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JBC Speaker Install in both front and back of 2014 RT Syder!

beadaholic

New member
Well Mike's Farkle works just fine! I installed the two sets of 5 1/4" speakers in my RT. Both in front and back! with Tweeters and Crossovers as well! The sound is much nicer, more rich, and overall it is just alot nicer! I am very happy with it. It was a bear to do it because I was afraid of taking off all the Tupperware, we took off mirrors, all the Tupperware mostly. haha, but that is no big deal, nothing to really be afraid of.

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I also did the before and after videos for the sound (this was an all day job btw) and I also installed LED pods under my bike.


Before


After

I am a pretty happy camper! As you can see this is doable. I did not have to use a heat gun being we took it apart completely, we did cut the hole bigger though! That was done with a dremel tool! Easy as pie!
 

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If you put 2 ohm speaker into a system that calls for 4 ohm if you keep it turned up it WILL cook the amp. I am a Journeyman Electrician so I know the facts. Putting higher impedance speaker will not damage the amp but will result in less power out.


When matching amplifiers to loudspeakers, the output impedance of the amplifier should match that of the loudspeakers as accurately as possible, to ensure that the amplifier is able to deliver its maximum rated power. If the speaker impedance is lower than that of the amplifier's output impedance, the amplifier will be forced to work too hard, which will cause overheating and possibly failure. If the amplifier has an overload protection circuit built-in, this may operate and shut down the amplifier, either partially or completely.

http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/1994_articles/oct94/impedance.html

Just because you CAN do something does mean you should.:thumbup: By the way those are JBL not JBC speakers.
 
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Dave,
Is there any way to figure out how long the amp might last under a mismatch like this?:dontknow:
Or do they just "Go, until they blow"? :yikes:

If you're not pushing full power through it all of the time; I assume that the system will hold together longer?
 
Highlights
  • Great JBL Sound Quality
  • UniPivot Tweeter Pod for smooth highs and great imaging
  • Plus One woofer cones for the high output and deep bass
  • True 4-Ohm design pulls the most power out of your system
  • Easy to install

This is in the listing where I bought the speakers, it says both 4 ohm and 2 ohm, so who knows, I am going to find out more about this part.
 
#1. Why does JBL ( one of the largest and foremost speaker manufactures ) sell these as direct re-placement for 4 OHM speakers?
#2. Do you think the Techs at JBL are lying to the public to sell their product.....or has this been worked out correctly by them?
#3. the link you posted is dated 1994. Is it still relevant? Or has something changed?
 
:shocked: Well I don't know my "amperage" from my "Ohm-Hole"...
But what you did sure sounds great, and I wish you the best of luck with it!
 
Would love to do this. Butt, don't have the wherewithall to do it. :dontknow: Nice sound! :thumbup: Tom :spyder:
 
#1. Why does JBL ( one of the largest and foremost speaker manufactures ) sell these as direct re-placement for 4 OHM speakers?
#2. Do you think the Techs at JBL are lying to the public to sell their product.....or has this been worked out correctly by them?
#3. the link you posted is dated 1994. Is it still relevant? Or has something changed?
Nothing has ever changed with impedance matching amps and speakers, basic electronics remain the same. Bob the key is not when and if you don't turn it up all the way it MAY be ok for a long time keeping it at a volume that is not louder than the OEM's were. It is close to and at full volume that the issues occur. Basically you are overheating the output transistors at that point with less resistance from the speakers. I do not know where you are getting 4 ohm from but this is from JBL Spec sheet.

GTO528
5-1/4" (130mm) 2-Way Loudspeaker
• Plus One
® (patent pending)woofer cone
• 1" (25mm) edge-driven My-Ti
™ tweeter
• Frequency response: 70Hz – 21kHz
• Sensitivity: 91dB
• Impedance: 2 ohms
• Power handling, RMS: 45 watts
• Power handling, peak: 135 watts
• Mounting depth: 2-3/8" (61mm)
• Cutout diameter: 4-3/4" (120mm)


 
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The first try at upgrading speakers as I remember it were with 4 ohm JBL's . They sounder better but were not significantly louder. Lowering the speaker impedance (resistance) does create more Watts but at the risk of cooking the amp.

