Is there a Mail-In Repair Service for Spyder consoles?

[BertRemington]

My Spyder console is showing classic signs of deterioration. For example sometimes the MPH indicator shows, sometimes the RPM indicator shows and sometimes both show. Apparently the solder joints degrade over time and environmental conditions (eg, riding on rough roads, storing outside even under a cover, etc). I think my console may soon need specialized professional attention.

Is there a mail-in service for repair and refurbishment of Spyder consoles?

I haven't checked San Diego Spyder dealers if they are aware of such a service nor have I checked for automotive instrument repair services (I used one many years ago for my 1989 Mustang).

Apologies if a better search would have answered my question.

 

[UtahPete]

Good question. That would be a real money-saver.

 

[BertRemington]

Here's the pricing I'm thinking of:

Inspection with repair estimate: $100 credited to refurbishment/repair
Refurbishment (solder joints, minor circuit board cracks): $200
Repair (eg, speedometer or tachometer motors): $200+
Shipping and Handling extra: $30+
30-day warranty

The process would be pre-pay inspection and you will receive shipping box with pre-paid label. Pack your console into the box and return for service. When you receive your serviced console you keep the shipping box.

 

[EdMat]

If you opened it up to all the Can-Am product line it might be a worthwhile endeavor. I know if I had dash problems I would love a service like that vs. new replacement cost.

 

[Mikey]

We are in a throw away world, and no one wants to work for penny's so even if you could find someone the end cost would be more than the replacement part. You could get someone to sit down and repair a circuit board from parts from radio shack, try it now, good luck!!

 

[K80Shooter]

Here's the pricing I'm thinking of:

Inspection with repair estimate: $100 credited to refurbishment/repair
Refurbishment (solder joints, minor circuit board cracks): $200
Repair (eg, speedometer or tachometer motors): $200+
Shipping and Handling extra: $30+
30-day warranty

The process would be pre-pay inspection and you will receive shipping box with pre-paid label. Pack your console into the box and return for service. When you receive your serviced console you keep the shipping box.

The shipping would realistically be at least double that amount. They furnish box, pay shipping both ways plus it has to be insured just in case.

 

[BertRemington]

more than the replacement part

In these days of dealers refusing service for older (more than 10 years) Spyders an expensively repaired console is better than no console and cheaper than a new Spyder.

K80, et al -- I'm sure you guys are correct about pricing. My investigation of console replacements find mucho variants in the early years. Like my console seems to be 2014-2015 only. Same with left-hand switch module. So double my cost estimates is well worth a refurbished console. Then again maybe I should buy a new one now and put it on the shelf. Then my executor can sell it here.

 

[Jetfixer]

My Spyder console is showing classic signs of deterioration. For example sometimes the MPH indicator shows, sometimes the RPM indicator shows and sometimes both show. Apparently the solder joints degrade over time and environmental conditions (eg, riding on rough roads, storing outside even under a cover, etc). I think my console may soon need specialized professional attention.

Is there a mail-in service for repair and refurbishment of Spyder consoles?

I haven't checked San Diego Spyder dealers if they are aware of such a service nor have I checked for automotive instrument repair services (I used one many years ago for my 1989 Mustang).

Apologies if a better search would have answered my question.

Ask around in your area (especially among the computer savvy) if anyone has a "reflow oven". Basically, modern circuit boards are not soldered in the old ways. Today, the solder is more like a paste that is printed on the circuit board. The individual components are then set on the board by a "pick and place" machine. After all components are placed in their respective spots, the circuit board is run through an oven that melts all the solder at once, and then cools the board gradually. "Reflowing" is a process by which you would remove the circuit board from any housings and heat it back up to reflow the solder and thereby refresh all the joints. You can attempt this yourself in your home oven. Generally, about 200-220 degrees is all you need for about 20 minutes. Then turn off the oven and allow to cool slowly. Someone that does "reflowing" as a service would be better able to tell you the exact temp and time required. I've had success saving computer circuit boards with this method.

 

[K80Shooter]

Ask around in your area (especially among the computer savvy) if anyone has a "reflow oven". Basically, modern circuit boards are not soldered in the old ways. Today, the solder is more like a paste that is printed on the circuit board. The individual components are then set on the board by a "pick and place" machine. After all components are placed in their respective spots, the circuit board is run through an oven that melts all the solder at once, and then cools the board gradually. "Reflowing" is a process by which you would remove the circuit board from any housings and heat it back up to reflow the solder and thereby refresh all the joints. You can attempt this yourself in your home oven. Generally, about 200-220 degrees is all you need for about 20 minutes. Then turn off the oven and allow to cool slowly. Someone that does "reflowing" as a service would be better able to tell you the exact temp and time required. I've had success saving computer circuit boards with this method.

I agree, this reminds me of a HP printer that I once had. I kept having some type of problem with it (can't remember exactly what now) and when I talked to the service dept. I was told to remove the circuit board, pre-heat my oven to a certain temp then place board in the oven for 30 minutes, remove board and let cool before reinstalling it. Wouldn't you know that from then on, I never had another problem with it.
It had to be a loose solder joint.

 

[BertRemington]

Jetfixer, K80 -- thanks for those suggestions. I'm definitely going to look for such a service since temperature control appears to be critical and I doubt my skills or kitchen oven are up to it. Console seems easy to remove just tedious as usual. And I'll do some searches on how people disassembled it.

Thanks again.

 

[Wahrsuul]

I've baked a PCB from a TV before - fixed a couple issues and lasted a while. If I recall, it was 210 degrees for 20 minutes.