Review: Wilbers 630/640 Shocks on 2017 RTL

[askitee]

I fitted the Wilbers 630 Front shocks and 640 Rear with the 625 remote adjuster. Here is my experience with them on my RTL.

Model : 2017 RT Ltd
Tyres : Kenda front, Nankang Rear

I reversed out of the garage with the wheels dropping over the 20mm (3/4") lip from my garage floor to the driveway moving about 2m (6') and already I could feel the difference. It was that noticeable.

The 1st thing I noticed driving around for my test ride was that there is far far less vibration shaking the front as I travel along the road. Looking down you see the suspension doing what its meant to, keep the tyre on the road, but you notice the front end is bobbing up and down and "you aint feeling it" this becomes mesmerizing realizing "this is myyyyyyy god damn RTL" The rear is doing the same.

1st brake into a corner and the bike feels like it now has antidive - the front stays firm, with no front end dropping away beneath you. This will be interesting on the winding highways.

On subsequent rides I begin to awe at the talent of the people who design, assemble and calibrate these to my requirements.

On the 1st road trip (short one approx. 300km's) the way the suspension soaks up the rough stuff is noticeable. You notice the lack of shake and shimmy of the windscreen and dash. You feel the valving working on the real rough stuff (those things we called Stutter Bumps in MotoX that our roads authority deems as Imperfections). You feel the bike being controlled negotiating the rough roads, all the while keeping the rubber firmly planted on the road. My VF1000FII had all of these adjustments plus air in the front. It’s not as good as the VF where you would set your suspension to suit the load and ride, if the road got rougher sometimes you'd slow down, others you'd increase speed, to find that happy cruising point in the suspension where it soaks everything up and you "float." Cornering is far more direct, not to the point of being on rails obviously but firm enough to improve the handling, soft enough to deal with the road imperfections and not upset that elderly lady who may visit.

Two up and its more of the same, but you feel the valving taking out the rear wallowing up and down where it normally would happen with the std shock.

I can see much longer journeys with much less fatigue from wrestling with the old suspension.

In sportier riding the bike is much more capable, and gets the rubber to work that much better. Braking hard sees the fronts really working the Kenda's on the front - can't wait to see what better rubber will do.

I am leaving the factory settings for 30 days to get to know the shocks personally then will experiment with the adjustments available.

What’s in the box?

• 2 x Wilbers 630 Shocks (front)
• 1 x Wilber 640 shock (rear)
• 1 x remote Preload adjuster and mounting kit
• New spacers
• C Spanner
• Your calibration details on card - don’t throw it away

Lessons learned.

• Take all your Sag measurements beforehand and record these for reference. It will help you understand more about your "new gift from the gods" and adjustments will be made with confidence (meaning in the right way).
• Replacing the rear is a piece of cake; the front is right up there with banging your finger with a hammer repeatedly. I called a mate for a second opinion - he has long arms and did most of the arm work. Get yourself a 1/2" knuckle joint for the tasks - it makes getting the ratchet and torque wrench in the right place much easier.
• Mounting the bracket for the rear preload is dead easy, I twisted mine a little to reduce the amount of twist in the line.
• The air spring "on the fly adjustment" seems to have an issue. At 1st I thought it was a problem, if you adjust the setting while travelling it reports an error then reverts to manual mode. I have since learnt to set the Air Spring while stationary. I suspect the compressor is trying to inflate the air spring, and getting too much resistance from the rear shock valving, and therefore throwing an error code. Now I just set it and leave it, the shocks are doing a better job anyway and the error has not returned.

Ordering
When you order the shocks it's just like other vendors, with questions about weights 1 up and 2 up, plus riding attire weight, riding style (sport or soft) and any other preferences. I chose middle of the range between soft and sport.

Where'd I get em?
Online at https://suspensionsrus.com.au/suspensionsrus/index.php. They were great to deal with, fast and efficient. I am going to provide my experience with the Air Spring error as He admitted he hadn't sold many kits for RT's from Wilbers (the cost shy's them away).


Cost
$2400 not including fitting

Stop press
Yesterday a friend came to visit on his 2014 RTL with his significant other on the back. His RTL has the front spring adjusters.

I suggested we swap bikes to see what he and his wife thought. I stopped about 20kms into the journey to see if they wanted to adjust anything - big grins on both their faces accompanied "OMG no this is perfect". When we pulled up to swap back about 50kms further, they had already begun discussing finding the funds to acquire the same...

 

[trikermutha]

Is it a Wilber's shock or Elkas Shocks? And they are a vendor for Elka's?

The reason I am asking is the picture shows Elka's.

 

[DGoebel]

They carry several brands including Wilbers and Elkas.

 

[askitee]

Is it a Wilber's shock or Elkas Shocks? And they are a vendor for Elka's?

The reason I am asking is the picture shows Elka's.

HI Trikermutha, mine are Wilbers

 

[PMK]

I read on your other topic / post, how when you raced dirtbikes, your team manager insisted you learned to recognize and know when to change clicker settings. As a longtime suspension tuner, I still suspect that once your optimized settings are found, chances of making changes will be minimal if any. Unlike a dirt bike, the road surfaces are fairly constant with very minor changes in grip.

Dial them in, and enjoy those Wilburs. Years ago, at a moto trade show I saw the Wilburs. Very nice items. Here in the USA, I am not even sure if anyone is a dealer for them. Spyder wise, most people tend to go with Elka.

When you want your Spyder to truly handle well, put some good tires on the front, not sure about your rear tire, but upgrading the tires was certainly a huge performance increase.

I still wish Ohlins were available when we upgraded our setup. Not any complaints about the BRP aftermarket Fox units we got. Perform very well and not overpriced.

 

[askitee]

I read on your other topic / post, how when you raced dirtbikes, your team manager insisted you learned to recognize and know when to change clicker settings. As a longtime suspension tuner, I still suspect that once your optimized settings are found, chances of making changes will be minimal if any. Unlike a dirt bike, the road surfaces are fairly constant with very minor changes in grip.

Dial them in, and enjoy those Wilburs. Years ago, at a moto trade show I saw the Wilburs. Very nice items. Here in the USA, I am not even sure if anyone is a dealer for them. Spyder wise, most people tend to go with Elka.

When you want your Spyder to truly handle well, put some good tires on the front, not sure about your rear tire, but upgrading the tires was certainly a huge performance increase.

I still wish Ohlins were available when we upgraded our setup. Not any complaints about the BRP aftermarket Fox units we got. Perform very well and not overpriced.

Thanks PMK, I change them for two up vs solo, and between Country Rd use vs Freeway riding. I have the Nankang on the rear and cant wait to get rid of the Kenda's on the front though. I am a fan of the Ohlins myself. Am about to head off to get a wheel alignment done, 600km round trip, its blowing a gale - wish I could add something to make windy days more enjoyable - it is the only weather I hate riding in.

 

[PMK]

Thanks PMK, I change them for two up vs solo, and between Country Rd use vs Freeway riding. I have the Nankang on the rear and cant wait to get rid of the Kenda's on the front though. I am a fan of the Ohlins myself. Am about to head off to get a wheel alignment done, 600km round trip, its blowing a gale - wish I could add something to make windy days more enjoyable - it is the only weather I hate riding in.

Rebound clicker change or ?

All the best on the alignment. Once aligned, do not alter front preload, it will change the front toe via bump steer effect.

As for wind, I aligned our Spyder myself and stability in the wind is very good. No doubt better front tires help also.