Just bought a 2014 RT SE6. Few questions

[Madison Sully]

I had a 2010 RT-S SE5, which I sold about a year ago. That one didn't really thrill me, and my wife (the reason we got it) decided she didn't want to drive it any more, she was content with the Piaggio MP3 500 when we ride two-up. Well, being female (human?) she changed her mind and now wants to ride pillion on something more Can-Amish.

So I just bought a 2014 RT SE6 (she pointed; what can I do?). I got to say, on the ~150 or so mile ride home I like the new motor and transmission a LOT better. Shifting is way smoother, and this one actually downshifts all the way to 1 when slowing to a stop. At least today it did....

Anyway, few questions about my new ryde....

1. I noticed a lot more belt vibration. I haven't checked the tension yet (and darn it all I gave away the tension measuring thingies I had when I sold the 2010). The vibration would come and go, but was really noticeable. From my prior times hereabouts, I gather the drill is 1: check/adjust the tension, then if still not OK 2: install a belt tensioner. Suggestions?

2. It currently has ~40,000 miles on it, which is totally fine. I have a 500cc scooter with more than that. The spark plugs haven't been changed though. So, question #2 is, is there a good shop manual available? Or for today, what does it take to replace the spark plugs? I'm very handy....

3. On the way home we stopped. OK full disclosure we stopped at a craft store to look at, I mean so she could look at yarn. Anyway, we were there maybe 15-20 minutes, and when we went to leave the thing wouldn't start. My first try I think I didn't press the starter long enough, so no hard feelings. But then it took several more tries, me getting ever more sheepish. After maybe 4 tries, I started from scratch. Key out... Key in, turn it, wait, hit 'mode', press the starter, and it started. I'm about 90% sure I did stuff right the first time, so question #3 is, in hot weather is this any sort of normal?

4. For the number of miles on it, the prior (original) owner did take good care of it. New tires, battery, and I think all the brake pads within the last year. Is there anything beyond typical maintenance for this vintage that I should be looking at? Flux capacitors go bad, or anything like that?

5. This one came with foot pegs, and I be wanting floorboards I think. I have seen the Rivco floorboards for ~$350, and am considering that. But I have also seen the OEM Spyder floorboards with extended highway pegs. From what I have seen it appears the OEM floorboards from the RT-S are compatible, and can have the highway pegs put on. Is this available as a kit from BRP?

Thanks all!

 

[CopperSpyder]

:congrats: On the new to you 2014 RT!! Looks like you are due to change the plugs, I recommend using Bajarons set that he sells. Just "click: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?23928-New-sponsor-here-for-Filters-amp-Helmets For a manual try looking on ebay for a green manual. They will have every thing in there just like the shop manual. When try to start your Spyder make sure you have your foot on the brake, but I think a new set of plugs will really help in your case.

 

[spyderider1]

#3 This has happened to me several times. What I found is that I wasn't pressing down hard enough on the brake. It doesn't take a lot of pressure but it is sensitive. As you already know, if you miss one step in the process she ain't gonna go. Good luck with all things Spyder!

 

[JayBros]

The best thing you can, and should do is RTFM. There's a lot of very good information in it including a maintenance schedule, but information on the oil quantity is incorrect. You can search here for detailed instructions here on the oil fill and how to properly check the level, and on changing the spark plugs; there are some good posts on the topics.

 

[Madison Sully]

The best thing you can, and should do is RTFM. There's a lot of very good information in it including a maintenance schedule, but information on the oil quantity is incorrect. You can search here for detailed instructions here on the oil fill and how to properly check the level, and on changing the spark plugs; there are some good posts on the topics.

I'm big on reading manuals. Huge. I asked several questions above, none of which relate to what I'd expect to be in an owner's manual.
1. Suggestions about dealing with belt vibration.
2. Asking about a good shop manual. See, I tend to do all my own work, and the owners' manual is too shallow on the topics I'm interested in.
3. Asking if, in hot weather, a resistance to starting is sorta normal or if I should be suspicious about those spark plugs.
4. Asking if there is anything I should expect outside normal maintenance.
5. Asking if there is an OEM kit to exchange foot pegs to floorboards.

