Is there a 2020 F3 Fog Light Switch alternative?

[CloverHillCrawler]

I have another failure of the OEM fog light switch part# 710007132. This is the second bad OEM switch in the last 5 years.

Does anyone know of an aftermarket replacement for this switch that is compatible with the harness? At $63 a switch, I want something that is more durable.

I only hand wash with a garden hose, no high pressure power washers.

 

[MNF3]

I went to our local auto parts store and bought a $15.00 switch and used that - for 3 years now and no issues on my 2016 F3-T

 

[djh3]

I found some push button switches on Amazon that were like under $20.

 

[honsfun]

Check that it is not the load shedding relay that is bad. I replaced the switch with a new one, still no fog lights. Needed a new relay. The new switch was purchased at Mauser Electronics.

 

[honsfun]

Do a google search for - eao-82-5151-2123 - chose any!

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Still had issues after replacing the relay and it eventually failed after I washed my F3 a couple of weeks ago.

I was able to find a switch on slingmods for 12.95 https://www.slingmods.com/canam-spyder-f3-led-waterproof-center-console-switch?vehicle=1


But the wiring is different and I was wondering if i will have some issues with this switch. The wiring between the switch the diagram and what is actually there is different.

These are pics I took, I removed the pigtail from the OEM switch so I could use the connector to hook up the new switch. You can see the pigtail colors are different from the harness.

The F3 service manual show this for that wiring. I assume what is supposed to be a black ground wire in the number 3 position is the white wire coming off the pigtail.


Now we have the install diagram from slingmods with their color configuration. Which indicates

Red- LED + -Connect to a switched 12V ignition source so the switch lights up when the
ignition is on. (Optional)

Black - LED - -Connect to chassis ground for the LED circuit. (Optional)

Green- Input- 12V power source input. Must be fused near the power source to
protect the circuit (maximum 5A)

Blue - Output — Option 1 - Connect to the 12V accessory positive. The accessory powers ON when the switch is pressed and OFF when released.

Yellow - Output — Option 2 - Connect to the 12V accessory positive. The accessory powers ON when the switch is not pressed and turns OFF when the switch is pressed.



Now here is my main question, since the switch is operating a relay, the Blue and Yellow wires should not be used as there is no output from the OEM switch? 12 v comes in and then goes to ground.

Also since there is only 1 ground wire coming off the led and none for the switch should I have the grounds from position 1 and 3 connected to the black lead coming off of the switch together like I have in the picture in order to provide a ground or just leave pin 3 unconnected since there is no black (ground) coming off of the switch?

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

NM , came to my senses and decided to separate the ground (BK) wires and run the blue to BK at PIN 3 to provide continuity through the switch when pressed like the original switch.

When you get old you tend to overthink these things sometimes.

Update: I am glad I caught myself as this was the right thing to do. Tested my pigtail in this configuration and everything worked well.

Pin1- Black on pigtail to Black on Switch
Pin2- Orange on pigtail to Red on Switch
Pin3- White on pigtail to Blue on Switch
Pin4- Grey on Pigtail to Green on Switch


Now that it is tested I can go back and solder the connections and give them a dip in some liquid tape.

And hopefully it will last longer than the BRP switch and it will be easier to swap out next time as it has its own socket for the switch. It will definitely be cheaper at $12.95 rather the 60 something dollars.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Got everything back in, lights are working great. And I am really liking the looks of halo switch compared to the OEM Switch.