It appears my Spyder has an oil leak..

[Greg H.]

A beautiful day in the Midsouth today w/temps reaching 70+. I knew, I was going for a ride, anyway. But, this was the nicest day here in a couple of weeks. I washed it early, and headed out around noon while my Wife, Brother-in-law, and Son were completing things for the dinner tonight.

My ride was about 120 miles. I got home, and noticed on the right side behind the fan there was some dampness in a couple of spots. And, I noticed this before a couple of times, but didn't think much about it since it was behind the fan.

I'm just about to turn 3,900 miles. And, I'm due for the next oil change at 4,150. I decided to pull the panel, and check the oil level. It's just below the 'add' mark. I was quite surprised. Yet; the engine oil light has never lighted. There is no oil on the garage floor, and there never has been.

Not sure what's going on. But, I think there is a leak.

 

[NancysToy]

Don't be so sure. If you have been checking your oil level frequently, and using exactly the same method every time, a sudden drop could indicate a problem, but it could have been this way all along if you haven't checked recently. Please realize that if the oil pressure light comes on, it is far too late...your engine is toast! You do not want to ever see that light!!! This is a dry sump system, so the idea is to keep enough oil in the tank to feed the engine, so the pump never runs dry. Lots of Spyders have shown variation in the level, though, due to temperatures, checking procedures, and even how much oil was added when serviced. Add some oil and monitor it closely.

The wetness could be coolant. Check the coolant level. If low, check that the cap is on the second "catch", not the first notch. Otherwise, have the dealer check for leaks. There have been some leakage problems reported at gaskets and hoses.
-Scotty

 

[sleepman]

When was your last oil change?

 

[Greg H.]

Don't be so sure. If you have been checking your oil level frequently, and using exactly the same method every time, a sudden drop could indicate a problem, but it could have been this way all along if you haven't checked recently. Please realize that if the oil pressure light comes on, it is far too late...your engine is toast! You do not want to ever see that light!!! This is a dry sump system, so the idea is to keep enough oil in the tank to feed the engine, so the pump never runs dry. Lots of Spyders have shown variation in the level, though, due to temperatures, checking procedures, and even how much oil was added when serviced. Add some oil and monitor it closely.

The wetness could be coolant. Check the coolant level. If low, check that the cap is on the second "catch", not the first notch. Otherwise, have the dealer check for leaks. There have been some leakage problems reported at gaskets and hoses.
-Scotty

Good information, Scotty! And, very much appreciated, for sure. Yeah! The Spyder is running great! Perfect! But, that really got my attention, ya know. I'm going over to the dealer tomorrow after we get the Christmas decor up, and tell them what's happening. Maybe they can check things out then. I really want to do more riding this weekend, without worries.
I'm going to have a look at the coolant level tonight, or in the morning.

When was your last oil change?

1,150 miles was my first oil change.

 

[spyder13]

If it's on the r side behind the fan it's probably leaking out of the air box. It's common and there are a couple of fixes. 1 put a piece of air breather type material in the hose from the motor to air box. 2 add a catch can in line with the breather hose. 3 install ken's race filter set up. I have done the last to. Ken's is the best way to go.

 

[Buelldog]

Moisture or Oil film residue??

If it's oil film residue , appearing as a damp spot, it is probably oil blow leaking from the air box.....if it is not oily then it is coolant leak.Wipe it with a clean paper towel.....that should give you a clue!!Lots of members have had the oil blow by leak from the airbox.

 

[Greg H.]

If it's on the r side behind the fan it's probably leaking out of the air box. It's common and there are a couple of fixes. 1 put a piece of air breather type material in the hose from the motor to air box. 2 add a catch can in line with the breather hose. 3 install ken's race filter set up. I have done the last to. Ken's is the best way to go.

Yep! Maybe, I need to check into Ken's Race Filter. It is appearing as spots.

