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Jacking points for the F3

Rattlebars

New member
I searched this board for jacking points yesterday because I'm doing my 3K inspection and oil change. I found many references to the A arms and rear shock with admonishments to NEVER USE EITHER. One fellow said that he put the front wheels on ramps and jacked the rear with the shock tower. He got the same admonishments from many respondents. I have an MC/ATV lift, but for the F3 the balance point requires me to put the pads so that removing the drain plugs would be next to impossible. So, I did my due diligence and searched the F3 service manual and found on pages 473 and 679 the following:
jacking.jpg
 
Lower suspension makes perfect sense. Thats how i do it. Afterall, the wheels are attached to that and they are actually holding the bike up 24/7. Common sense really.
 
Thanks Rattlebars, :bowdown: I have never seen that, but I did see the advice on the forum saying don't lift the Spyder at the rear shock. I should have known better than to take advice purely at face value, and done some further checking:opps:

That's an F3-L (or T), too, which is a different bottom shock fitting (4" wide) from other F3s. I sometimes want to get the rear off the ground just to check things, so a trip to the auto store for a floor jack is in order.

Actually, this would be brilliant for pumping up the rear tire, as it would probably be quicker and less body contorting than rolling the F3 forward/backward until I can see the valve (usually 3 attempts), getting right down flat on the floor, forgetting the pump and getting back up off the floor:banghead:, getting back down on the floor, pumping up the tyre, using WD40 on the knees to unlock them:helpsmilie:, and getting back to my feet with accompanying moaning, groaning and creaking, followed by two weeks of physio rehab:(

Pete
 
Yup, that's how I did it last weekend to wax the back wheel. Jacked up the front too one side at a time. Put the jack right under the shocks. Just so I wouldn't damage anything I had a rag over the jack cup.
 
If you changing the rear shock you Cannot jack it up by the shock?? Where am I wrong here. With 3 Spyders I always Jack from the Main Frame before the Cat Converter.
 
If you changing the rear shock you Cannot jack it up by the shock?? Where am I wrong here. With 3 Spyders I always Jack from the Main Frame before the Cat Converter.

It would definitely present some "logistical problems" jacking it up at the rear shock, if you were trying to change the rear shock, Sarge.;) But no one is talking about doing that here. The rear shock is definitely a main frame lift. :thumbup:

Pete
 
Thanks Rattlebars, :bowdown: I have never seen that, but I did see the advice on the forum saying don't lift the Spyder at the rear shock. I should have known better than to take advice purely at face value, and done some further checking:opps:

That's an F3-L (or T), too, which is a different bottom shock fitting (4" wide) from other F3s. I sometimes want to get the rear off the ground just to check things, so a trip to the auto store for a floor jack is in order.

Actually, this would be brilliant for pumping up the rear tire, as it would probably be quicker and less body contorting than rolling the F3 forward/backward until I can see the valve (usually 3 attempts), getting right down flat on the floor, forgetting the pump and getting back up off the floor:banghead:, getting back down on the floor, pumping up the tyre, using WD40 on the knees to unlock them:helpsmilie:, and getting back to my feet with accompanying moaning, groaning and creaking, followed by two weeks of physio rehab:(

Pete


Serious about the WD40 on the knees? I've heard that it's actually made from grapefruit and many people do actually use WD40 as a lubricant like that.... Not kidding here. Your post caught my attention. (All can laugh and roll eyes, but I've heard this from several different sources yet really never believed it.)
 
Serious about the WD40 on the knees? I've heard that it's actually made from grapefruit and many people do actually use WD40 as a lubricant like that.... Not kidding here. Your post caught my attention. (All can laugh and roll eyes, but I've heard this from several different sources yet really never believed it.)

No, I wasn't serious as I have never tried it, Trlblzr. I have a couple of friends of friends who reckon it works for them, but their claims are unsubstantiated. I would not advise trying it as it contains petroleum distillates, and medicos have been unable to find anything in WD40 that could possibly alleviate knee pain. It would do more harm than good in my unqualified opinion.:shocked:

Pete
 
I have a rubber pad on my floor jack and always lift my RT by the rear shock mount. Works great and gets the rear off the ground good. I tried lifting at the back of the spar frame but seems the frame is soft and wants to dent in there. So shock mount it is.
 
If you changing the rear shock you Cannot jack it up by the shock?? Where am I wrong here. With 3 Spyders I always Jack from the Main Frame before the Cat Converter.

Didn't see a smiley wink and I thought you were joking. Anyway, a bit of common sense would tell you not to put your buggy on car ramps to remove the front wheels either. ;) Same would apply here.

Thanks Rattlebars, :bowdown:

That's an F3-L (or T), too, which is a different bottom shock fitting (4" wide) from other F3s. I sometimes want to get the rear off the ground just to check things, so a trip to the auto store for a floor jack is in order.

That is a Walmart style jack shown. You can get one fro $24 there >CLICK ME< I got the one I use for $14 open box on sale. It was right next to the WD-40. :)

Actually, this would be brilliant for pumping up the rear tire, as it would probably be quicker and less body contorting than rolling the F3 forward/backward until I can see the valve (usually 3 attempts), getting right down flat on the floor, forgetting the pump and getting back up off the floor:banghead:, getting back down on the floor, pumping up the tyre, using WD40 on the knees to unlock them:helpsmilie:, and getting back to my feet with accompanying moaning, groaning and creaking, followed by two weeks of physio rehab:(

Pete
When I had my GL1800, I would locate the rear stem using a large mirror also from Wally World. You had to bend over a little, but you could hold onto the seat rail and much easier on the knees.
21aZokTxp1L._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg


I have a rubber pad on my floor jack and always lift my RT by the rear shock mount. Works great and gets the rear off the ground good. I tried lifting at the back of the spar frame but seems the frame is soft and wants to dent in there. So shock mount it is.

Needs a small cup tho. Not room enough for a large jack. In a pinch, I can use the bottle jack from my Lexus LX470. Screw jack from a small car (say Cruze) would fit too. I might look into a pad for my big jack. Sadly, my ATV/MC lift jack uses a balance point which puts a rail directly below the left drain plug. :gaah:
 
Chet, I got the part about the jack stand under the lower A arms, but where did you place the floor jack to lift the front end? Did you lift the whole front end or one side at a time? I am going to adjust my shocks on the F3T and need to relieve the pressure on the shocks and most likely have to jack the bike front end up to let the wheels extend and take weight off the front end so I can back off the lock nut and take a turn and lock up the jam nut again.
Buckskin

I searched this board for jacking points yesterday because I'm doing my 3K inspection and oil change. I found many references to the A arms and rear shock with admonishments to NEVER USE EITHER. One fellow said that he put the front wheels on ramps and jacked the rear with the shock tower. He got the same admonishments from many respondents. I have an MC/ATV lift, but for the F3 the balance point requires me to put the pads so that removing the drain plugs would be next to impossible. So, I did my due diligence and searched the F3 service manual and found on pages 473 and 679 the following:
jacking.jpg
 
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