Frankly your suggestion to RTFM ain't so helpful. I'm not exactly a newb here, I had a 2010 which I did mention.
Did a fair pile of work on it before I sold it; Baja Ron sway bar kit, plug/wire kit, LaMonster footpeg kit, amongst them.
Sorry if I come off as caustic; I was on this forum last year and it was pretty.... Well I left for a year.
If this was you really trying to be helpful, thanks.
Anyway, yeah, maybe we can share a pitcher sometime if we meet on the road. Beer, ice tea, whatever.

 

[Madison Sully]

#3 This has happened to me several times. What I found is that I wasn't pressing down hard enough on the brake. It doesn't take a lot of pressure but it is sensitive. As you already know, if you miss one step in the process she ain't gonna go. Good luck with all things Spyder!

Thought I had a firm foot on the brake, but this'll get me super conscious about it. Thanks.
And yeah, that startup process is a bit long.... Thanks Nanny. :sour:

 

[Madison Sully]

:congrats: On the new to you 2014 RT!! Looks like you are due to change the plugs, I recommend using Bajarons set that he sells. Just "click: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?23928-New-sponsor-here-for-Filters-amp-Helmets For a manual try looking on ebay for a green manual. They will have every thing in there just like the shop manual. When try to start your Spyder make sure you have your foot on the brake, but I think a new set of plugs will really help in your case.

Thanks for the reminder. BajaRon supplied me with a couple cashdepleting projects on my last Spyder!
From what I see it's plugs only, no wire kit? I got the plug/wire kit for the 2010 998cc motor, but seems the new one has coil on plug?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

2. It currently has ~40,000 miles on it, which is totally fine. I have a 500cc scooter with more than that. The spark plugs haven't been changed though. So, question #2 is, is there a good shop manual available? Or for today, what does it take to replace the spark plugs? I'm very handy....

Maybe this will help.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...rk-plug-changeout-Part-1&highlight=spark+plug

 

[trikermutha]

I have 35 K on my 14 RT and starts right up. Those plugs will last to 100k. Think you be wasting your time changing them.

As for the belt check the tension and may have to lower it a bit but you may still feel some vibration. Some have install the belt tensioner.

Normal Maintenance should be good enough unless you drive it in severe conditions.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

:congrats: On the new to you 2014 RT!! Looks like you are due to change the plugs, I recommend using Bajarons set that he sells. Just "click: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?23928-New-sponsor-here-for-Filters-amp-Helmets For a manual try looking on ebay for a green manual. They will have every thing in there just like the shop manual. When try to start your Spyder make sure you have your foot on the brake, but I think a new set of plugs will really help in your case.

I have 53,000 mi. on my 14 RT ...... have not had any issues due to the plugs .... from what others here have said 60,000 miles is about average for plugs ...... jmho .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[PMK]

A few things to consider since it has 40,000 miles.

2014 were known to have DESS issues. If the DESS has not been upgraded under warranty, it may be worthwhile to purchase a DESS module to have on hand or even know how to swap out if on the road. Failed DESS will leave you stranded.

There is a 28,000 mile maintenance item for replacing the transmission filter. If it has not been accomplished you might want to consider that.

Other maintenance items, some based on calendar time would be a flush and bleed of the brake system. Drain and reservice coolant.

As for coil on plug and spark plug replacement intervals. I agree with others that the plugs will show no physical wear if removed and inspected. My caution is that high performance engines require better voltage to not misfire the spark plug when under high power loads. Misfires will destroy the coils. On old machines, car, trucks, and likely even earlier Spyder, as the spark plug resistors wear over time, these older machines will misfire in the distributer or the plug wires. Coil on plug does not offer that option and ruins the coil assembly. Entirely your call though. On our 2014 RTS, Plugs were cheap, so I installed Denso performance spark plugs well before the required interval.

If it has not been replaced, consider replacing the fuel filter too. Low cost easy item.

