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Is there an easy way to change the key barrel on a 622 trailer?
- Thread starter Jester
- Start date
skeetshooter
New member
KEY
My new 2014 RT came with a barrel to put on trailer.I don't have a trailer:dontknow: but he said to stick new key in all the way and it would work?
My new 2014 RT came with a barrel to put on trailer.I don't have a trailer:dontknow: but he said to stick new key in all the way and it would work?
Harvey
New member
TRAILER KEY
When I purchased my 2013 RT Ltd & 622 trailer, I watched the mechanic install the key tumbler in the trailer. I am glad he did it, because it is an involved process. Keying the new tumbler is simple as inserting the key to set the tumblers, but changing out the tumbler, I would take it to a BRP dealer and pay the extra $$$ to save the frustration.
When I purchased my 2013 RT Ltd & 622 trailer, I watched the mechanic install the key tumbler in the trailer. I am glad he did it, because it is an involved process. Keying the new tumbler is simple as inserting the key to set the tumblers, but changing out the tumbler, I would take it to a BRP dealer and pay the extra $$$ to save the frustration.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Don't the 2014's come with a 622 trailer lock key barrel in the glove box to fit your key like the 2013's did? Or is that what you need to know, how toswap out the key barrel?
This thread help any? http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?35038-Replacing-barrel-lock-on-RT-622-Trailer
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
This is a complex procedure taking up three pages of the shop manual. I'd suggest purchasing a shop manual online, or taking the trailer to your dealer. to swap the barrels.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts. Have the new barrel but getting the old one out isn't as easy installing the first one. Nearest dealer is over a hundred miles away. Will probably disassemble the interior trim as see what I can do. Still have one of the old keys so I am not sol. Still waiting on the new wiring harness to arrive anyway.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
1. Remove inner panels
2. Remove the component support plate
3. Disconnect both latch cables. They can be pulled up to ease removal
4. Remove 4 retaining screws from the latch mechanism assembly
5. Pull main control handle assembly out of its location toward the inside of the trailer
6. Use a small screwdriver to pry out handle pivot from pivot points
7. Remove pivot from mechanism
8. Remove 2 top retaining screws from the latch plate to remove the center blank cover
9. Remove the center blank cover
10. Hold latch plate in place while removing the 2 lower retaining screws as the plate is spring loaded
11. Remove the spring and ball
12. Remove the key barrel actuator cover
13. Insert key in key barrel
14. Turn key 1/2 turn until the retaining tab is aligned with the notch
Note: in case key is lost or lock mechanism is frozen, change the complete main control handle assembly
15. Insert a small screwdriver in the notch and gently lift the key barrel retaining tab to allow removal of the barrel
If you don't want to go to the dealer, I would still recommend purchasing a trailer shop manual online (or RT manual if it also has the trailer manual).
SpyderAnn01
Active member
If all else fails call Lamont and have him drill out the lock!
jwulf74
New member
Our RT-622 (used) did not come with a key so I had to get a new barrel and key set from Can Am, mainly because I wanted the proper lock and key for it.
Removing all of the panels to get to the lock wasn't too bad. No shop manual here. I just started unscrewing and if anything looked bound up somewhere I just paid attention to any fasteners that looked like they may be causing it. Once I had all that apart, the cables were easy to undo.
The tricky part is under the silver plate that you need to remove. There is a ball bearing and a small spring that will pop out and land in the bottom of the trailer if you aren't paying attention... yep, that's how I know. I did find them and with a little help from some grease, the will hold in place while you re-assemble the plate.
The tricky part is removing the lock itself. It pushes to the outside of the trailer. In the picture you will see the small tab that you need to push down to start it moving forward.
If you have the old key, it should slide right out. If not, well, if you are extremely lucky you can use your Spyder key to get most of the pins to pull in and if you sort of move your key in and out you may be able to work it sort of like a bump key to get the lock to slide out... I ended up using 2 different Spyder keys (since we have 2) as each would get certain pins all the way in or mostly in and working with both of them I was able to get the old lock to slip out.
I probably got extremely lucky, but it did work. A locksmith could probably get all of the pins to pull in for you too with their proper tools, but I am cheap and wanted to do it myself. That and the tech at the dealership didn't really know how to get it out without the matched key.
In the pics you can see the fully locked mechanism has 3 main pins and the retaining pin on the back. The second shows the pins pulled partially pulled in by an incorrect key. The correct key would pull the pins all the way in to allow the lock to slide out.
Removing all of the panels to get to the lock wasn't too bad. No shop manual here. I just started unscrewing and if anything looked bound up somewhere I just paid attention to any fasteners that looked like they may be causing it. Once I had all that apart, the cables were easy to undo.
The tricky part is under the silver plate that you need to remove. There is a ball bearing and a small spring that will pop out and land in the bottom of the trailer if you aren't paying attention... yep, that's how I know. I did find them and with a little help from some grease, the will hold in place while you re-assemble the plate.
The tricky part is removing the lock itself. It pushes to the outside of the trailer. In the picture you will see the small tab that you need to push down to start it moving forward.
If you have the old key, it should slide right out. If not, well, if you are extremely lucky you can use your Spyder key to get most of the pins to pull in and if you sort of move your key in and out you may be able to work it sort of like a bump key to get the lock to slide out... I ended up using 2 different Spyder keys (since we have 2) as each would get certain pins all the way in or mostly in and working with both of them I was able to get the old lock to slip out.
I probably got extremely lucky, but it did work. A locksmith could probably get all of the pins to pull in for you too with their proper tools, but I am cheap and wanted to do it myself. That and the tech at the dealership didn't really know how to get it out without the matched key.
In the pics you can see the fully locked mechanism has 3 main pins and the retaining pin on the back. The second shows the pins pulled partially pulled in by an incorrect key. The correct key would pull the pins all the way in to allow the lock to slide out.
Last edited:
bullant12
New member
:agree: The 2010 service manual has it (thanks Scotty!:thumbup
I just did mine in 45 minutes. What you said about removing the tumbler was true, it is tricky, but if you are patient and understand what you need to do, it can be done. Saved me a trip to the dealer or the locksmith!
bluestratos
New member
There is a release that needs to be pushed to allow the lock to push out, it was not difficult with the lock in the stage you have it.
RUOUTHERE
New member
Where is the release??
bluestratos
New member
If I was there it would be easy, but I took the cover plate off, put the key in the lock and was able to see the release when I turned the lock. I believe I depress it and the lock cylinder pulled out. If you disconnect the cables and bring it to a dealer they would likely release it for no charge as it is a 1 second process.
happyspyder2039
Active member
i know this is old thread but I wo like to know if you have to remove the tumbler from trailer to switch key for a different bike?
finless
New member
Yes, your new bike should have come with a tumbler in the trunk with your manual etc.
You will need to take the old tumbler out and put the new one in.
It's best if you have the OLD KEY to the trailer otherwise the trailer lock as to be "picked" to get it out. Not fun but doable.
Bob
finless
New member
I R one
Apprenteced with a locksmith in my younger days. That lock is super easy to pick FYI as all the others on ther spyder. Good thing the ignition is chipped because of that.
Bob
Cruzr Joe
New member
I R one
Apprenteced with a locksmith in my younger days. That lock is super easy to pick FYI as all the others on ther spyder. Good thing the ignition is chipped because of that.
Bob
You are as handy as a swiss army knife. :thumbup: (and you probably have one, don't you?)
Cruzr Joe
finless
New member
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