• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

lift to raise spyder

Gordy

RT-S PE#0060
I dont have a lot of room where I park my spyder so went ahead and built a lift that dousnt have to be moved .I just park over it.Have to drive on two planks to get clearance because spyder is so low but it works very well.I just have to push a button to lift, make sure that stand are in place before working under ride
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5892.jpg
    IMG_5892.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 194
  • IMG_5893.jpg
    IMG_5893.jpg
    72.3 KB · Views: 191
  • IMG_5894.jpg
    IMG_5894.jpg
    68.3 KB · Views: 214
  • IMG_5895.jpg
    IMG_5895.jpg
    70 KB · Views: 233
Well done...

looks like it works well and a fairly simple build. congrats..:2thumbs: once you get the finishing touches...paint and some safety features you will have a winner....:clap:
 
I tried it originally with a 2500 lb winch but it just barely lifted the spyder but stopped at a yard sale one day and got a 3500 lb for $20.00 and it lifts no problem all the parts cost me less than $100.00 and I do my own welding
 
What a great idea! That's actually less intrusive than a hydraulically operated lift for being able to work on the underside. If you took two more pieces of the square tubing and mounted them to the outside of the rear arms, you could brace them against the rear floor cross-member and not need safety stands. In the event your cable failed, they would prevent a fall.
 
That looks like a really great setup! One thing, well two, that I want to suggest. The first would be to use a thimble where the wire rope goes through the eye of the hook. A thimble will protect the strands of the wire rope from being crushed by the sharp bend made in the eye.

The other is to never saddle a dead horse! It's kind of hard to tell on my Kindle but it looks like you have the Crosby clips on backwards. From what I can see it looks like the u-bolt is over the working end of the rope instead of on the dead end. When properly torqued the u-bolt digs into the strands of the wire rope to prevent slipping. But doing this also causes damage to the rope which is why it's very important to have the saddle on the working end.

You also should be sure to use forged clips, not the cheap malleable ones from the hardware store. I would consider the safe lifting and lowering of my Spyder to qualify as a critical use. Turnback length and correct placement of the clips is important as well.

You could probably get the info you need by going to www.thecrosbygroup.com. If not, ask questions and I will do my best to help you. Again, I think you have got a winning design there and I may very well use it to make one of my own! I would hate to see it fail and hurt you or your Spyder!
 
Another thought, make 3 "boxes" the max height of the lift - 1" and when you have it at the max put the "boxes" under the wheels and lower the lift to get it out of your way, then you have total access to anything you need to do under the bike.
 
Very cool!

Always amazes me how each one of us has been given "Talents' by our Creator. Amazing---one skill I wish I had at times. I am mechanically inclined and can do technology among other things but sadly construction is not my forte' or carpentry what ever wording you want to apply here. My grandfather could do what you did here, he was that kind of a man. Was able to take old dishwasher motors for instance and make different machines out of it

So my hat is off to you and all of you Spyder Ryders who got the talent! You are blessed and the rest of us are inspired and in awe.

Thanks for sharing your creativity and ingenuity. ;)
 
What are the dimensions?
I used 4 11/2 inch by 3/16 angle iron 6 feet long for frame the lift arms are i inch square tubing thick wall 18 inches long 3/8 holes drilled 3/8 of an inch from ends. saddle is 14 inches wide by 12 inches long.the one thing I would do different is the upper frame should be on the outside and not the inside as there shoud be a cross brace between the rear lift arms and this prevented me from doing this will make a new saddle as soon as I have time and weld in cross brace picture will show brackets on inside.Good luck if you make one it works very good ps mount for winch would depend on winch
 
Back
Top