 

[Mikey]

Are those coil packs, like the ones ford has where you don't need to replace the coil pack it self but you should replace what the they call the plug wire witch is a flimsy spring thing in the plug boot?? Strangest thing I ever say when I had to do it on one of my trucks!

 

[PMK]

Are those coil packs, like the ones ford has where you don't need to replace the coil pack it self but you should replace what the they call the plug wire witch is a flimsy spring thing in the plug boot?? Strangest thing I ever say when I had to do it on one of my trucks!

Yes, similar but different. What tends to happen, and does in Fords too knowing this since our 5.4 van did it, the plug refuses to fire easily. The high voltage will disipate somewhere, which is the easiest path to remove it. Sometimes it will simply jump the insulation and short to ground, ultimately burning through the rubber boot and arcing to the cylinder head. Other times it will not fire to ground through the boot and can internally jump inside the coil itself, rendering the coil scrap. Or, it becomes a mix based on laziness...sometimes firing the plug, sometimes shorting to ground and sometimes trashing the coil all at the same similar time. Electricity is lazy and has no remorse regarding what it destroys. Plugs are not expensive, time it takes to change them can add up. I try to accomplish multiple maintenance tasks at the same time, even if slightly earlier than scheduled.

As I mentioned, I purchased and installed Denso high performance spark plugs, with hopes of easily making the next scheduled mileage change while optimizing the engine.

Regarding the 5.4 Ford engine, have carried the code reader and a spare new coil for a long time. This way, on road trips I can easily know which coil misfired when the CEL comes on. Swap the coil and keep rolling. A while back, I did replace all the coils with new oem coils. Engine ran better and got better mpg. This was after previously just replacing the rubber boots and springs.

 

[JayBros]

Madison Sully,
My apology if suggesting to read the operator's guide was insulting; I did not intend it to be so. From my perspective with 67K miles on my RT-S:

1. I've never experienced belt vibration that I can detect although from what I've read on SL many folks say lowering the tension, I don't know how much, reduces or eliminates vibration. I do most of my own work but always take my Spyder to the dealership where I purchased it to install the rear tire I provide because the technician always checks the tension with a Gates sonic meter.

2. I have a Green service manual procured online for $30. The only pain about using it is it does not have an index. You can also make your selection at this link, https://brpmanuals.com/canam-spyder-manual.htm.

3. The only time I've ever had a problem with my Spyder not starting immediately in any kind of weather or temperature is when the first battery was dying.

4. You've probably noticed that your operator's guide has an incorrect picture of the dipstick in the maintenance section; terrible editing. If your headlights and fog lights, if you have them, burn out I recommend replacing them with LEDs. I am very pleased with mine from Tricled. I have read on SL of one gent who had a plug coil go south with over 100K on his roadster so he replaced all three. The dealership changed my plugs as part of the 28K service and I did them again with iridium ones from Bajaron when I did the 56K service. Mac's link on changing the plugs is excellent; I wish I had it when I did mine. You do not need to change the fuel filter at 19,000 intervals as the service interval schedule says; BRP moved it out to 28K in MY 2016.

5. To my knowledge, BRP does not make a kit that contains all the parts to convert the roadster from pegs to floorboards but you can purchase all the parts individually. If you then want to install highway pegs to the floorboards you can find some here, http://www.lamonstergarage.com/can-am-spyder-rt-fbb-highway-brackets-pegs-lamonster/. I don't use highway pegs but Lamonster's accessories are of excellent quality.

I offer one suggestion regarding the oil change interval: if you ride lots of miles annually Amsoil Metric Full Synthetic 10W-40 oil from Bajaron will easily go the BRP stated 9,300 miles between changes and the viscosity does not shear down the way other oils do. If you must lay up the Spyder for the winter use whatever oil you choose and change oil and filter before the lay up. In either event you will probably find full synthetic oil rewards you with smoother shifting.

I offer two suggested farkles: Spyderpops KOTT Grilles to keep the bugs out of the radiators and a bump skid to protect the lower front of the Spyder.

Ride safely.

 

[PMK]

2. I have a Green service manual procured online for $30. The only pain about using it is it does not have an index. You can also make your selection at this link, https://brpmanuals.com/canam-spyder-manual.htm.

