• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Kumho rear tire air pressure?

Underinflation can be just as bad....

I was gonna skip this thread completely but someone has to point out that with any maximum tire pressure there is a minimum. Although the minimum is not as clearly defined as the maximum is (listed right on the sidewall of the tire)...

This is from the Kuhmo website but you can find it on any tire manufacturers' site as well:

The importance of maintaining the proper air pressure cannot be overstated. Under-inflation can lead to excessive heat build-up and structural stress and can cause a tire to fail. Over-inflation can cause uneven tire wear in the center portion of the tread pattern and can also lead to vehicle handling problems.

Granted our rides are much lighter than cars but you can still get there....

Having had been in the business for 20+ years I have seen what that looks like firsthand..... :yikes: I would prefer to lose a few hundred miles of wear over having a failure due to heat buildup and structural failure.

The very first thing I noticed once switching to "car" tires and being able to run higher pressures without the tires getting all squirrely and actually losing traction like the Kendas would, was how EASILY the bike accelerated & rolled down the road.... Also, my DPS actually feels like DPS! Now mind you, I am not running car pressures but I am not in the "teens" of air pressure either....

To each their own, but I just had to say my piece.... ;-)
 
:clap: There's no doubt that running a bit more air in the tires will reduce rolling resistance... :thumbup:
But there will be the inevitable trade-offs as well.
The ride will probably seem harsher, and Traction MIGHT BE decreased...
So dance with the Devil of your choice. :dontknow:
 
Hypurone, I can only agree that you are absolutely right about there being a Minimum Pressure as well as a Maximum, & that it's a helluva lot harder to define than the Max. But I believe the most significant issue for us as Spyder Ryders is that many people are either sticking with the pressures required for the very lightly constructed Kendas & using it in the car tires they are now running, or that they are running car tires and continuing to run the pressures those tires needed under something waaayyy heavier!! That's why there is so much discussion about what pressures to run in car tires under a Spyder & why some of us are advocating that we should drop our tire pressures to something more suitable, but not too low as to be dangerous! ;)

At the risk of preaching to the converted &/or saying it all again (again!).... Car tires under a Spyder are carrying a far less load than these tires are capable of supporting at their labelled Maximum pressure, & just like similar sized tires under a small car rather than a big car require somewhat less pressure in them than they would under that big car in order to do the job properly & SAFELY, (a big car which might weigh in much closer to the tire's published max load & therefore need a pressure closer to the tire's max pressure) then so the same sized tire under an even lighter vehicle like our Spyders requires proportionally less pressure in it to do the job safely & properly than it does under the small car! :lecturef_smilie: And that is reflected on the pressure/load charts & tables that just about every tire manufacturer will have produced somewhere - except very few of them ever expected a vehicle load as light as our Spyders, so they generally don't go that low with their published pressure/load figures!! But if you ask them nicely, possibly after searching for & finding the right person in their organisation, you can sometimes get them to either show you the 'lower loading' figures or get them to do the calcs for you to provide the appropriate pressures for your Spyder's loads. And some have done that - the pressures Mike & I have been suggesting reflect that! :thumbup:

Not only that, but since people started running car tires on their car rims under their Spyders instead of running the very poor quality controlled Kendas, there have been literally millions of miles of On Road/Real World Testing conducted absolutely free of charge to BRP, (some of us have even meticulously checked pressure increases & tire temperature increases just to make sure that the pressures being used are not harming the tires & are within or at the recommended/optimum rates) There are 'tools' & 'rules' that I (& some others?) have previously mentioned that you can use to help make sure the pressures you are running are appropriate, & we've made suggestions about what pressures work & what doesn't. However, Pretty much all of this has confirmed that not only are car tires capable & safe under our Spyders but also, when run at the lower pressures that have been previously mentioned (without going to low) they will provide significantly better ride, traction, wear, handling, etc than the Kendas do, basically excelling at all those things that most Ryders are searching for from their Spyder tires & telling BRP the OE tires just don't do for them.... :dontknow:

Sure, some Ryders may go a tad lower than possibly ideal in order to benefit from the increased traction that allows, at the cost of a spongy ride & the less direct steering that results; while some may keep their pressures a little higher than ideal in order to maintain the firmer ride & more direct steering/less rolling resistance that higher pressures can deliver, at the cost of less traction & harsher ride; but that's their choice & hopefully most have now come to terms with the concept that running pressures that are too high in a car tire under their Spyder WILL compromise ride, wear, & traction, but (until the limits of traction are reached) the lesser rolling resistance will give you some pretty direct steering; while going too low WILL compromise wear & give you a spongy ride & sloppy directional control as well as markedly improved traction (at least until that 'hold the tire on the rim' level is reached/passed) & maybe the tire overheats. :dontknow: Hopefully....

