Laser alignments heads up

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

YELLING

Wow





I MEAN WOW :roflblack:

....OMG ...wait untill gypsy 100 see's this ! ! ! :gaah: :lecturef_smilie:...are you going to get "spanked " :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: ....Mike :clap:

 

[Cleg]

I got the chance to hangout with Norm and Mike from Rolo while in Lake George and watch them do their magic. I bought the kit but I haven't had a chance to use it yet and there were some things I still wasn't clear on. Now that I've seen it done the things that I wasn't sure why they were doing it that way makes sense to me. If you don't have BUDS you need the front target to give you a fixed point to refer back to when making adjustments. Basically if you're adjusting the right side you make sure your fixed point is the left side. As you adjust the right side the laser will move on the left so you always move the laser back to the fixed point to make sure the reading on the right is correct.

I was able to check several units they corrected the alinement with BUDS and some of the units were right on the edge of throwing a code. The first one I checked was 3.5 degrees off of center, at 4.0 it goes into limp mode. The next one I checked was 2.8 degrees off center and the rest were about the same. I only checked one that was perfect. I reset the steering angle sensor on all of them so they will be fine. I said this to say if you are having this done make sure you have this hooked up to BUDS and have the steering angle sensor reset to zero or you may have problems down the road if your Spyder was far off to start with.

:bowdown:Not sure what my numbers were on the steering angle, but Lamont, after you 'zeroed' it out, I certainly felt that the ryde was even better than when Norm did the alignment a few weeks prior to Syderquest. That in and of itself was certainly worth the cost. Thanks to Norm and the laser system and to Lamont for the follow up attention,,,Ryde on my friends ryde on....:yes:

 

[FLAlaserman]

ROLO ALIGN at Seminole with Chucks RT

I know it wasn't because someone was on it. (although they did put someone on it who was quite heavy) and watched the difference. If I recall correctly, and Mike if you read this please chime in, they calculated or did some factoring of it in.


Chris

Afternoon Chris, the only internet is at the shop so I am just checking in.

When we first started doing Spyder aligns we where doing them with the rider ON...that has all changed , as we have now fine tuned the process. All aligns are now done UN LOADED but we use percise dimensions/measurements to start with.
This is our baseline ...and we tweak from there to obtain the end results we want. We will be asking you weight of driver, are you a aggressive driver etc. and why does that matter you say ? As the rider steps on the bike it will take TOE OUT of the Spyder so we have to make sure the end result is always enough toe in for a stable ride...BUT not too much or tire wear will occur. An aggressive driver: when they pound the Spyder into the corners it also takes TOE OUT...if we do not fine tune enough and give you the proper Toe IN...you will get TOE OUT which is NOT a good thing. The wobble that you feel is toe out and toe out is what destroys tires.

Remember the final adjustment is always toe in , never toe out

 

[MouthPiece]

Afternoon Chris, the only internet is at the shop so I am just checking in.

When we first started doing Spyder aligns we where doing them with the rider ON...that has all changed , as we have now fine tuned the process. All aligns are now done UN LOADED but we use percise dimensions/measurements to start with.
This is our baseline ...and we tweak from there to obtain the end results we want. We will be asking you weight of driver, are you a aggressive driver etc. and why does that matter you say ? As the rider steps on the bike it will take TOE OUT of the Spyder so we have to make sure the end result is always enough toe in for a stable ride...BUT not too much or tire wear will occur. An aggressive driver: when they pound the Spyder into the corners it also takes TOE OUT...if we do not fine tune enough and give you the proper Toe IN...you will get TOE OUT which is NOT a good thing. The wobble that you feel is toe out and toe out is what destroys tires.

Remember the final adjustment is always toe in , never toe out

And that is exactly what ya'll did and asked. You asked what type of riding style I had. Thanks again for the great alignment.

​Chris

 

[SNOOPY]

Afternoon Chris, the only internet is at the shop so I am just checking in.

When we first started doing Spyder aligns we where doing them with the rider ON...that has all changed , as we have now fine tuned the process. All aligns are now done UN LOADED but we use percise dimensions/measurements to start with.
This is our baseline ...and we tweak from there to obtain the end results we want. We will be asking you weight of driver, are you a aggressive driver etc. and why does that matter you say ? As the rider steps on the bike it will take TOE OUT of the Spyder so we have to make sure the end result is always enough toe in for a stable ride...BUT not too much or tire wear will occur. An aggressive driver: when they pound the Spyder into the corners it also takes TOE OUT...if we do not fine tune enough and give you the proper Toe IN...you will get TOE OUT which is NOT a good thing. The wobble that you feel is toe out and toe out is what destroys tires.

Remember the final adjustment is always toe in , never toe out

God info.

I take it that info is shared w/ each of your dealers?

.