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Just bought the Dynojet PV3 for my 18 F3L

If you really wanted to feel difference, you should have gone the Pedal Commander. The nice thing about the PC is it is adjustable from mild to wild. Plug and play too.
 
If you're a spirited rider, you notice the acceleration boost. If you're 'normal', you may not sense the added power. Add the PC and hold on tight!
 
you will notice a big Horsepower/Torque difference...especially getting on and riding on the freeway..passing 18 wheelers etc...riding with a fully loaded trailer and passenger..your motor is no longer running lean on fuel due to C.A.R.B. restrictions. now your bike will run the way its supposed to be from the factory....you made a very smart move by purchasing one...when you install it..please post a review.
 
I did this saturday and it is a massive difference with torque, etc. it has a lot more get up and go. Way worth the price I paid
 
PC is not for me. All it does is change the throttle position sensor to "already on." Say to get the stock acceleration normally you twist the throttle from 0° for none to 90° for full acceleration. With the PC on the "wild" setting, twisting the throttle 30° tells the TPS you've twisted it 90° which IMHO is dangerous. Twisting the throttle any more than that 30° will just be dead net zero gain cuz the bike thinks the throttle is already at max. If you like riding at full throttle all the time, just do that - twist a bit more which gives you more control over your bike. You gain nothing with the PC.
 
Rattlebars said:
PC is not for me. All it does is change the throttle position sensor to "already on." Say to get the stock acceleration normally you twist the throttle from 0° for none to 90° for full acceleration. With the PC on the "wild" setting, twisting the throttle 30° tells the TPS you've twisted it 90° which IMHO is dangerous. Twisting the throttle any more than that 30° will just be dead net zero gain cuz the bike thinks the throttle is already at max. If you like riding at full throttle all the time, just do that - twist a bit more which gives you more control over your bike. You gain nothing with the PC.
Click to expand...

Clearly, you either haven't used a PC or you're not the type rider that would benefit from the change in response the PC offers. For one thing, you assume we all crank the PC to full (Sport+). There are many steps of sensitivity ranging from ECO, City, Sport, & Sport+ with steps in between. Personally, I usually have mine set for Sport when riding spirited in the twisties. It absolutely increases my corner exits. That, combined with the PV3 tune, will keep up with most 2 wheel sport-tourers.
 
The installation of the PV3 is: 1 plug the PV3 into the OBD connector under the grill, 2 follow simple directions to extract your current OEM tune, 3 upload that file to computer and go online to upload it to tune provider, 4 download the new tune, 5 flash the new tune into ECU, DONE! Each of these steps are well documented and very simple.
You can go back and forth between different tune files depending on your needs since the PV3 stores 4 tune files - including your OEM tune if you need to revert back.
 
Is there a preferred vendor? To those who've got 'em, where did you get yours? Why does Fuel Moto not list the RT as an available fitment? I see F3s listed in some offerings, but not RTs.
 
Fuel Moto didn't offer the PV3 on their website so I bought directly from DynoJet. The 1330 engine in the RT is the same as the F3. I suppose if you contact Fuel Moto, they will sell you the PV3 including a better tune package than DynoJet.
 
i just bought the PV3. I hooked it up to the diagnostic port, turned key on, nothing. Plugged in the supplied USB for power. Screen says to connect to ECU, it's already connected! I tried multiple times and wiggled the wires, even started the the Spyder F3 Limited. Nothing! Anyone have this issue? Could I have bad PV3 or cable? I've emailed the tech support but it's Thanksgiving day and no one is there. Might have to wait until Monday.
 
HEY SKUPS, You do not use the usb power cord while it's plugged into your Spyder.
Make sure your plug is seated all the way in to the spyder diagnostic plug

T.P.
 
Well, in the instructions it says if the PV3 doesn't power up from the diagnostic port, use the USB. I also noticed on the plug of the diagnostic, there is a red wire, which is usually a power wire. On the pin configuration of the PV3 plug, it doesn't line up with that port. I'm wondering if I got the wrong cable. I've pushed the plugs in tight, made sure it's clicked in, wiggled and jiggled, nothing. BTW, currently Dynojet is doing a sale of $40 off the usual price, I unfortunately didn't didn't get that deal cause I ordered it about 2 weeks ago, missed the sale.
 
Skups said:
Well, in the instructions it says if the PV3 doesn't power up from the diagnostic port, use the USB. I also noticed on the plug of the diagnostic, there is a red wire, which is usually a power wire. On the pin configuration of the PV3 plug, it doesn't line up with that port. I'm wondering if I got the wrong cable. I've pushed the plugs in tight, made sure it's clicked in, wiggled and jiggled, nothing. BTW, currently Dynojet is doing a sale of $40 off the usual price, I unfortunately didn't didn't get that deal cause I ordered it about 2 weeks ago, missed the sale.
Click to expand...

So then, are these currently on sale at Dynojet, or is the discount from other vendors also?
 
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