That's why some of us here have been suggesting pressures that would allow people/Spyder Ryders to try for that 'ideal compromise' & aim for the best mix of all outcomes, but it is all a game of compromises -
* stick with the Kendas & their recommended pressures, the compromise is that you'll hafta accept crappy performance, wear, handling, etc (noting that experience has show these tires are sooo poorly constructed that varying pressures makes NO difference at all & some are so badly made that you can't avoid the vibration, wobbles, crappy traction, or sloppy steering they provide);
* fit car tires & run car pressures, & the compromise is that while you'll get really direct steering you also get a pretty harsh ride, accelerated centre of tread wear, & poor traction, especially in the wet;
* fit car tires & run the pressures some of us have been suggesting, & the compromise is that you'll get pretty good steering response (but not the overly direct response offered by higher pressures), you'll get a great ride (but not too soft & spongy, & not to harsh & firm), & very even wear with reasonable if not long tire life as well as great traction; or
I suppose you could also choose to...
* fit car tires & run pressures that are really too low & run into the tire life & safety issues hypurone mentioned..... but I don't know why you'd choose to do that, unless maybe you think choosing tires & pressures is sorta like living in Goldilock's land! :D :roflblack:

Sorry about the epic (again!) but it's not a straightforward & simple subject, nor is it easy to discuss when you have such a wide ranging audience, altho there are a few points that I hope are now clear to those who weren't previously sure! :thumbup:
 
....After about an hour of driving the fronts read 16# and the rear reads 23#(per the FOBO). So the fronts rose about 1# and the rear rose about 3#.
I can drop the cold pressure on the rear to maybe 18# or 19# and see if I reach the 4psi but I'm not sure I could reach the 4psi rule on the fronts without going quite a bit lower than 15#. From everything I have read 15# seems to be a good number.

Thoughts on this? Thanks Wayne

Wayne, the 4psi rule is a 'rule of thumb' aimed at helping you consistently determine the optimum pressure for your tires under varying loads & conditions. It's not something you hafta slavisly or mindlessly adhere to, it's a repeatable & relatively easy to use guide aimed at helping you get the best (your best) from your tires & vehicle, & to help you make informed (more informed? better informed?) decisions about what pressures you might choose to run in your tires. ;)

Broadly speaking, higher pressures than it suggests will come at a cost in traction & tire life but likely give you more direct steering & firmer ride (at least until you get OTT too high!) & lower pressures than it suggests will come at a cost in fuel economy & handling but likely give you more traction & 'flotation' on poor surfaces.... and YOU get to decide which way you go, or even IF you go either way!! :2thumbs:

That said, the front end of our Spyders really don't carry a great load, & if the tires you are running provide YOU with 'acceptable to you' adhesion & steering response at 15psi, then I'd suggest you stick with that pressure, altho it might pay to add a psi or maybe even two if you are heading out on a long & laden ride. I generally run somewhere between 14 & 18psi up front depending upon the ambient temps, the roads I'm planning on riding on, the speeds I'm planning on travelling at, how hard I'm gonna hit the twisties, &/or the load I'm putting aboard my Spyder (or car, or truck.... ;) ) Use the 4psi rule for a while, or even just watch how your tire pressures vary from this sort of difference in the what where when & how of your riding & you'll quickly learn what pressures suit YOU best! :clap:

As for your rear tire pressure, if you are happy with the ride & handling you are getting from your General Altimax while it's running 20psi (cold) in it, then I see no reason to change that just cos you don't quite get a 4psi increase - after all, it's just a guide, intended to HELP you schoose what pressures to run!! ;) Maybe you should watch carefully for increased tread wear in the centre of the tread, cos that is an identified risk of running too high; & certainly, if it looks like raining you might want to drop another lb or too out of your rear tire to minimise any chance of hydroplaning; OR maybe you could take that 'ONLY a 3psi increase' as an indication that you could ride a bit harder, corner a bit faster, brake a bit later or heavier, etc without creating any significant tire concerns - adjusting the tire pressure is only ONE of the ways you can vary how much your tire pressures might increase from their cold start levels! :thumbup:
 
I'm assuming that the 4psi rule does not apply to the OEM Kenda front tires. I'm at 14K on the original front Kendas on my new to me 13 RTS. 10 K of that is mine. I'm running 15-16 cold on the fronts and typically see a 1.5-2.0 psi increase after a long ride. Cant see reducing the pressure to get more of an increase on these.

