• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Laser Alingnment

Silly Question? Aren't the bikes aligned at the factory? Or are these problems after a few thousand miles?:doorag: or hitting a bunch of potholes etc.?
 
In South Carolina

This is supposed to happen next May 2-10 so we have time to get things straight. I have given Larry Hammond your number and he said he would try to set things up. It is about 3-4 hours to Landrum. I might just take a ride up there and get it done if he can do it.

Magdave Mike will be in Landrum from Oct 6th to Oct 13th so really the week of Oct 7th e mail me if you want this to happen [email protected]

 
Silly Question? Aren't the bikes aligned at the factory? Or are these problems after a few thousand miles?:doorag: or hitting a bunch of potholes etc.?

Lamont knows far more than me about the factory procedures...it is my understanding that some come out aligned perfect but most are mis -aligned...The pot holes have nothing to do with factory mis - alignment,,,they are wrong when they are delivered to the dealer from the factory

 
Reset Technical Question after Alignment

Hi all-

I have been following this thread for a couple of days. I am a noob to the Spyder but pretty experienced in sports cars, planes, etc. Pretty much anything that you throw money at for no good reason.

This system looks like a real interesting system and very precise. I read the service manual and the dealer alignment process is a night mare. The service manual recommends resetting the steering angle sensor and torque as has been discussed. I think the alignment is about as important a thing as it possibly be and i want it.

My question is why does the SA sensor need to be zeroed again? I can see it with the dealer process - bike jacked up - klugey attachments etc. But why for a laser system that sits on the ground? If the Pittman arm is locked and/or it and the handlebars are somehow locked/marked to keep that constant ( keep the handlebars and the rest of the steering totally immobile) why would moving just the wheels via the tie rods ends change sensor calibration? I cannot see from service manual exactly where the sensor reads the info but it must be on the pittman arm or steering shaft somewhere. Watching Mike's demo he appears to put the steering back exactly where it was by keeping one target side as a 'constant zero point' to return the bars to.

Someone please give me a clue here. Turn on the light bulb for me please. :helpsmilie:

Thanks!

Regards,
 
Zerrowing with RUDS

Hi all-

I have been following this thread for a couple of days. I am a noob to the Spyder but pretty experienced in sports cars, planes, etc. Pretty much anything that you throw money at for no good reason.

This system looks like a real interesting system and very precise. I read the service manual and the dealer alignment process is a night mare. The service manual recommends resetting the steering angle sensor and torque as has been discussed. I think the alignment is about as important a thing as it possibly be and i want it.

My question is why does the SA sensor need to be zeroed again? I can see it with the dealer process - bike jacked up - klugey attachments etc. But why for a laser system that sits on the ground? If the Pittman arm is locked and/or it and the handlebars are somehow locked/marked to keep that constant ( keep the handlebars and the rest of the steering totally immobile) why would moving just the wheels via the tie rods ends change sensor calibration? I cannot see from service manual exactly where the sensor reads the info but it must be on the pittman arm or steering shaft somewhere. Watching Mike's demo he appears to put the steering back exactly where it was by keeping one target side as a 'constant zero point' to return the bars to.

Someone please give me a clue here. Turn on the light bulb for me please. :helpsmilie:

Thanks!

Regards,

Dangme

In my humble opinion and understanding you do NOT want to Secure or Immobilize the handle bars. They need to be free while adjusting the target points. As you adjust one side the other side will move. This is why Mike (in the video) is always referring to and adjusting the handlebars back to "zero" on the targets.

After the lasers are set up on the front wheels then locating the rear target (set to specifications which aligns your Roadster from the rear wheel giving you all 3 wheels aligned together) you move to the front to see where your targets are. If there is going to be any problems with the BUDS (steering center) it is because the front wheels are out (combined figure) of 4 inches or 4% either toe in or toe out. By what I have read and heard here in SL then there could be a problem with BUDS?

If after the LASER ALIGNMENT has been completed and you have test driven your Roadster 15 or 20 minutes with no problems, you may never have a problem.

