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jack position to remove front wheels

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nothing in the owner manual, looking to take the front wheels to a shop to replace and balance front tires... where to position the Jack? don't like the looks of putting tha pressure on the arms connected to the front wheels? not much on youtube either... (or I'm searching for the wrong thing...)
 
nothing in the owner manual, looking to take the front wheels to a shop to replace and balance front tires... where to position the Jack? don't like the looks of putting tha pressure on the arms connected to the front wheels? not much on youtube either... (or I'm searching for the wrong thing...)

:agree: ….The frame is always the best point from a strength standpoint ….. However I have an Auto scissor style jack that I re-moved the ring and welded a 5/8 nut to ….. to change a wheel put a small sturdy piece of wood on top of the jack so it spans both arms of the suspension close to the wheel and just lift it enough to re-move that wheel..... good luck …. Mike :ohyea:
 
thanks, strange there isnt a easy sturdy place to jack the bike up along the road and go het your tire repaired.... so is the a arm stinger closer to the wheel?
 
thanks, strange there isnt a easy sturdy place to jack the bike up along the road and go het your tire repaired.... so is the a arm stinger closer to the wheel?

" stinger " ????? did you mean " stronger " …. if so Yes, try this for proof … place the ends of an 8 ft., 2 x 4 on small blocks or bricks etc. …. step on the 2x4 near the block , it doesn't move …. now step in the middle, it moves a lot ….WHY ? , because that's where it's weakest..... hope this helps ….. Mike :ohyea:
 
" stinger " ????? did you mean " stronger " …. if so Yes, try this for proof … place the ends of an 8 ft., 2 x 4 on small blocks or bricks etc. …. step on the 2x4 near the block , it doesn't move …. now step in the middle, it moves a lot ….WHY ? , because that's where it's weakest..... hope this helps ….. Mike :ohyea:


yes, stronger.... it was late... I'd want to think the point closest the frame would be best, but my thinking may be off. thanks, I'll mess with it today.... tires get delivered sometime today, so.... can't put this off much longer... never thought taking a wheel off could be so stressful... lol
 
Hey Blue Night, Just curious, What's the 5/8" nut used for? (Raising the Jack.) ....:thumbup:

On every scissor jack I have seen … the threaded shaft ( that when turned, raises or lowers the scissor mechanism ) … And has a metal ring at the end.... where the winding tool is inserted …. this is cumbersome and quite time consuming to operate …. I cut off the Ring and welded the 5/8 nut in it's place...… I can now use my cordless drill,( with a socket ) and this speeds things up considerably. If I use a ratchet, I can adjust the height almost microscopely...…. Mike :ohyea:
 
Some of the tightest Lugs, I've come across in a good while..... applied some anti seize for that unexpected emergency along the road... I see a design flaw...... Wheels are off, and will have the new ones on tomorrow... Thanks for the tips....
 

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Some of the tightest Lugs, I've come across in a good while..... applied some anti seize for that unexpected emergency along the road... I see a design flaw...... Wheels are off, and will have the new ones on tomorrow... Thanks for the tips....

:agree: imho BRP exceeds their own Torque requirements ….. and I have used NeverSeize on everything since I can remember..... Mike :ohyea:
 
:agree: imho BRP exceeds their own Torque requirements ….. and I have used NeverSeize on everything since I can remember..... Mike :ohyea:

Yes, I use anti seize on anything I may want to take apart again. However, I now use red Loctite on my license plate nuts and bolts since I had my plate stolen a couple weeks ago. Any ne'er-do-well with a dime in their pocket can swipe a license plate.
 
Yes, I use anti seize on anything I may want to take apart again. However, I now use red Loctite on my license plate nuts and bolts since I had my plate stolen a couple weeks ago. Any ne'er-do-well with a dime in their pocket can swipe a license plate.

Many Years ago they use to just rip my license off my car since they are only held in with plastic and a bolt. Ended up using a steel plate and carriage bolts. Then tech screwed the corners since they still tried to steal the plates. Anti Seize and thread lock does work but not for everything :thumbup:
 
On every scissor jack I have seen … the threaded shaft ( that when turned, raises or lowers the scissor mechanism ) … And has a metal ring at the end.... where the winding tool is inserted …. this is cumbersome and quite time consuming to operate …. I cut off the Ring and welded the 5/8 nut in it's place...… I can now use my cordless drill,( with a socket ) and this speeds things up considerably. If I use a ratchet, I can adjust the height almost microscopely...…. Mike :ohyea:

I have a old scissor jack that came out of a 1960s era Cadillac Ambulance that has a 3/4" head on the acme threaded shaft that needs 2 men and a boy to lift (not really, but it's freakin' heavy). Probably weighs as much as one of the front tires on a Spyder.
 
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