I've got about 3K on a new Khumo 225/60-15 rear running 28psi cold. Usually see a 3.5-4.0 psi increase on it. All measured by FOBO.

Bob
 
Thanks Peter

Great explanation. Still getting used to this new to me Spyder RTs, especially the handling, and want to get the tires set at an optimal setting. I will play close attention based on your advice. Thanks again.
 
I was gonna skip this thread completely but someone has to point out that with any maximum tire pressure there is a minimum. Although the minimum is not as clearly defined as the maximum is (listed right on the sidewall of the tire)...

This is from the Kuhmo website but you can find it on any tire manufacturers' site as well:

The importance of maintaining the proper air pressure cannot be overstated. Under-inflation can lead to excessive heat build-up and structural stress and can cause a tire to fail. Over-inflation can cause uneven tire wear in the center portion of the tread pattern and can also lead to vehicle handling problems.

Granted our rides are much lighter than cars but you can still get there....

Having had been in the business for 20+ years I have seen what that looks like firsthand..... :yikes: I would prefer to lose a few hundred miles of wear over having a failure due to heat buildup and structural failure.

The very first thing I noticed once switching to "car" tires and being able to run higher pressures without the tires getting all squirrely and actually losing traction like the Kendas would, was how EASILY the bike accelerated & rolled down the road.... Also, my DPS actually feels like DPS! Now mind you, I am not running car pressures but I am not in the "teens" of air pressure either....

To each their own, but I just had to say my piece.... ;-)

The Kumho site also has ZERO recommendations on PSI for the tire and rightly states to use the PSI specified by the vehicle manufacturer. The only place I've seen PSI/weight ratings is for trailer tires.
 
I'm assuming that the 4psi rule does not apply to the OEM Kenda front tires. I'm at 14K on the original front Kendas on my new to me 13 RTS. 10 K of that is mine. I'm running 15-16 cold on the fronts and typically see a 1.5-2.0 psi increase after a long ride. Cant see reducing the pressure to get more of an increase on these.

I've got about 3K on a new Khumo 225/60-15 rear running 28psi cold. Usually see a 3.5-4.0 psi increase on it. All measured by FOBO.

Bob

Keep in mind that all vehicles spec their recommended PSI to cold inflation. You don't fill to lower PSI in anticipation of heat.
 
I'm assuming that the 4psi rule does not apply to the OEM Kenda front tires. ...

No, it still applies Bob; it's just that the OEM tires (front OR rear) are basically pretty mediocre anyway & varying their pressures up or down won't do a great deal either way... You might (should?) get even better life out of them up front by running pressures a bit lower, possibly even get a little better ride & handling, almost certainly get better traction... but at what cost & what risk??! :dontknow:

They often aren't a 'well constructed' tire & the quality control where they are made seems to be seriously lacking!! Personally, from what you've told us I'd stick with what you've got now, realising that you aren't going to get anything better than OK performance out of them & knowing that as soon as they are worn out or you get sick of their lack of performance in any area, you can swap 'em out for virtually any appropriately sized car tire alternative & get significantly better ride, handling, traction, & tire life from them! :thumbup:

Over to you! ;)
 
Keep in mind that all vehicles spec their recommended PSI to cold inflation. You don't fill to lower PSI in anticipation of heat.

Actually WackyDan, when it comes to vehicle tires, that management of 'anticipated heat increase' thing is pretty much WHY we run pnuematic tires where we can vary pressures & manage the changes instead of just running solid rubber rings & going with what you get! ;)

But you are right in that you don't LOWER your cold start pressures to avoid too much heat increase, cos lowering the cold start pressure will INCREASE the proportional heat & pressure gain!! :shocked:

LESS than optimal heat increase (& therefore a corresponding small pressure increase) means your cold start pressure was too HIGH, so if you want to minimise or lessen the heat & pressure gain you increase your cold start pressure;

GREATER than optimal heat increase (& therefore a corresponding larger pressure increase) means your cold start pressure was too LOW, so if you want to maximise or increase the heat & pressure gain you lower your cold start pressure!

:thumbup:
 
Last edited:
But you are right in that you don't LOWER your cold start pressures to avoid too much heat increase, cos lowering the cold start pressure will INCREASE the proportional heat & pressure gain!! :shocked:

:thumbup:

So, Mr Aawen, I'm running around 20psi both front and rear on my F3-L, and I only see a FOBO increase of around 1 to maybe 1.5 psi after about an hour. Is is possible I would see the 4psi change if I dropped to 18psi? I really don't want to go much lower than 18psi with my load on the Spyder ( even though I'm sure I "could" go to 16, my little brain is fighting me :D )

Pete
 
UNDER - INFLATION

I was gonna skip this thread completely but someone has to point out that with any maximum tire pressure there is a minimum. Although the minimum is not as clearly defined as the maximum is (listed right on the sidewall of the tire)...