Just for your own peace of mind, the next time you take your Roadster in for a check-up have it zeroed at the dealer. Maybe your LASER ALIGNMENT guy will have the BUDS handy in his computer and will check for you at the time of alignment.

Here again, the story I am getting BUDS will be available to all LASER ALIGNMENT TECHNITIONS very soon.

"RYDE ON" in safety and comfort with your new alignment.

Dan
 
Light bulb

Hi all-

I have been following this thread for a couple of days. I am a noob to the Spyder but pretty experienced in sports cars, planes, etc. Pretty much anything that you throw money at for no good reason.

This system looks like a real interesting system and very precise. I read the service manual and the dealer alignment process is a night mare. The service manual recommends resetting the steering angle sensor and torque as has been discussed. I think the alignment is about as important a thing as it possibly be and i want it.

My question is why does the SA sensor need to be zeroed again? I can see it with the dealer process - bike jacked up - klugey attachments etc. But why for a laser system that sits on the ground? If the Pittman arm is locked and/or it and the handlebars are somehow locked/marked to keep that constant ( keep the handlebars and the rest of the steering totally immobile) why would moving just the wheels via the tie rods ends change sensor calibration? I cannot see from service manual exactly where the sensor reads the info but it must be on the pittman arm or steering shaft somewhere. Watching Mike's demo he appears to put the steering back exactly where it was by keeping one target side as a 'constant zero point' to return the bars to.

Someone please give me a clue here. Turn on the light bulb for me please. :helpsmilie:

Thanks!

Regards,

Dangme55


Lamont or Nancys toy probably could answer this better (they are more familiar with the factory settings)


I believe 2 sensors are on the steering shaft. The only changes me make doing a laser alignment is the adjusting the tie rods. The sensors must detect the amount of “pressure or load” on the tie rods. At the factory a TOE OUT setting puts pressure on the tie rods. Once a ROLO technician detects a toe out situation (which is NOT a good thing) and adjusts the tie rods it must RELAX that pressure. Within driving the newly aligned Spyder 20 miles or so, the sensors think something is wrong because the “tie rod” pressure is gone. That is my best guess at this point .
 

Dangme

In my humble opinion and understanding you do NOT want to Secure or Immobilize the handle bars. They need to be free while adjusting the target points. As you adjust one side the other side will move. This is why Mike (in the video) is always referring to and adjusting the handlebars back to "zero" on the targets.

After the lasers are set up on the front wheels then locating the rear target (set to specifications which aligns your Roadster from the rear wheel giving you all 3 wheels aligned together) you move to the front to see where your targets are. If there is going to be any problems with the BUDS (steering center) it is because the front wheels are out (combined figure) of 4 inches or 4% either toe in or toe out. By what I have read and heard here in SL then there could be a problem with BUDS?

If after the LASER ALIGNMENT has been completed and you have test driven your Roadster 15 or 20 minutes with no problems, you may never have a problem.

Just for your own peace of mind, the next time you take your Roadster in for a check-up have it zeroed at the dealer. Maybe your LASER ALIGNMENT guy will have the BUDS handy in his computer and will check for you at the time of alignment.

Here again, the story I am getting BUDS will be available to all LASER ALIGNMENT TECHNITIONS very soon.

"RYDE ON" in safety and comfort with your new alignment.

Dan



Nice explanation :thumbup:


It would be cool if each ROLO technician can reset the sensors and make a 100% adjustment rather than a 99% adjustment. :)
 
Lazer alighnment Profile Powersports, N.H.

had my RTS done today, very satisfied. the people at Profile are top notch and really care about the customer, a couple of hours after I left their shop they called me, and made me aware of the tire pressure in the front tires was set at 18 lbs I run car tires on the front and have been running 25 lbs "according to the tire reps recommendation" for those who do not know tire pressure is established so that you will have max contact patch at operating speed ( which for me is 200mph):joke:
 
invisible bra

Wow


lol[/QUOTEbut

Actually not about the speed. I noticed you did a diy invisible bra. I bought one for my Yvette from clear defender on eBay. I asked them about a precut for the spyder. If ever anything needed one it is the spyder.
They said a precut was not available but they had it in bulk.