Now most High quality home AVR's take 8 ohm speakers and can be stable down to 4 ohms. I am doubtful of the quality of the amplifier quality on our spyders so going from 4ohm to 2 ohm may or may not work in the long run. Roll the dice at your own risk.:thumbup:

Here is a little more light reading explaining my point
Ideally an amplifier should be a constant voltage source.That is, for a given input signal, the amplifier should produce a constant voltage across the speaker terminals whatever the load. For example, if the amplifier is producing 20 Volts at the output terminals, Ohms law (R=V/I) tells us that there are 50 watts being fed into an 8 Ohm speaker (watts equal voltage squared divided by impedance). If we connect a 4 Ohm speaker, halving the original load, the same 20 Volts would now produce 100 watts, and further, 200 watts into 2 Ohms. From this example we clearly see that each time the load resistance is halved, the amplifier should ideally double its output. This high current capability is especially important if the loudspeaker impedance dips into a very low range. To make this happen, the amplifiers’ the power supply must also double its current delivery to the output transistors for this equation to hold up. The continued doubling must stop at some point, the progression cannot go on forever and, if carried too far, could end in disaster. Either the power supply will run out of current and fail to maintain the amplifiers output wattage, or worse, go beyond the capability of the output devices, creating excessive heat and eventually destruction of the transistors.

http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/spkramp.html
 
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I ran the gauntlet of trial and error then finally settled on a high quality 400 amp after my stock radio with DC gold speakers to match, not cheap but that is a relevant term. I have fantastic quality and plenty of volume. Base is incredible and I can hear highs I never knew were in the songs. I played with several makes of speakers and never found a good match so I started over and did it right. Just to kick it up a notch further I added a 300 watt bass woofer to get a little cage rattling.

At freeway speeds it sounds as good as at idle, naturally at a higher volume of course. I am a happy camper now, the new speakers fit the old enclosures and the amp hides under the tupperware. I do have the base woofer in the frunk but I can take it out in a couple of minutes when I need to have more space.
 
I'm thinking of these JBL speakers too.
Mike told me about you guys installing them.
Been a while since you installed them.
Any issues ??

Tommy J.
 
JBL SPEAKERS

I'm thinking of these JBL speakers too.
Mike told me about you guys installing them.
Been a while since you installed them.
Any issues ??

Tommy J.
...Hi, Tommy. Yes the heading is a TYPO it should be -" JBL "- and after over a year things are fine. MagDave made comments above but didn't answer this " why do the tech's at JBL say going from 4 ohms to 2 ohms is not a problem ". He MAY be correct that running the system at absolute MAX for extended periods of time MIGHT cause an issue. But let me be clear.......NO ONE WOULD DO THIS --- THEY WOULD DAMAGE ---THEIR HEARING --- THE JBL's CAN PLAY EXTREMELY LOUD & CLEAR & CLEAN un-like the OEM's.......and all for about $125.00 ..... you can find these speakers on E-bay.......My system will be at Spyderfest 2016, so you can hear it for yourself. Bring an MP3 or other device with YOUR favorite tunes and you LISTEN before you do this......Mike :thumbup:
 
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Thanks Mike !!!

:clap: I think I'm gone run with these JBL's and install them before SpyderFest. So I can have them for the ride down to SpyderFest !!!

Thanks for your help Mike !!!! :cheers:

Tommy J.
 
NEW SPEAKER HOLE SIZE

Thanks Mike !!!

:clap: I think I'm gone run with these JBL's and install them before SpyderFest. So I can have them for the ride down to SpyderFest !!!

Thanks for your help Mike !!!! :cheers:

Tommy J.
...This will save everyone some time......from paper or thin cardboard make a template - a disc 4 5/8" in dia. this is the size of the hole you will need for the JBL 508c speaker to fit......so you need to enlarge the OEM hole to 4 5/8"....Deanna777has some pics in her " latest started threads relating to this project................Mike :thumbup:
 
so are the speakers that come with the spyder not a standard size physically where you can buy replacement speakers without modifying the holes?
 
NEW SPEAKER HOLE SIZE

so are the speakers that come with the spyder not a standard size physically where you can buy replacement speakers without modifying the holes?
....On the RT ..the front are standard ( 5.25 " )........the rear are custom made for BRP they are actually 4.25, which makes it easy to put in the JBL's in the rear because they are less than 5.25,.............Mike :thumbup:
 
This is for anyone who wants to see Mikes(Blueknight911) pictures of his JBL rear speakers on his RT: go to " Pic's of how I put 5.25" speakers in the rear of any RT" Thread started by Deanna777.

Deanna
 
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