This is from the Kuhmo website but you can find it on any tire manufacturers' site as well:

The importance of maintaining the proper air pressure cannot be overstated. Under-inflation can lead to excessive heat build-up and structural stress and can cause a tire to fail. Over-inflation can cause uneven tire wear in the center portion of the tread pattern and can also lead to vehicle handling problems.

Granted our rides are much lighter than cars but you can still get there....

Having had been in the business for 20+ years I have seen what that looks like firsthand..... :yikes: I would prefer to lose a few hundred miles of wear over having a failure due to heat buildup and structural failure.

The very first thing I noticed once switching to "car" tires and being able to run higher pressures without the tires getting all squirrely and actually losing traction like the Kendas would, was how EASILY the bike accelerated & rolled down the road.... Also, my DPS actually feels like DPS! Now mind you, I am not running car pressures but I am not in the "teens" of air pressure either....

To each their own, but I just had to say my piece.... ;-)
I hope you read all of what Peter had to say on this subject ...... Addressing the Kuhmo - website & the discussion of under-inflation...... IMHO, they did not consider a vehicle that weighed 1100 lbs. in their calculations and they don't construct their tires for that weight " limitation ". So when they warn about running THEIR tires at the 20 to 25 psi range ..... they are thinking in terms of a vehicle weighing 3500 to 4500 + lbs..........Running a KUHMO on the rear of any Spyder in the 18 to 20 psi range is still under-stressing that tire by a considerable margin ............ Last year I accidently ran my Michelin rear tire at 8 psi and didn't pop the bead.......... there are lots of opinions out there, some are of value and some are pure s.w.a.g. ..... ride safe ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
So, Mr Aawen, I'm running around 20psi both front and rear on my F3-L, and I only see a FOBO increase of around 1 to maybe 1.5 psi after about an hour. Is is possible I would see the 4psi change if I dropped to 18psi? ...

Sure, it is possible Pete, try it & see! ;) I doubt very much that dropping another 2psi will see anything drastically dangerous or even upsetting occur!! Look at Mike's report of 'surviving' running 8psi in his tire, & I've done the same too - you weren't aiming to go that low were you?? In fact, thinking about it, me'n the normal 'load' on my RT is probably not all that far off you in terms of weight/load on your tires, & I've done thousands of miles with my tires set to cold start pressures of 14/16 fr/rear, without ANY issues except markedly & clearly identifiable better wear, ride, handling, & traction than the others riding around me who still run higher pressures.... :dontknow: There again, if your ambient temps are generally higher than those I'm riding in, maybe that extra couple of psi you are running is helping limit heat build up, or maybe it's just a touch too much... but unless you try it you'll never know?! ;)

You don't necessarily need to be slaved to achieving that 4psi increase, it's a 'rule of thumb' that simply allows a consistent method of determining what you should be aiming for - not hitting it isn't a punishable offence, just so long as long as you retain an awareness that you might not be getting the best balance of wear, traction, ride, & handling than you might possibly expect. But if everything is working as YOU want it to with your tires, & if you are getting the ride & handling & tread wear that suits/pleases you, isn't that the whole point?? If 20psi all round is mainly working for you & dropping another 2 psi doesn't make you more comfortable concerning the ride & traction, or maybe it feels a bit spongier than you'd like thru the corners, then you don't HAVE to stick with the lower pressure - but I'd suggest that you keep an eye on your tire wear if you don't drop your pressures a leeedle bit more, the centre of the tread might start showing signs of accelerated wear within just a couple of thousand miles. Hotter ambient temps might warrant the extra couple of psi, but you might be wearing your tire out prematurely & compromising your wet road traction.... or maybe your ryding style calls for a bit more pressure to avoid too much tire deflection &/or understeer.... or maybe not?!? Don't you really owe it to yourself to check it out & see??