The bulk comes in all kinds of sizes. Can you share the sizes you bought - materials list and how you went about pieceing it together?

Any hints much appreciated.
 
BUDS

Nice explanation :thumbup:


It would be cool if each ROLO technician can reset the sensors and make a 100% adjustment rather than a 99% adjustment. :)


Snoopy

Never Fear
RED BARON IS HERE!! :yes::yes:

What I have read here is ROLO is working on that idea. With luck the ROLO team will have
BUDS SOON :pray::pray:

No worries anyway, there have only been 2 Roadsters that have thrown Limp Mode so far!! Out of over 150? LASER ALIGHMENT done!! You figure that out... maybe 0.75% chance of it happening?

This can also be evaluated before the
LASER ALIGNMENT is performed by checking the amount of uneven wear on the front tires in relation the number of miles on the tires. Severe wear has a stronger chance of throwing Limp Mode than slight uneven wear.
 
Last edited:
Wow


lol[/QUOTEbut

Actually not about the speed. I noticed you did a diy invisible bra. I bought one for my Yvette from clear defender on eBay. I asked them about a precut for the spyder. If ever anything needed one it is the spyder.
They said a precut was not available but they had it in bulk.

The bulk comes in all kinds of sizes. Can you share the sizes you bought - materials list and how you went about pieceing it together?

Any hints much appreciated.
I do not know what you mean by an invisible bra if you are talking about the vinyl covering the windshield bracket it is just some vinyl I got from a sign shop and I cut it from a tracing of the wind shield support the last time I cleaned behind it 18 months ago
 
Wow


lol[/QUOTEbut

Actually not about the speed. I noticed you did a diy invisible bra. I bought one for my Yvette from clear defender on eBay. I asked them about a precut for the spyder. If ever anything needed one it is the spyder.
They said a precut was not available but they had it in bulk.

The bulk comes in all kinds of sizes. Can you share the sizes you bought - materials list and how you went about pieceing it together?

Any hints much appreciated.

Post number 43 in this thread explains my clear bra.:thumbup:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?56635-New-to-the-ST-S-forums/page2


Actually I sprayed it a little thin I think and am going to redo it thicker.

I've asked our local clear bra rep about doing it, but he also would have to do it from scratch. I do NOT want to be the guinea pig on that one. Worse thing is he would be cutting directly on my pain in areas and I definitely don't want that.

.
 
Thanks! - Same Company different product

Post number 43 in this thread explains my clear bra.:thumbup:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?56635-New-to-the-ST-S-forums/page2


Actually I sprayed it a little thin I think and am going to redo it thicker.

I've asked our local clear bra rep about doing it, but he also would have to do it from scratch. I do NOT want to be the guinea pig on that one. Worse thing is he would be cutting directly on my pain in areas and I definitely don't want that.

.

Thanks - I looked at the post. I didn't realize the spray product existed. I will have to research it in comparison with the 3M clear film they make for the same purpose. Both are 3M products - wonder what the delta in protection is? I would think film should be more durable/protective I think but it is a booger-bear to make a flat sheet conform to a curved surface. :( Anyone who has ever tried to tint a back window is aware of that.

thanks for the info - off to do what I do best - research i never DO anything I just research LOL just kidding Bajaron bar goes on this weekend - if I get the chance. this weekend is the RV's turn - having toys is like having mistresses - very demanding - but what fun! :)
 
had my RTS done today, very satisfied. the people at Profile are top notch and really care about the customer, a couple of hours after I left their shop they called me, and made me aware of the tire pressure in the front tires was set at 18 lbs I run car tires on the front and have been running 25 lbs "according to the tire reps recommendation" for those who do not know tire pressure is established so that you will have max contact patch at operating speed ( which for me is 200mph):joke:

John,

What brand and size of tires are you running?

JT
 
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