Jump starting 2013 RT

[jcaburto]

My 2013 RTL came with a pigtail in the frunk that according to the dealer it's to be used with a battery tender.
But I've just realized that the plug matches the one on the Lamonster jump pack.
Is it safe to use it if I need to jump start my trike? This would eliminate the need to open the cover to access the battery directly.

Thanks in advance for any replies!

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

My 2013 RTL came with a pigtail in the frunk that according to the dealer it's to be used with a battery tender.
But I've just realized that the plug matches the one on the Lamonster jump pack.
Is it safe to use it if I need to jump start my trike? This would eliminate the need to open the cover to access the battery directly.

Thanks in advance for any replies!

For jump starting, no. The current draw will blow the fuse if it doesn't burn up the wire first! The battery tender lead is probably fused at 5 amps with a wire of something like 20 gauge. Jump starting will require something on the order of 30 to 50 amps and 6 or 8 gauge wire.

 

[jcaburto]

For jump starting, no. The current draw will blow the fuse if it doesn't burn up the wire first! The battery tender lead is probably fused at 5 amps with a wire of something like 20 gauge. Jump starting will require something on the order of 30 to 50 amps and 6 or 8 gauge wire.

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[Chupaca]

As I see it....

The adapter on the jump pack is most likely for charging your electronics. My pack (not from lamonster) has some heavy gauge wires and clamps for the jump feature...:thumbup:

 

[Peter Aawen]

While the pigtail connector isn't up to the current draw required by jump starting, those big remote terminals on the extension block up at the top of the frunk on the 2013 RT's ARE up to it!! I've used them on my RT & a couple of others with ease, even used them to power the jump start for a neighbours cage! Just pull the litle red condom off the positive terminal & connect up that terminal & the naked earth post you can see to the right - but I'd suggest you use fairly heavy cables AND cables with an inbuilt surge/spike suppressor at that!! Just putting the headlights on hi-beam WILL NOT be sufficient to absorb any spike in the power draw & you really don't want to fry your ECU - it's a right pain to get out of the 2013 RT!s!! :yikes:

 

[ThreeWheels]

If you are jump starting from a car, make sure the car is OFF.
That way, you're just drawing from the battery.
Make sure the car is OFF.
In case I wasn't clear,
MAKE SURE THE CAR IS OFF.

Just my opinion, I could be wrong. I'm certain someone here will happily tell me so.

 

[Easy Rider]

For jump starting, no. The current draw will blow the fuse if it doesn't burn up the wire first!

True. IF there is a fuse.

Either way, if the battery is not real dead, just connecting the charger/jump pack via that connector for 5 minutes or so has a good chance of transferring enough charge to get it going.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

- but I'd suggest you use fairly heavy cables AND cables with an inbuilt surge/spike suppressor at that!! Just putting the headlights on hi-beam WILL NOT be sufficient to absorb any spike in the power draw & you really don't want to fry your ECU - it's a right pain to get out of the 2013 RT!s!! :yikes:

I've never seen jumper cables with surge protectors! In case you forgot, the headlights on the Spyder don't turn on until the engine is running! I don't see how you could have a high voltage surge anyway when you connect a 12v battery to one that is sitting at less than 12 v.