Ride safely.

I too bought the Green Manual. Not bad but have been disappointed with it. The BRP published documents explain that the 2014 and after manuals are an addendum to the previous years manuals. The Green Manual is merely the addendum and not a complete manual. I made Green Manuals aware of this and they acknowledged my email asking for specific instances. I listed and sent them many examples. After this no replies to correct the situation, and they avoided sending any replies even responding in any way. Will not recommend or purchase Green Manuals again.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

2. I have a Green service manual procured online for $30. The only pain about using it is it does not have an index. You can also make your selection at this link, https://brpmanuals.com/canam-spyder-manual.htm.

I guess I've never really missed the index. I use search or table of contents to find specific items in the manual.

Will not recommend or purchase Green Manuals again.

There really isn't any other choice. I have come across only one other manual but I don't recall the name. It's a flip page book, not a regular PDF. All the other downloadable manuals all come from the same seller. He just uses 3 or 4 different website names. I don't think he's officially authorized to distribute the PDF versions but his are the only ones available anywhere. BRP doesn't sell a PDF version. And based on my searching you'll never find the Green Manuals seller's physical address. I've no idea what country he lives in or where his website is based.

 

[Madison Sully]

A few things to consider since it has 40,000 miles.

2014 were known to have DESS issues. If the DESS has not been upgraded under warranty, it may be worthwhile to purchase a DESS module to have on hand or even know how to swap out if on the road. Failed DESS will leave you stranded.

I'll have to check into the DESS module. I see no indication it was replaced in the documents I have. Is there a way to identify an upgraded one? Looks a right pain in the pooper to get at it; probably good to do the spark plugs in the same time. Ouch on the price, if this is a correct part: https://www.amazon.com/Spyder-Roadster-Module-710001195-Can-Am/dp/B016J1YF7W I'll try to contact a local dealer to see if they can find any open recalls.

The prior owner gave me much of the documented maintenance history. It seems in addition to not changing spark plugs, the transmission oil filter has not been changed. And the air filter was "blown out" :gaah: So I'll get on those, too....

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'll have to check into the DESS module. I see no indication it was replaced in the documents I have. Is there a way to identify an upgraded one? Looks a right pain in the pooper to get at it; probably good to do the spark plugs in the same time. Ouch on the price, if this is a correct part: https://www.amazon.com/Spyder-Roadster-Module-710001195-Can-Am/dp/B016J1YF7W I'll try to contact a local dealer to see if they can find any open recalls.

The prior owner gave me much of the documented maintenance history. It seems in addition to not changing spark plugs, the transmission oil filter has not been changed. And the air filter was "blown out" :gaah: So I'll get on those, too....

Last I saw cheapcycleparts had it for $135 +/- ..... and I've read all 700 + posts on this topic.... immediate and total DESS failure is not the Norm .... most folks get 3 to 8 warning failures before Total failure ... it happened to me and was told ... move the Spyder if possible ( electrical interference ) .... Then 5 rapid " on / off's " .... mine re-started and I went to " Pitbull's " at Spyderfest 2014 and BRP Techs re-placed under warranty..... To see if you have the latest DESS part # ....you have to re-move the FRUNK to get to it ..... if you do this I highly recommend moving the DESS you have to an area under the right-side headlight.... This is what I did after I got home .... cut the wire ties and they will allow you to fo this " plug n play " ...... I have pics in one of my albums showing my RT , Mod ....... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[trikermutha]

In my case for the DESS module it has the newest version module and just started with the Orange Key Screen again the other day. But came right up after shutting off and on again.

So my next project if it keeps acting up is replacing the antenna per the Bulletin and not the whole ignition.

 

[ulflyer]

The best thing you can, and should do is RTFM. There's a lot of very good information in it including a maintenance schedule, but information on the oil quantity is incorrect. You can search here for detailed instructions here on the oil fill and how to properly check the level, and on changing the spark plugs; there are some good posts on the topics.

Dave......RTFM? You nearly said a bad word! LOL