Is there a Drown mode on Rykers? Can someone verify.

[NHTundra]

Can someone verify that if you hold the throttle wide open and rank the starter that it turns over but does not fire? Mine has been put away for over a month and I had taken the battery out.

Drown mode is a somewhat hidden function performed by the 900 ACE engine in the watercraft, side x sides, snowmobiles, and some of the other BRP 4 stroke engines.

Long story short, I'm buying a valve that replaces to oil plug on this engine (in my Maverick X3) and would like to know if I should get a 2nd one now. It makes oil changes a breeze but makes use of the above mentioned function to remove all oil via the primary plug, and the small plug just stays intact. I just changed the Ryker oil before putting it away and I know its a mild PITA and make a bit of a mess. With this, no mess.

https://curtisvalves.com/products/utv-valves/

 

[DGoebel]

Yes, Even on RT's and F3's as well

 

[NHTundra]

Great. Thank you!

 

[Jdr00ejr]

It makes oil changes a breeze but makes use of the above mentioned function to remove all oil via the primary plug, and the small plug just stays intact.

. Curious to know more details about what it is you are doing. Is this turning over the motor without actually firing thus pumping out the oil? is that not hard on it since you are spinning things internally while removing all the oil?

 

[Bfromla]

Familiar with T.W.O throttle wide open on bikes with starter buttons , how on Ryker :hun:thought had roll throttle forward to start??:dontknow: only did 1 test ride

 

[Jdr00ejr]

Familiar with T.W.O throttle wide open on bikes with starter buttons , how on Ryker :hun:thought had roll throttle forward to start??:dontknow: only did 1 test ride

The need to roll the throttle forward is momentary - it's the same as pressing the mode button the Spyder. It's the way you acknowledge having read the safety card.

 

[NHTundra]

. Curious to know more details about what it is you are doing. Is this turning over the motor without actually firing thus pumping out the oil? is that not hard on it since you are spinning things internally while removing all the oil?

It's a mode built-in by BRP. There's a video in the link above but essentially you pump out the remaining oil all through the one plug. Then you can also use the same procedure to prime the engine with the new oil.
Here's the process.
Warm the engine to normal operating temp and shut it off. Drain the oil via the large plug (or the valve I would install). When oil has stopped flowing, crank it for 5 seconds WOT. More oil will come out. When it stops, perform the 5 seconds of cranking and the remainder of oil will come out. Reinstall the large plug or close the valve, change the filter (which should be empty at this point), then put in the recommended amount of oil. Then perform WOT cranking one more time and the engine will be fully primed.
No damage is done since you're only rotating the engine at cranking speed which is but a small fraction of even idling rpm. There will always be a film of oil in the bearings.

 

[Peter Aawen]

It's a mode built-in by BRP.....

...... change the filter (which should be empty at this point), ......

If you do go down this route, just be wary when you go to change the filter/s - I've yet to find an engine oil filter that will truly empty itself by cranking the engine! :shocked:

Bearing in mind that oil filters on engines generally work by having oil pump in one end/side, forcing the oil thru the filtering media & then letting it come out the other end/side all filtered; that generally means that once you drain the bulk of the oil, there's no longer any oil left to be pumped IN, so there's nothing left being forced in & thru the filter to empty all the oil that's still actually contained in the filter - especially if there's an anti-drain valve that's designed to keep oil in the filter &/or top end of the lubrication system somewhere.... . Not that I know if either of the Ryker engine's or their filters have any particular anti-drain feature in their oil/lubrication systems, but the concept still applies - once you drain the bulk of the oil, that effectively stops the oil pump pushing oil IN to the filter, and that means that besides any slow dribble caused by gravity, there's not gonna be too much oil coming OUT of the filter all that quickly! So watch out for any oil still trapped in the filter, there could be more than you expect! :lecturef_smilie:

Just Sayin' :thumbup:

 

[NHTundra]

I just changed my oil at the end of the season by the conventional method and there was still quite a bit of oil in the filter housing when I pulled the old one out. Next oil change I will likely install one of these valves and follow the mentioned procedure to see if there is a difference regarding the filter. I know subsequent oil changes will be much more convenient to perform and no mess.