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Jacking front for a tyre change

papanorm

New member
I'd like to know how to lift the front to remove both tyres. I have floor jacks that i can use either under A arms or center frame. I am dropping the Kenda's and going with Continental contiprocontact 175/55/15 and excited about the handling improvement


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Depends....

Under the A arms if doing one at a time, under the main frame (front) to do both. A stands to support your work...:thumbup:
 
I have two floor jacks only and will be removing both wheels at the same time. I suspect with that equipment I should be able to have the machine more stable with jacking each side up. :thumbup:
 
Are there any of those places around that allow you to rent tools for the day?
Something like "Rent-A-Center"? :dontknow:
It's probably better to lift the bike from it's belly, and just use your jacks under the A-arms to steady it a bit...
 
Put a piece of wood or 3/4 " plywood on the jack plate and under the A-Arm,

I have two floor jacks only and will be removing both wheels at the same time. I suspect with that equipment I should be able to have the machine more stable with jacking each side up. :thumbup:

FIRST: Make sure parking brake is set. NEXT: Break loose lug nuts while still on the ground. A 13/16" thin wall spark plug socket works wonderfully.

Then jack it up one side at a time until the tire is free, and make sure jacks are stable. Support with blocks if leaving for a time.

Remove lug nuts and wheels and take them to have the tires swapped out. Take a look at the brake pads if you're over 10,000 miles. My fronts lasted over 20,000 miles.

Inspect / Clean / replace wheels and lightly seat lugs. Return to the ground and torque evenly to 75-80 ft/lbs
 
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That sounds like the best way to go for what tools I have. I know that some hydraulic jacks don't hold after a while and blocks may be needed. I have jack stands as well. but don't need to lift too high for this so won't be using them. Appreciate the good advice.:thumbup:
 
Norm, make sure you have a loooong breaker bar. Those wheel nuts are very, very tight the first time you remove them.;)
 
Norm, make sure you have a loooong breaker bar. Those wheel nuts are very, very tight the first time you remove them.;)

I remember you saying that when you changed your fronts - just one more challenge


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I remember you saying that when you changed your fronts - just one more challenge

Lol.......it's not really a challenge once you know about it and realise that you aren't doing something wrong.......it's the rear axle (I know you are doing the fronts) that creates a real problem though. I had to buy a 10' breaker bar, climb to the top of my 18' ladder and jump down very accurately on to the bar to loosen the bolt. I then had to repair all the cracks in my concrete floor from the resultant crater that was left, and explain to the police why the Bureau of Seismology had recorded a force 7 earthquake at my address. But it's alright now ! :ohyea:

I am looking forward to meeting Finless Bob one day, as he managed to remove his axle bolts with a standard spanner. He MUST have 54" biceps :clap:

Pete
 
I hear that it can be done but I myself could not live without my yellow ATV jack.
 

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Follow up
I invested in the Craftsman aluminum atv/motorcycle jack and am very pleased with the outcome. I took all of the great advice shared and enjoyed a very easy job getting the wheels on and off. I had the tyre shop mount the Conti's in 175/55/15 and brought them back for a non-eventful install.
The new tyres transformed the bike into a much better, smoother, more delightful handling machine. They are confidence inspiring in the curves and love the result. BTW, the tyre guy said the tyres that came off were crap)


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