Or if you don't care about how your Spyder rydes & handles, if you just want to throw on a tire or three & then let the black round things keep the shiny/mechanical/hard bits of your Spyder off the road until they won't do that anymore, then you are welcome to do that too! But please, give us a heads up about where & when you are gonna ryde, cos I don't really want to be on the other side of the road when you fail to make a corner, or in front of you when your tires wont grip the road to stop you running up my clacker, or when you can't take off from the lights fast or otherwise without lighting the rear up & leaving a tire smoke screen/haze behind you for me to breathe in & drive thru... :sour:

Generally, your tires will look after you & give back ride, wear, handling, traction, & performance directly in proportion to how much you look after them & work to get their pressures right for what you are doing.... the Kendas spec'd for our Spyders, maybe not so much, altho if you get a rare set of 'good' Kendas, they might work OK. But I want something better than just OK, just like I want the tires that I do run to give me the best they can... well, at least the best they can commensurate with the amount of care, time, & effort I can be bothered putting into getting that from them anyway! So I DO check my tire pressures pretty much every time I ryde, both before I start & after I've ridden for a while, & I also check a bunch of other stuff too... virtually every time I ryde! It's YOUR choice about your tires & how much you expect from them/the amount of effort you put into getting the best you can from them! :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
No, it still applies Bob; it's just that the OEM tires (front OR rear) are basically pretty mediocre anyway & varying their pressures up or down won't do a great deal either way... You might (should?) get even better life out of them up front by running pressures a bit lower, possibly even get a little better ride & handling, almost certainly get better traction... but at what cost & what risk??! :dontknow:

My stomach starts to churn a bit at the thought of running 11-12 psi on them. I have visions of the tire rolling off the rim on a fast sweeper. :shocked:

Actually I find myself taking known curves a bit faster on the Spyder than I did on my 1700 Nomad. Of course that may be more due to caution on my part on 2 wheels. I rarely scraped the floorboards. :lecturef_smilie:

I'm actually pretty satisfied with the way the Spyder handles as is, although I will upgrade the front tires when needed. At age 67 though, I'm more into leisurely rides than white knuckling it. Most of the time, anyway. :riding:

Bob
 
My stomach starts to churn a bit at the thought of running 11-12 psi on them. I have visions of the tire rolling off the rim on a fast sweeper. :shocked:
.....

Yeah Bob, with the OE Kendas, there's no way I'd knowingly risk that!! Hey, I reckon that without even trying, I've been bloody close to rolling the front Kendas off the rims when they had 18 psi in them!! The Kendas really aren't what I'd call a 'performance tire' by any stretch of the imagination, & IMO, anything much more than a reasonably sedate ride on them could be somewhat risky!! :shocked:

But throw a set of 'real' car tires on, ie, tires with a couple of substantial plies & rubber in the sidewalls as well as full width tread belts & plies that have been carefully aligned & applied during a tried & proven quality controlled manufacturing process, and suddenly taking corners faster than you would on most 2 wheeled machine while running 12-16 psi in them is not only possible, it's fairly easy & downright enjoyable!! :yes: :riding::2thumbs:

Please tell us all how happy or otherwise you are with the 'improved' ride & handling you should get when you eventually swap out those Kendas! ;) I don't think there are too many people who've willingly reverted back to running Kendas once they've tried 'proper tires' at appropriate pressures for the load the Spyder puts on them. :thumbup:
 
Sure, it is possible Pete, try it & see! ;) I doubt very much that dropping another 2psi will see anything drastically dangerous or even upsetting occur!! Look at Mike's report of 'surviving' running 8psi in his tire, & I've done the same too

Thanks Peter......I'll try 18 all around and see how I go and what it does to the riding pressures.........just don't tell Mike, OK? He'll get a swelled head, the grumpy bugger ;) :D :D

Pete
 
You asking me that Bob?? Or maybe Mike?? When you know we've been saying pretty much the same thing over & over for quite a few years now??? :dontknow:

Regardless of which of us you're asking, I'd hafta reply by saying: No! Probably not!! Just give it another coupla weeks & someone else will ask it again!! :gaah: But remember, for them, it'll probably be the very first time they've asked, or maybe even thought about tire pressures (or oil, or tire brands/choices, or how to avoid diving all over the road, or whatever!!) :rolleyes:




Still, that's why we all frequent places like this isn't it?! To ask questions, share info, & maybe even help others get past the problems & concerns we've already survived - if we can! :thumbup: So bring it on!! :clap: :2thumbs:
 
:D I wasn't pitching that comment in anyone's particular direction.
But since folks don't want to let go of it yet...

Beating the Dead Horse.jpg

:2thumbs:
 
REPETITIVE POSTING

Bob, I can't believe you of all people SPANKED Peter for this :lecturef_smilie:........ You have how many​ "BACON POSTS ???????...... at least Peter's might save someone's LIFE, your's might actually assist in Killing them :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: ................ Mike :thumbup:
 
Back
Top