If it's oil film residue , appearing as a damp spot, it is probably oil blow leaking from the air box.....if it is not oily then it is coolant leak.Wipe it with a clean paper towel.....that should give you a clue!!Lots of members have had the oil blow by leak from the airbox.

It's oily. No question.

 

[Lamonster]

It's blowby from the airbox.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=58955&postcount=64

 

[NancysToy]

It's blowby from the airbox.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=58955&postcount=64

That being established, there should not be enough blowby to cause you to use a significant amount of oil, and lower the oil level. If you are really losing oil, and the low level is not just a result of the amount filled, or the checking technique, see the dealer. Oil losses from blowby should be next to nothing.
-Scotty

 

[Greg H.]

Thanks everyone for all the responses. First thing, I'm going to do is add some oil. And, keep an eye on it the next few days. I guess, I'll go ahead, and top off with the Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40, for now, since I can get it within 6 miles at Wal-Mart or AutoZone.

The 3,000 mile mark (since last oil change) will be arriving this weekend, if the weather holds. So; my plan is to take it in for the service next week.

 

[Lamonster]

That being established, there should not be enough blowby to cause you to use a significant amount of oil, and lower the oil level. If you are really losing oil, and the low level is not just a result of the amount filled, or the checking technique, see the dealer. Oil losses from blowby should be next to nothing.
-Scotty

I wouldn't call being on the add mark a "significant amount of oil". He has pretty low miles on his spyder so I think what he's seeing oil level wise would be normal. Blowby is what's causing the drip or leak he's seeing.

By the way your oil light is not there to tell you when you need to add oil, it's there to tell you that you pretty much smoked your motor. This is a dry sump so it doesn't know if you have 4 quarts or if you're 2 quarts low. It's just a tank to hold your oil and I wouldn't be too concerned with it being a little low.

 

[Greg H.]

I wouldn't call being on the add mark a "significant amount of oil". He has pretty low miles on his spyder so I think what he's seeing oil level wise would be normal. Blowby is what's causing the drip or leak he's seeing.

By the way your oil light is not there to tell you when you need to add oil, it's there to tell you that you pretty much smoked your motor. This is a dry sump so it doesn't know if you have 4 quarts or if you're 2 quarts low. It's just a tank to hold your oil and I wouldn't be too concerned with it being a little low.

Hi Lamont! Yeah! As Scotty mentioned last evening regarding the 'Oil Light', glad that baby hasn't lighted! :yikes: And, I checked again this morning after letting the engine warm to 3 bars. It's below the add mark, for sure.

 

[Lamonster]

Unless you clean out the air box it will continue to leak. If the oil is low add some, it's cheap right now.

 

[Greg H.]

Unless you clean out the air box it will continue to leak. If the oil is low add some, it's cheap right now.

I'll have a look at the air box. Good point. Thank you! :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

I wouldn't call being on the add mark a "significant amount of oil". He has pretty low miles on his spyder so I think what he's seeing oil level wise would be normal. Blowby is what's causing the drip or leak he's seeing.

:agree: Only he can tell for certain. I would be surprised if his oil level has really changed much at all. Just bringing the gauge up to three bars is not the same as riding the Spyder and checking when you get back. Both are technically "operating temperature", but the water warms faster than the oil, so when it first hits three bars the oil is still a bit cold, and the oil level is a bit lower. From what I have seen, the level varies quite a bit depending on whether you just warm the engine, or you have just ridden the Spyder. I also agree on where the oil level should be. I don't know why the dipstick is marked so tightly, and is so short. Dry sump oil level has a lot of room for variation, as long as there is oil remaining in the tank. BRP's marks seem a little tight. Oh, for a sightglass and a peek hole in the fairing. Your next mod?
-Scotty

 

[Greg H.]

