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Is there a "not less than" for RPMs on the SE6?

BigGuy66

Member
I am new to the SE6, coming from a 2010 SM5. With the 998 there was caution not to 'lug' the engine with RPMs too low. On my new 2019 RT I shifted the SE6 about 3500 during this break-in period. Is it possible to have the RPMs too low for any of the gears? Trying to understand how this SE6 works.
Jim
 
I am new to the SE6, coming from a 2010 SM5. With the 998 there was caution not to 'lug' the engine with RPMs too low. On my new 2019 RT I shifted the SE6 about 3500 during this break-in period. Is it possible to have the RPMs too low for any of the gears? Trying to understand how this SE6 works.
Jim

Well the SE trans can't stall because of low RPM's ..... it will just downshift .... and the SE won't let you up-shift unless the engine has reached the level of rpm's that allow it it to do so safely ...... the 1330 engine was designed with low rpm's / high torque as it's power production ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
I am also rather new to the SE6, but it's the only Spyder we have had, so have no comparison.

Based on engine sound, it doesn't like to be under 2k. Just riding through town, staying with or slightly ahead of traffic, shifting at 3.5k seems to work. Overall, we tend to keep it over 3k, there's no need to keep it wound up like the V-twins.

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The clutch on the SE6's works on oil pressure, unlike the SE5's where the centrifugal clutch works on revs; so as long as your SE6's engine is running & you've actually got a gear selected, the clutch will be happily doing its thing! :ohyea:

That said, the gearbox itself is still a manual gearbox, just with a snazzy clutch and super-fast electronically controlled gear changes, so you aren't really being all that kind to the engine/drive-line by letting it do all the down-shifting - that 'automated down-shift' is simply the other side of the computer not letting you up-shift too early - it's a 'fail-safe' to stop things being damaged by 'poor driving practices', like forgetting to change down when you really should &/or trying to change up too early... either can result in putting too much torque thru the higher gears, and that might just cause some fairly expensive damage! :banghead:
 
The SE6 transmission automatically downshifts if the engine drops to 1,900 RPM or thereabouts. Take the Spyder out and run it up to 6th gear and let go of the throttle and watch it automatically downshift all the way down to first.
 
(snip) the gearbox itself is still a manual gearbox, just with a snazzy clutch and super-fast electronically controlled gear changes, so you aren't really being all that kind to the engine/drive-line by letting it do all the down-shifting (snip)

So - I should do the downshifting and not let the byke automatically downshift? I think that's what you are saying... I don't want to grind up any gears!!
Jim
 
Mine seems comfortable shifting up 3500-4000.

If I want engine braking to help more on a downslope I’ll downshift about 2500-2800.
 
So - I should do the downshifting and not let the byke automatically downshift? I think that's what you are saying... I don't want to grind up any gears!!
Jim

I let my machine downshift by itself 98% of the time. The only time I manually shift down is when I want extra power to pass etc.
 
The Spyder isn't going to care whether you shift or it shifts. I have not heard of a single case hereon where an SE6 transmission has crapped out because the rider did all the downshifting.
 
I usually downshift myself down to 2nd gear and let it go into 1st when it wants to. Letting it downshift itself seems to have a rougher feel to it. Besides, I guess I am a control freak. I want the gear when I want the gear. (driving sports cars too long):dontknow:
 
Downshift if you want to turn and burn - Torque bump abive 4500 RPM

Most of the time I cruise and shift with the RPMs above 3000, but when you pull out to pass a semi at 60-65 its nice to drop a gear and get the extra 10 to 15 percent torque peak.

1330 torque curve.jpg

But its worth noting you still have 80 lb feet of torque at 2000 RPM for cruising; when slowing down the autoshift is around 1700 RPM except to first at 1400 RPM.
 
If you want to see the design philosophy, simply engage ECO mode and you'll see where the shifting is supposed to occur for maximum fuel economy. For normal driving, around 3000 seems to be a happy middle point. For fun, there's a reason you can hold each gear up to redline!!!!
 
You can't lug the engine on the SE6. If you get below about 2,000 RPMs the clutch disengages after it has shifted back down to first. Without bringing the RPMs up, you have no power to the drive wheel.
 
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