Its Back!!!! Throttle body code

[jroberts650]

Well I have a little good news, even though it's a little odd. I pulled the panels and started the bike, wiggled the wires and connections going to the throttle body and the idle evened out. I shut off the bike and also removed an aux cable that i use for my xm radio, it was routed above the throttle body, and when I restarted the idle was fine. The engine light flashed for a few seconds and then went off. The codes still displayed when I checked but no limp home and no engine light.

I also restarted and let it idle, revved it a few times and everything was back to normal. Maybe the aux cable? Maybe the connectors? I'll dig into it a little more as I have time this week. Maybe unplug the connectors, clean them and use some electrical grease.

 

[Upcoaster]

Hello @jroberts650.
Just curious how this saga turned out for you.
I also have a 2010 I picked up last October. She was barely used with only 2700 miles on it. I put another 5300 on her this year and she's now in the shop for a new throttle body. Been researching this issue on this forum and am pretty sour'd on the Spyder after reading about how BRP isn't taking care of business by replacing a poorly made part with yet another poorly made part.
Since this post is 2 years old, I'd love to know how your ryde is faring.

I'm fairly surprised no one has ever organized a class action suit regarding this. It seems like it should have been an all-out recall but never reached that status either. I may just pursue this myself and will likely be polling this forum for interested potential class members.

TIA,
David

Well I have a little good news, even though it's a little odd. I pulled the panels and started the bike, wiggled the wires and connections going to the throttle body and the idle evened out. I shut off the bike and also removed an aux cable that i use for my xm radio, it was routed above the throttle body, and when I restarted the idle was fine. The engine light flashed for a few seconds and then went off. The codes still displayed when I checked but no limp home and no engine light.

I also restarted and let it idle, revved it a few times and everything was back to normal. Maybe the aux cable? Maybe the connectors? I'll dig into it a little more as I have time this week. Maybe unplug the connectors, clean them and use some electrical grease.

 

[Grandpot]

There a few things that need to be looked at before replacing the Throttle Body.

1. There is a service bulletin that has you clean the Butterfly Shaft pivot points. I've never had one stick, but I do it as a regular maintenance.
2. If you have a code stating the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) needs to be replaced, you can do it without replacing the entire Throttle Body. It is very simple to do and costs around $80. You will need a BUDS system to sync it in.
3. Wiring from the TPS to the ECU is direct. There are no additional splices or terminals. Your most likely culprit is the connection at the TPS. That's most likely why jroberts650's unit started working again after shaking some wires. Next time you get a failure, remove and then insert the connector at the TPS without touching anything else. If it works, you found the problem. DO NOT put any Electrical Grease on those connections. This is a very sensitive 5 volt signal. Silicon grease will mess it up. Silicon grease works great on 12V lighting circuits, but not well on a 5V analog device.

 

[pegasus1300]

Along with doing what Grandpot suggests you should also replace the MAP vacuum tubes with silicon tubes. The factory ones are prone to breaking down from heat and age. I got mine from NAPA.

 

[PMK]

In the past, the owner of this website frowned on class action lawsuit discussions in the posts / topics, so any plans you might have may to discuss this with others here may be swept away in short time.

Accomplish the proper maintenance steps, then if the BRP recommended steps cure your issue realize you have a maintenance problem, or possibly a dealer problem. If the throttle body has truly been installed with known defects that warrants additional concerns. My opinion is you are seeing a owner maintenance / dealer issue, and once correctly diagnosed and maintained you should be reliably riding again, provided you correctly maintain the vehicle.

 

[Upcoaster]

It happened again. My 2010 is throwing P1614 after only about 1200 miles since the throttle body was replaced with the 3rd generation part in September. I always run premium fuel and use Sea Foam or Lucas fuel treatment every 3rd tank or so. Aaaargh! This is the 3rd time this bike has stranded me 100+ miles from home. My confidence in this machine is completely shattered at this point.

Prior to owning a Spyder, I'd never even had need to become familiar with what a throttle body is/does let alone be staring at repair bills of $1,200 or more every thousand miles (or thereabouts). Given how much these things retail for, the Can Am Spyder should be the ultimate performance/luxury sport-touring platform. Not so much. I've owned 1 Suzuki, 2 Honda, 1 Kawasaki sport-touring class machines and NEVER had lame issues like this. Thought I was stepping up when graduating to a Spyder but it's really clear this was a downgrade.

Super disappointed. Shame on you Can-Am for not classifying this chronic issue as a full-on recall and doing right by Spyder owners. I really want to like this bike but I'm pretty much over it.