Is my Spare Key a Dodgy key?

[Stephenaspr]

Today, I tried the spare key to suit my 2011 RSS and it lights up the dash OK and goes through the normal start up routine, but nothing when the starter button is pressed, with brakes applied.
The key normally used starts the bike OK, and a new battery was recently installed.
Any thoughts on the problem, is it possible that the chip in the key does not like the higher draw on start up.
The spare key has not been used for the past 5 -6 years.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Not trying to be funny here, but is there any chance that you simply had the Kill Switch set to STOP instead of RUN when you tried to start using the Spare Key?? :dontknow: You wouldn't be the first (or the last! ) to get caught out by that.... do you really need to ask how I know it occurs?? pps:

If that's not the issue, then as you already feel is the situation, I reckon it's most likely going to be in the key/chip itself - up until late 2013, I believe the DESS (Security System) used a chip that was effectively self powered, recharged thru use, & when polled by the onboard system, would actually send the correct code to the onboard reader - when I bought my 2013 RT-L my dealer recommended regularly swapping which key I used in order to avoid any issues like the one you are experiencing......

After 2013, there were changes to the Spyder's DESS that for many, effectively stuffed a system that had been working perfectly well until then - by changing the key/chip to a passive non-broadcasting version which was powered by & read by the onboard components, and in doing this, created issues for many by regularly failing to work - there's a rather large thread on DESS issues with the 2014 & on Spyders! :banghead:

Sorry I can't help more... :dontknow:

Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[Stephenaspr]

Kill switch definitely on RUN, checked that first as I was caught out on that once before when it was accidentally knocked into the STOP position.
Will try to leave the key in and switched on to see if the chip charges up to perform all of its functions.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Kill switch definitely on RUN, checked that first as I was caught out on that once before when it was accidentally knocked into the STOP position.
Will try to leave the key in and switched on to see if the chip charges up to perform all of its functions.

If it's been unused for 5 or 6 years, I don't know that'll help very much.... :dontknow: But hey, who am I to say; & it surely can't hurt much either! hyea:

Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[pegasus1300]

......
If that's not the issue, then as you already feel is the situation, I reckon it's most likely going to be in the key/chip itself - up until late 2013, I believe the DESS (Security System) used a chip that was effectively self powered, recharged thru use, & when polled by the onboard system, would actually send the correct code to the onboard reader - when I bought my 2013 RT-L my dealer recommended regularly swapping which key I used in order to avoid any issues like the one you are experiencing......
......

I had not heard that before Peter, thanks for the information. I am going to try my spare key in the morning. As far as I know it has never been used.

 

[Isopedella]

Newbie and learning fast question dumb question.

So reading this thread I assume its a good idea to alternate my keys a bit with my 2017.

Any best guess how often to swap out the keys for uninterrupted service at all? :dontknow:

 

[Peter Aawen]

Newbie and learning fast question dumb question.

So reading this thread I assume its a good idea to alternate my keys a bit with my 2017.

Any best guess how often to swap out the keys for uninterrupted service at all? :dontknow:

That doesn't matter at all on your 2017, the DESS changed in 2014 & became what is effectively a passive key that's powered & then 'read' by the onboard system via an antenna that's around the ign keyhole. So you don't need to swap keys regularly, but it might pay you to read the D.E.S.S. KEY CODE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thread about the 2014 & newer DESS problems. See the link below: :thumbup:

It's only the 2013 & earlier keys that had chips which effectively 'broadcast' their signal & needed a small amount of power to do so.


https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-E-S-S-KEY-CODE-AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Isopedella]

Awesome. Thanks.

 

[Stephenaspr]

Bad key

Latest is after leaving the key in the switch and powered up, it came up with a BAD KEY message on the dash.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Latest is after leaving the key in the switch and powered up, it came up with a BAD KEY message on the dash.

It sounds like your spare key has either lost it's electronic signature or the Spyder was never programmed correctly to accept that spare key...... :dontknow:

That said, programming the Spyder is not anything you'd call 'simple', and you need to have a special 'master key' (they look the same as all the other keys, but have a Red top on them) and finding one of them plus anyone who knows how to carry out the programming might be a bit difficult now?!? :gaah:


I wonder if it would be worth your while trying to find a locksmith who could clone your working key?? There may be something they could ddo for you?! Even if they just cloned a fob for you that you could hang off the spare key or ignition that might help - the chip only needs to be 'near' the ignition, & if you could get a match for the working key to hang nearby??

Over to you. Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[Bfromla]

:thumbup:13& prior can clone the working key.(quick & ez) The other that read Bad key ,should have a readable code that is just not programmed in spyder, or something interfering with signal. Dealer with Master key to add it to program. Program can save 4 keys I think:dontknow:, but tech will need both keys & some clear headed patience. To get both working also good idea getting a chip less spare (Ilco X270 most hardware stores) & having some where personally would try verify if the bad key has a code or not-just cuz. opcorn:

 

[Stephenaspr]

Nearest dealer is 1,000 miles away, and I have not had good service from them in the past.
I already have another spare clonable key that works, as well as my normally used key.
I just find it annoying that you carry the spare key on the bike for the past 6 - 8 years only to find it does not work (it did when it was placed on the bike).
I have just purchased an RT-S, so my old RSS will be up for sale shortly.
I may take the normally used key, and the BAD KEY to a local locksmith to see if they can reprogram it so that I can present the new owner with all working keys..

 

[Freddy]

I just tried my spare key for the first time in more than a decade and it works as it should.