Looking to put 3-4 smaller LED lighting strips (aftermarket 2 wire design) under my can am. Question for the group, should i put a rocker switch and go direct to the battery or how would i go to the fuse box? I want to do this the right way. These are small inexpensive LED strips with the red/black leads that would be put together.
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LED lighting installation question - 2010 Roadster RS
- Thread starter marcs0809
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
YOUR PLAN
I would do the switch thing ......... if you pass thru Vermont ( at night ) you could very likely get a TICKET for having them on ...... Vermont motor veh. regs. consider them as .... decorations .... and the newer breed of cops are ticket crazy...... if you have a switch, they would / might let you off with a warning ....jmho .... Mike :thumbup:
I would do the switch thing ......... if you pass thru Vermont ( at night ) you could very likely get a TICKET for having them on ...... Vermont motor veh. regs. consider them as .... decorations .... and the newer breed of cops are ticket crazy...... if you have a switch, they would / might let you off with a warning ....jmho .... Mike :thumbup:
JerryB
New member
Hi marcs0809,
Re: Looking to put 3-4 smaller LED lighting strips (aftermarket 2 wire design) under my can am.
A timely question as I just wired in an additional taillite; 3-wire design. I did this because IMO the GS does not have enough lighting/brake lighting.
Here is the lite mounted, it is mounted on the plastic cover just above the rear tire:
I have a drawing of the mount that I made; if anyone wants a copy of the drawing, just drop a line to:
jerrybaumchen(at)gmail(dot)com
The mount is a 2-piece design with a plate as ( somewhat ) shown to hold the tail lite & another piece on the other side of the plastic to re-inforce it, ala as a large 2-hole washer.
I bought the lite from Value Accessories: http://store.valueaccessories.net/
This is it:
I came off the the battery terminals with new leads; one hot leg & one ground leg. I then used two relays; one for the running light & one for the brake light. I used 20 Amp Micro Relays; look here: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Relays/relays.html
Here they are:
Last year I installed a Magic Brake Strobe to my GS. I bought it from: https://www.customdynamics.com/magic-strobes-brake-light-flasher-for-can-am-spyder-rs
I built a seperate wiring harness & only had to tap into the brake lite & the running lite on one side to get everything working as a single unit. Now, both brake/running lites & the 3rd brake/running lite function as a single unit.
I you would like any more info, just drop me an email.
Jerry Baumchen
Re: Looking to put 3-4 smaller LED lighting strips (aftermarket 2 wire design) under my can am.
A timely question as I just wired in an additional taillite; 3-wire design. I did this because IMO the GS does not have enough lighting/brake lighting.
Here is the lite mounted, it is mounted on the plastic cover just above the rear tire:
I have a drawing of the mount that I made; if anyone wants a copy of the drawing, just drop a line to:
jerrybaumchen(at)gmail(dot)com
The mount is a 2-piece design with a plate as ( somewhat ) shown to hold the tail lite & another piece on the other side of the plastic to re-inforce it, ala as a large 2-hole washer.
I bought the lite from Value Accessories: http://store.valueaccessories.net/
This is it:
I came off the the battery terminals with new leads; one hot leg & one ground leg. I then used two relays; one for the running light & one for the brake light. I used 20 Amp Micro Relays; look here: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Relays/relays.html
Here they are:
Last year I installed a Magic Brake Strobe to my GS. I bought it from: https://www.customdynamics.com/magic-strobes-brake-light-flasher-for-can-am-spyder-rs
I built a seperate wiring harness & only had to tap into the brake lite & the running lite on one side to get everything working as a single unit. Now, both brake/running lites & the 3rd brake/running lite function as a single unit.
I you would like any more info, just drop me an email.
Jerry Baumchen
Fuse block & switch
I ran three leads off the accessory switched & accessory unswitched fuses in the fuse block.
remove the fuseblock & pc connection cover. And the left side cover over the engine pod. I ran a two ft lead off each with covered female bullet at the end. Using 3M pinch on splice I taped in each lead. Use the cover as your guide, the wires are in place, just need fuses to be hot. I used 5amp, LEDs won't draw much power. I then sliced in two more pinch splices off the original. All three at different lengths, electrical tape, zip tied to the side rail. Male bullet lead went up to a switch mounted in the largest vent hole left side next to the instruments. On the switched side I split power to 2 leads (front-back), which lead to two power boards. Each board has 16 connections, each 2 are connected. Counting across the top, I set 1-4 as power, 5-8 ground. Power from switch ran to 1-4, then + light strips connected to the screws below. The negative were connected and then the ground went to the battery. The back section negative spliced in under rear inner fender, making one connection to battery lead necessary. Front board lives under the dash, the rear under the rear inner fender. No pictures, the GS was traded in Tuesday.
Switched lead #1 went to GPS, #2 to CB radio & 3 left open. Unswitched 2&3 were open.
I ran three leads off the accessory switched & accessory unswitched fuses in the fuse block.
remove the fuseblock & pc connection cover. And the left side cover over the engine pod. I ran a two ft lead off each with covered female bullet at the end. Using 3M pinch on splice I taped in each lead. Use the cover as your guide, the wires are in place, just need fuses to be hot. I used 5amp, LEDs won't draw much power. I then sliced in two more pinch splices off the original. All three at different lengths, electrical tape, zip tied to the side rail. Male bullet lead went up to a switch mounted in the largest vent hole left side next to the instruments. On the switched side I split power to 2 leads (front-back), which lead to two power boards. Each board has 16 connections, each 2 are connected. Counting across the top, I set 1-4 as power, 5-8 ground. Power from switch ran to 1-4, then + light strips connected to the screws below. The negative were connected and then the ground went to the battery. The back section negative spliced in under rear inner fender, making one connection to battery lead necessary. Front board lives under the dash, the rear under the rear inner fender. No pictures, the GS was traded in Tuesday.
Switched lead #1 went to GPS, #2 to CB radio & 3 left open. Unswitched 2&3 were open.
