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Let the exhaust wrap job begin

frank3

frank3

RT-S PE#0180
Cold here so I thought today would be a good time to start on the task of wrapping the exhaust on my RT. I've spent most of the day removing the front cylinder (left Side) header pipe. This is a BIG job. Couple of tips for those of you planning the same job. I spent over an hour trying to remove the pipe after everything was removed and loose. I was forced to remove the drive belt in order to have enough room to "move the pipe forward, rotate and remove under the left side lateral frame support". Got to tell you, there's not enough room with out having the drive belt out of the way. Other problem I ran into was having easy access to the nuts holding the header to the engine. I'm 6'-5, 230 lbs. with hands to match. Wanted to remove the screen and plastic from in front of the oil cooler radiator but found BRP didn't design this part to be removed without removing the front ot back engine support rod (the same rod that was added to the RS for 2011. Removing this rod is NOT an easy task but I got it out and removed the rod. Enough for today. I'm planning to take pictures of the process and post them along with any other unplanned removals I encounter along the way. STAY TUNED:coffee:
 
Sounds like a lot of work. My son and I wrapped the exhaust on my RT. We left the pipes on the machine. It took us two sessions of about 4 hours each and we definitely needed four hands. We used hot glue and stainless steel hose clamps to hold the start of the wrap.

Good luck with your venture.
 
Ordered my ehaust wrap last tues. Not sure I am going to do the start of the header pipe but I am going to remove the cat. since it produces so much heat. I also ordered 8- 90 degree mandrel bent pipe sections to make my custom cat. pybass, wont need 8 but gives me extra to play with. I plan to wrap the section where it drops down to the cat. then back to the muffler flange at first and see if i get what I am looking for. If I do not I will go as far as you guys. All of this attached to my custom Muzzy exhaust and I will be a happy camper. I know some of you will say I wont gain any performance from removing the cat. infact if I loose to much backpreasure I could lose a little on low end, not sure. All I know is some of the heat on my feet has to go at any cost. I would love to see pics of all the stuff you guys do and I will do the same. Most of all I want to know how much it helped the heat.
 
Exhaust wrap UPDATE!!!! Well, have all the parts off and have now decided to have it ceramic coated thinking, aS someone said "it's all off, why not ceramic coat it". I reason that if I'm not happy with that, I can always go back and wrap over the ceramic. Cost was $250.00 and included the header pipes, the catalytic converter and the two alum. heat sheilds on the front and back end of the muffler. Wanted these covers coated in a dark grey like the color of carbon fiber. I'm not at all a fan of all the aluminum casting on the RT and while I've got it apart, I've also removed the aluminum casting on either side along with the foot rests, pegs and brake peddle to have them "water paint transfer" coated to look like carbon fiber. I also took the windshiel support (aluminum) baracket and it's arms off to have the same carbon fiber look applied. Only thing left on Rt that looks like aluminum is the handle bar and I may do that later this winter IF I can talk myself into removing it and all the associated parts. STAY TUNED.
 
Not sure what to do with the rear belt sprocket/pulley yet but I hear that 2011 chrome accessory package may include one of these in chrome. I HATE THE ALUMINUM ON THIS THING. MISSION IS TO GET RIDE OF IT ALL
 
I guess I am not alone then. I also just got done taking all my aluminum looking parts off to have them powder coated satin black. Going to do the exhaust wrap, belt tensioner mod, oil change, cat. bypass...............etc. While I have it apart, oh ya and the highway pegs. If you never hear from me again its because my wife shot me, lol. :yikes: :pray: :dontknow:. Here is where I am now. I will post pics when all done.
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Stripperking, Curious about how YOU removed the aluminum on the right side. I unbolted the master cyl and peddle bracket and was able to pull the master cyl far enough forward to clear the aluminum peice. How did you do it?
 
I know I answered your email earlier but if you have your muffler bolted on you may not have the room to slide it back. I do not have that big thing on mine so not sure. You may have to unbolt your muffler from the cat. I was looking at mine wondering why you would have problems and that came to mind. May not have anything to do with it though.
 
Stripperking said:
I know I answered your email earlier but if you have your muffler bolted on you may not have the room to slide it back. I do not have that big thing on mine so not sure. You may have to unbolt your muffler from the cat. I was looking at mine wondering why you would have problems and that came to mind. May not have anything to do with it though.
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It wasn't my muffler that was in the way. The rear header pipe (the one exiting to the right side of the unit) will not allow me to push the brake cyl far enough forward to mount the foot rest support peice of aluminum because the aluminum peice has a large hole in it where the master cyl. bolts up to along with the lateral frame support and the frame cross member peice. Really a bit-h to move the master cyl. around much without disconnecting it because of the rubber hoses from the resevoir and the ridgid steel tubing but I DID get it done when I removed the aluminum foot rest support member. I'm not very good at all about posting pictures because mine never are forematted correctly and (old man that I am) I'm at a loss as to how to do it. Lamont told me one time and I was able to do it then but have forgot. When you're as old as I am, you have to forget something in order to learn anything new. I tell everyone "I really know a lot but can't remember much of it. :roflblack:Anyway, guess I'll do the same procedure to get it back together when the parts are returned from the painter. MEANWHILE, I'll try to learn AGAIN, how to reformat photos and post them so I can let you see what I'm talking about and show off my new hardware when it's all done. STAY TUNED FOLKS
 
frank3 said:
I'm not very good at all about posting pictures because mine never are forematted correctly and (old man that I am) I'm at a loss as to how to do it. Lamont told me one time and I was able to do it then but have forgot. When you're as old as I am, you have to forget something in order to learn anything new. I tell everyone "I really know a lot but can't remember much of it. :roflblack:Anyway, guess I'll do the same procedure to get it back together when the parts are returned from the painter. MEANWHILE, I'll try to learn AGAIN, how to reformat photos and post them so I can let you see what I'm talking about and show off my new hardware when it's all done. STAY TUNED FOLKS
Click to expand...
How to videos on using this board
 
Finally got all my aluminum looking peices off for the powder coaters today. Just a warning for anyone who wants to remove their handle bar ass`y. It is a major job and will take some time and patience. I did not use any manual or anything else but I would use one if you have it. It may save some time. It will be worth it to get reid of all the silver parts. :thumbup: More pics to come for anyone thinking of doing this.
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Looking at all the tools, nuts and bolts on the floor, thought someone had taken a picture of mine. Got mine back together but in process, my floor looked exaxtly like yours.
Great looking wrap job. Keep up the good work. You inspire us all to do more.
I have resolved to get this DA--ED handle bar off yet.
 
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