Is removing 1330 Water pump simple? How to drain/bleed coolant?

[PMK]

WRT thermostat, I didn't know it was removeable. As PMK noted it doesn't show in the parts catalog. I did note in PMK's photo there were stamped numbers on the thermostat rim. In my experience, BRP engine-related parts (eg CPS) have Bosch part numbers which respond to an internet search. Maybe if PMK can post another photo showing those numbers more clearly???

WRT task score, let's remember PMK is much higher on the mechanic skills scorecard than most of us.

Regarding the thermostat, essentially, it should be considered not removable. Yes, I did remove it, without damage to the housing parts and such, but it was not intended to be removed.

My intended plan was expecting a failed thermostat, based on the indications. With that, I ordered an inline thermostat housing. Hope was to remove a failing thermostat completely and allow the new inline thermostat to regulate temps.

Unfortunately, my ship sank when I saw the thermostat was the bypass type.

At that point I began searching for a replacement thermostat. The thermostat manufacturer is BTT / Mahle. The temp rating is 80*c. The part number appears to be 1.421, which mimics BTT part numbers. Bummer though that the PN found no matches. I did email BTT in regards to the PN but never got a reply.

While I appreciate the kind words regarding my mechanical skills, I still consider the task pretty straight forward. Yes, body panels of plastic must be removed, that takes time. Truism that the oem hose clamps can have fun with folks trying to remove them, oh well. The rest though is just basic water pump change tasks.

Thermostat photos, if you care to hunt a bit.

 

[BertRemington]

BTT was absorbed into Mahle. Mahle has an excellent website to search for replacement parts. That 54mm diameter BTT thermostat would be in the Mahle TX 1x 80D series of thermostats. Except it isn't. None of them have the vent hole. So our thermostat is a BRP/Rotax specific part integrated into the water pump assembly.

 

[PMK]

Simple follow up. Brand new oem water pump / thermostat assembly arrived today.

Installed the waterpump onto the engine. Hoses connected. Serviced the coolant with the same batch I recently mixed for the drain, flush, refill a short while ago.

Fired up, ran a bit, idling. No leaks or concerns. Coolant level was at the cold mark after idling for about 15 minutes. Temp never hit the second large bar on the temp gage. Fans never even kicked on. Let everything cool, serviced coolant a bit more, idle and ran again, no heat issues, and again, never got so warm as to kick the fans on.

So back to normal.

 

[larryd]

Way Back in my automotive career days, whenever I replaced auto thermostats, I ALWAYS drilled a 1/8" hole in the replacement thermostat...

That 1/8" hole prevented the engine block from getting air-bound when refilling the cooling system. I never experienced any negative effects. Without that hole, many times getting air-bound coolant sorted was a challenge...
larryd

 

[PMK]

Way Back in my automotive career days, whenever I replaced auto thermostats, I ALWAYS drilled a 1/8" hole in the replacement thermostat...

That 1/8" hole prevented the engine block from getting air-bound when refilling the cooling system. I never experienced any negative effects. Without that hole, many times getting air-bound coolant sorted was a challenge...
larryd

Few things, removing the thermostat from the 1330 water pump assembly is a risky pain. The thermostat retainer spigot is also plastic and snaps in place.

Inside the water pump, the thermostat is not exactly sealed. The oem thermostat does have a bleed hole, however it is loosely fitted onto an indexing alignment pin of the plastic housing.

While the bleed hole is there, it is not a tight fit on the alignment pin, so this does help purge entrapped air in the system.

Truly though, when Rotax and BRP stuffed the 1330 into the chassis, Rotax made very specific hose connections not only to the radiators, but also the coolant recovery tank. By design, the engine has a steam port. Basically a very small diameter bleed that purges entrapped air or steam back directly to the coolant tank. The coolant tank also has a medium sized hose, that directly fills into the water pump.

The system filled easily and quickly.

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

If your thinking of Draining the radiator , pull the hose off ..... many folks have discovered the OEM drain often breaks off. ..... No warranty ?????? ...... Mike :thumbup:

That's what I did when draining my coolant to change it. I removed the basket to get to the hose t-fitting and separated the hoses..it drains easily and I did not have to bleed the system. Just fill it up, start the engine to operating temperature, let it cool and top it off.

Simple follow up. Brand new oem water pump / thermostat assembly arrived today.

Installed the waterpump onto the engine. Hoses connected. Serviced the coolant with the same batch I recently mixed for the drain, flush, refill a short while ago.

Fired up, ran a bit, idling. No leaks or concerns. Coolant level was at the cold mark after idling for about 15 minutes. Temp never hit the second large bar on the temp gage. Fans never even kicked on. Let everything cool, serviced coolant a bit more, idle and ran again, no heat issues, and again, never got so warm as to kick the fans on.

So back to normal.

Unlike the first 998 Spyders which seemed to run hot nearly all the time, the 1330 rarely ever turns on the fans, it tends to run cool as a cucumber except on really hot days. Then the fan may switch on if you're stuck in traffic.