• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Key won't turn

Cruising RT

New member
Yesterday I went on a wind therapy ride on my 14 RTL. Stopped for a moment start to get back on road and my key when in ignition switch but won' t turn. Brake locked. Had to call for a rollback. Tried my spare key and that key got stuck. I was able to get the key out after reading a post from Lamont about using a paper clip. I can insert my normal key in the switch and remove it but when I insert my spare key it gets stuck. Neither key will work in switch. I'm thinking a tumbler in the switch has shifted. Headed tomorrow to dealership. If the switch has dropped a tumbler, should my warranty cover the replacement of switch, keys & labor?
 
Curious...🤔

We're or are the bars locked..? Could someone have tampered with the ignition..?? hope it is something simple and you can tell us about it....:thumbup:
 
We're or are the bars locked..? Could someone have tampered with the ignition..?? hope it is something simple and you can tell us about it....:thumbup:

Handle bars not locked. Found a post about a BRP service bulletin, stating a issue with the 14's, I guess I'll be waiting for dealer to elaborate.
 
If you've still got warranty, then it should be covered... if the Dealer/BRP claims it's not covered, the only valid reasons for knocking back a normally covered under warranty item like that I can think of which would make an ign fail in that manner would be attempted theft & that should be covered by insurance... :dontknow:

Good Luck! :thumbup:


Ps: if it eventually comes down to you needing a new ign & key/s at your expense, drop me a PM, I know a bloke who I believe may be able to help you - he bought most of the spares/warranty stock as a bulk lot from a 'going out of business' dealer & so has lotsa interesting bits that he might be prepared to sell at reasonable prices... but we'd hafta check part no's etc veeerrry carefully. ;)
 
About the time I bought my '14RT-S, late Sept '14, there was a bulletin about defective keys or ignition locks, don't remember which. There is a small, plastic, numbered tag that came with the two keys for each new Spyder. The bulletin listed the defective part(s) by number on the tag. My dealer checked the bulletin and determined the numbered tag that came with my keys was not on the list. Perhaps your keys/lock are on the list. Would be to your advantage if you could find the tag.
 

Early 14's did have an ignition problem but most were replaced. Later 14's had a factory fix. Have dealer run a bulletin/service check with your VIN #. Mine

was replaced before it left the dealer and has been trouble free since.

Jack
 
About the time I bought my '14RT-S, late Sept '14, there was a bulletin about defective keys or ignition locks, don't remember which. There is a small, plastic, numbered tag that came with the two keys for each new Spyder. The bulletin listed the defective part(s) by number on the tag. My dealer checked the bulletin and determined the numbered tag that came with my keys was not on the list. Perhaps your keys/lock are on the list. Would be to your advantage if you could find the tag.


I bought my bike used with 900 miles on it but I don't recall any tags on the keys. I know there is a number engraved on the keys but no tags. Headed out to the dealership this morning. :spyder:
 

In case the young person at the parts counter does not know, the "14" and up keys are different from previous models. They are not interchangeable. They look the same but programing is different. Make sure you get the right one if you purchase a new key. Might need a new ignition switch.

Jack
 
The service bulletin I believe was for early 2014's with a certain key tag numbers. It cannot be looked up by VIN. Since you don't have the tag the point is mute. Since the ignition switch is stuck. If you have warranty it will be covered. They need to replace the ignition switch, all the locks and reprogram the DESS.
 
I delivered the Spyder to the dealership this morning and service department said they were behind and that at best it would be three weeks before they could check the bike. I've got the extended warranty so I'm sure the repair should be covered. On a positive note its winter time so I probably wouldn't get must riding in anyway.:banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
Finally a call from dealership today. Yes, the ignition switch has failed. I've got to have new switch installed. Thankfully, my extended warranty covers everything but the deductable. :2thumbs: Thank the good lord. I'm sure it wouldn't be a inexpensive repair, it's a Spyder, right? Now I have high hopes of getting my bike home before the end of year, Always try to get a Polar Bear Run in on the 1st of January.
 
Key Stuck not necessarily ignition switch

I bought my 2014 RTS-SE6 in May. Had it home for less than a week and bam! key won't turn. I could put it in and pull it out :opps: but couldn't turn it. Had it towed to the dealership thinking only bad thoughts already.
Turns out that I had the seat up and when I closed it, the seat locking post didn't go straight into the lock causing my ignition key not to turn. The mechanic took a screwdriver and wedged it down in under the seat and forced the locking mechanism open. Now I'm very careful about shutting the seat directly onto the opening in the locking mechanism. Oh, and I carry a screwdriver in the trunk.
 
I bought my 2014 RTS-SE6 in May. Had it home for less than a week and bam! key won't turn. I could put it in and pull it out :opps: but couldn't turn it. Had it towed to the dealership thinking only bad thoughts already.
Turns out that I had the seat up and when I closed it, the seat locking post didn't go straight into the lock causing my ignition key not to turn. The mechanic took a screwdriver and wedged it down in under the seat and forced the locking mechanism open. Now I'm very careful about shutting the seat directly onto the opening in the locking mechanism. Oh, and I carry a screwdriver in the trunk.
I don't like to second guess another mechanic, but he should have adjusted your seat so it closes correctly to prevent this from happening again. It's very easy. If you have a couple of wrenches, you can easily align the pin yourself.
 
Key

Mine did the same thing at Walmart. I took a screw driver and tap it with the handle it worked then. I carried to shop he looked it up on computer and a page that said to file the very bottom tit flat on each side of key . He did 1 key I said I would do the other one if it worked . Its been 3 years works every time.
 
Back
Top