:agree: Only he can tell for certain. I would be surprised if his oil level has really changed much at all. Just bringing the gauge up to three bars is not the same as riding the Spyder and checking when you get back. Both are technically "operating temperature", but the water warms faster than the oil, so when it first hits three bars the oil is still a bit cold, and the oil level is a bit lower. From what I have seen, the level varies quite a bit depending on whether you just warm the engine, or you have just ridden the Spyder. I also agree on where the oil level should be. I don't know why the dipstick is marked so tightly, and is so short. Dry sump oil level has a lot of room for variation, as long as there is oil remaining in the tank. BRP's marks seem a little tight. Oh, for a sightglass and a peek hole in the fairing. Your next mod?
-Scotty

:thumbup: Thanks Scotty. 'Tell you what; owning a Spyder is made so much better (and easier), with folks like you, and Lamont around. And, kudos, as well, to Deb regarding a few questions I had about the installation of my Triple Play lights.:clap:

I just got home a little while ago, and added some Rotella to the reservoir. I guess it was about a 1/2 qt. to bring the level in the middle between the Full Line and Add Line. Then; I removed the front panels, and tank panel to have a look at the air box. It was quite oily. I wiped it down good, and looked at the filter. Still looks new.

 

[NancysToy]

Sounds like you found your "leak". It depends on whether that kind of stuff bothers you or not, you can rig a cure. I ride old Brit bikes, so a little oil is no concern to me. I like the idea of the filter foam in the tube to reduce the airbox oiling. Catch cans, hose rerouting, etc. have also been mentioned in various posts. Try a search for "airbox oil". Keep in mind that a little oil goes a long way. Oil naturally tries to spread out to a slick one molecule thick, so a single drop can cover a very large area. Don't be alarmed by "a lot of oil". Also, your level may have been down since your 600 mile service. The specified four quarts doesn't quite bring our Spyder up to the mark. You'll get a better idea of use by checking frequently for a while.

The oil change isn't so tough, but you need a few tools, the proper oil, a filter, and both crush washers and the O-ring. You can usually reuse the washers and O-ring, but it pays to have a spare handy. Some dealers don't even stock everything. Guys like Lamont and I probably get carried away, with the Torx sockets, and torque wrenches, but I believe you can do this with your Spyder tool set. The O&M manual has the procedure. Just take your time to make sure everything slips together without pinching an O-ring or crushing the filter. Be sure and record the oil and filter change and the other inspections for warranty purposes, and keep your sales slips as proof.
-Scotty

 

[Greg H.]

Sounds like you found your "leak". It depends on whether that kind of stuff bothers you or not, you can rig a cure. I ride old Brit bikes, so a little oil is no concern to me. I like the idea of the filter foam in the tube to reduce the airbox oiling. Catch cans, hose rerouting, etc. have also been mentioned in various posts. Try a search for "airbox oil". Keep in mind that a little oil goes a long way. Oil naturally tries to spread out to a slick one molecule thick, so a single drop can cover a very large area. Don't be alarmed by "a lot of oil". Also, your level may have been down since your 600 mile service. The specified four quarts doesn't quite bring our Spyder up to the mark. You'll get a better idea of use by checking frequently for a while.

The oil change isn't so tough, but you need a few tools, the proper oil, a filter, and both crush washers and the O-ring. You can usually reuse the washers and O-ring, but it pays to have a spare handy. Some dealers don't even stock everything. Guys like Lamont and I probably get carried away, with the Torx sockets, and torque wrenches, but I believe you can do this with your Spyder tool set. The O&M manual has the procedure. Just take your time to make sure everything slips together without pinching an O-ring or crushing the filter. Be sure and record the oil and filter change and the other inspections for warranty purposes, and keep your sales slips as proof.
-Scotty

And, like some mentioned previously, removing the airbox lid is a little tricky. But, not too bad. I also saw what Lamont did using a catch can in the lower line. I might do something like that or a piece of foam. I want to see a photo of that little trick.

Regarding the oil change, I need to determine if I have enough room underneath with an oil pan, that I currently have. And, I might have the right tools in another set that I have been using for the panel removal. I guess, I could save $30-$40 if I did this myself.

Thanks for the great input!