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Laser alignment

toolie

New member
I know there’s a spyder rally in Kerrville but I cant make it. My question is about Woods cycle in New Braunfels, or Coyote Powersports in Boerne Texas.
I need an alignment and was looking for any pro’s or con’s of your experience at either one.
Thank you in advance
 
What do you guys/gals think of this laser alignment tool? It only checks toe alignment, but isn't that all you need with the spyder? My thought is as long as your drive belt is properly set the back wheel should be square/aligned with the frame. Hence there would not be a need to do measurements off the back wheel with this alignment system. At any rate it seems to be an interesting tool for not much money. Checkout their video.

http://www.trackace.co.uk/

By the way I see these for sale on ebay.
 
Ms SpyderAnn01,
A question for you or Mr. CptJAM concerning how the rear plays into the thrust alignment. As we know, the belt on pulley alignment trumps the wheel to frame alignment, but help me finish the thought I had while watching my Spyder being laser aligned.
During the alignment, I noticed that the rear measurement boards were put a specific distance outboard on each side at the rear, as measured from the rearmost portion of the back rim. Will that measurement from the rear of the rim cause the thrust angle to be accounted for, even if the Spyder is crabbing slightly because the wheel isn't exactly lined up in the frame?
 
This is what I found when I googled Thrust Angle:

On a solid rear axle vehicle, a thrust angle alignment allows the technician to confirm that all four wheels are "square" with each other. Thrust angle alignments also identify vehicles that would "dog track" going down the road with the rear end offset from the front. If the thrust angle isn't zero on many solid rear axle vehicles, a trip to a frame straightening shop is required to return the rear axle to its original location.

With that said, my guess is if your frame isn't damaged and your rear wheel is tracking straight forward, thrust angle should not come into play.
 
Coyote has the equipment but does not do them.

Interesting! I suppose there is a reason for this?

Ms SpyderAnn01,
A question for you or Mr. CptJAM concerning how the rear plays into the thrust alignment. As we know, the belt on pulley alignment trumps the wheel to frame alignment, but help me finish the thought I had while watching my Spyder being laser aligned.
During the alignment, I noticed that the rear measurement boards were put a specific distance outboard on each side at the rear, as measured from the rearmost portion of the back rim. Will that measurement from the rear of the rim cause the thrust angle to be accounted for, even if the Spyder is crabbing slightly because the wheel isn't exactly lined up in the frame?

I am sure SpyderAnn will give you a better answer. But you are on the right track. The laser alignment system takes the frame out of the equation. What you are trying to accomplish is getting all 3 wheels going in the exact same direction as if the frame did not exist. Indeed, your Spyder might even crab a bit. But only because the frame is not perfectly lined up with the rear wheel. The rear wheel being the basis for front wheel alignment. However, I would be surprised if it was enough for anyone to every notice.
 
Ms SpyderAnn01,
A question for you or Mr. CptJAM concerning how the rear plays into the thrust alignment. As we know, the belt on pulley alignment trumps the wheel to frame alignment, but help me finish the thought I had while watching my Spyder being laser aligned.
During the alignment, I noticed that the rear measurement boards were put a specific distance outboard on each side at the rear, as measured from the rearmost portion of the back rim. Will that measurement from the rear of the rim cause the thrust angle to be accounted for, even if the Spyder is crabbing slightly because the wheel isn't exactly lined up in the frame?
Ok, I’ll try to answer:
Step 1, check tire pressure. All three wheels.
Step 2, check rear wheel for true by spinning 10 revolutions forward and backwards. If the wheel is true and straight, the belt will not migrate. If square, move to the front wheels. The lasers allow us to see toe in or out, and then check the delta between the front and back. If all is within spec, we lock everything down, and reset the BUDS. IDK how anyone else does it, but Mike Losure Gave his instructions to do it like this. He invented the system. In 1500 alignments, seems to work properly!
Cheers! Joe
 
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If you cannot make it to the rally in Kerrville this weekend, we can do your alignment in Houston. Let me know if we can be of any help.
 
Here is the definition of a delta angle - It is the measurement in degrees where two straight lines, also known as tangents, intersect. If you don't mind cptjam, can you explain this some more? I can understand if it were the delta angle between the tangents of the front wheels, but measuring the delta between the front and back I find interesting. Is it the angle between a projected centerline of the rear wheel and the tangent of the front wheels? If so, then you have 2 delta measurements and obviously they should be the same.
 
What do you guys/gals think of this laser alignment tool? It only checks toe alignment, but isn't that all you need with the spyder? My thought is as long as your drive belt is properly set the back wheel should be square/aligned with the frame. Hence there would not be a need to do measurements off the back wheel with this alignment system. At any rate it seems to be an interesting tool for not much money. Checkout their video.

http://www.trackace.co.uk/

By the way I see these for sale on ebay.

Totally agree - I bought my Spyder with a toe out of about 1 deg ( set by a CAN AM dealer!) once I had set to correct toe IN by myself the bike rides great.
 
Like I've said, if you want a good alignment go to someone with a lot of satisfied customers like Squared Away, Spyderpops, Lamonster, or others. Just because a dealership has the ROLO system doesn't mean they'll do a quality job. If you go in for an alignment, and leave with the bike still wandering, it may be something else, but I'd look strongly at the credibility of who did it. Like Mr cptjam said, 1500 and still going. I'll bet he knows stuff about Spyders that the factory doesn't. I had very good luck with Spyderpop in Arkansas.
 
Haikanko, can you share what the correct toe in is? From my calculations based on what was said in another post, the toe in should be approximately 48-50 minutes, less than 1 degree.
 
Haikanko, can you share what the correct toe in is? From my calculations based on what was said in another post, the toe in should be approximately 48-50 minutes, less than 1 degree.

The toe-in is slight. That is why ROLO measures out 6 feet from center. This greatly exaggerates the measurement (though not the angle) making it much easier to get the precise setting needed. This, plus using the rear wheel as the base line instead of the frame gives very good results.

The Spyder is very sensitive to front end alignment, tire pressures and suspension components. This is why it is so easy to get a great deal of improvement in handling, stability and control with better settings and components. With alignment on the Spyder, close is not good enough.

I also agree that just because a service has the ROLO system does not guarantee a quality job. If you do not know how to use the tools. Or, if you are not particular about accuracy, then you will not get a good result.

The good news is that once set, alignment seems to remain accurate for a very long time.
 
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