Nudels2u75
New member
I have the Limited spyder, and I am curious to which oil to use.....I was wanting to use the Mobile One Motor Oil
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Is anybody running Mobile one motor oil
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Ga Blue Knight
New member
Only in my truck. Mobile one has changed their formulation and it is not good for the Spyder's wet clutch and tranny.
Machinegunner
New member
I switched to Mobil 1 10-40 synthetic in my 2011 RS-S SE-5. It is JASO MA for wet clutches. My bike seems to shift much smoother now. Have had no clutch splipping at all. According to the Mobil 1 rep. in Sturgis, all synthetic motorcycle brands except Amzoil use Mobil 1 as their base. So you should have no problems either.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
MOBIL-1
Unless they changed it again recently, the last time I checked Mobil-1 was an " SM " rated syn.....not good for us........Mike
Unless they changed it again recently, the last time I checked Mobil-1 was an " SM " rated syn.....not good for us........Mike
donnellpj
New member
I'm using Mobile-1 4T Racing Full-Synthetic 10w40, with the BRP filter.
I have about 2500 miles on the bike since I put it in, and its running great.
Mobil-1 4T Racing is JASO MA, wet clutch primary rated, and after speaking to a tech on the Mobil-1 tech line it meets or exceeded all the BRP requirements, straight out of MOM.
For what its worth.
I have about 2500 miles on the bike since I put it in, and its running great.
Mobil-1 4T Racing is JASO MA, wet clutch primary rated, and after speaking to a tech on the Mobil-1 tech line it meets or exceeded all the BRP requirements, straight out of MOM.
For what its worth.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
It does not "meet or exceed all the BRP requirements" since it was labelled API-SM. BRP specifically prhibits the use of these oils in the Spyder. Read your manual. Use Mobil1 at your own risk.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I don't think it is possible to ever clear up all the 'STUFF' out there about oil. Just too many people putting out too much bad or incorrect information. It's like trying to hold back the tide!
Scotty is right about the SM rating that translates to a high probability for clutch shippage in our Spyders, (which is why BRP says not to use it).
I would also be concerend about using an oil with an MA rating. There are 2 wet clutch ratings. MA1 and MA2. Since the MA2 rating is the better of the two for wet clutch applications, you can always assume that an MA rating is really an MA1 rating since if it were the better MA2 they would certainly put that on their container.
Clutch slippage can be slight at first. But even some slippage will probably cause damage. It will not only overheat and burn the oil, but be more prone to slip as time goes on. If you have an RT, ride 2 up or pull a trailer this tendency for the clutch to slip is increased.
Even if you have an RS like me, hard riding will increase the chance of clutch slippage.
I am not saying that an MA1 rated oil will give you clutch slippage problems. Just that it is more likely than with an MA2 oil. It isn't hard to find good lubricants that meet or exceed all of the BRP specs and also have the better MA2 rating for wet clutches. It's just easier to find ones that don't.
There is a spread in the MA ratings so all MA1 or MA2 rated oils are not necessarily going to perform the same. Your clutch could slip with 1 MA1 rated oil and not with another MA1 rated oil.
I can't find the chart I've referenced before so I made my own. This is just a representation of what I am saying about the range of clutch friction (or lack thereof) that these oils fall into. You could actually have an MA1 rated oil that falls just short of the MA2 rating, and an MA2 rated oil that is just marginally better but qualifies as an MA2 oil. In the real world, however, a manufacturer will either make sure they are over the line to qualify for an MA2 rating or not bother to get all that close to the cut off point.
I show 'More Slippage' and 'Less Slippage' but it would probabaly be more accurate to say, 'more or less CHANCE for slippage'
Nudels2u75
New member
Is this the Grey containers
I am thinking the new mobile one came out in Black and the old ones were grey...just bought a couple of cases of grey.....with a really big discount...just the way I like it...
Thanks so much for the info...
I am thinking the new mobile one came out in Black and the old ones were grey...just bought a couple of cases of grey.....with a really big discount...just the way I like it...
Thanks so much for the info...
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Don't go by the color of the bottle, go by what the label says. that's the only way to know for sure.
Bad Dog6
New member
Automobile oils and motorcycle oils are not the same
Article by Dan Peterson Vice President of Technical Development at AMSOIL
One of the sure signs of summer is the abundance of motorcycles operating on the roads of North America. And it seems like that there are more motorcycles than ever on the highways and byways, thats because, there are in 2012, nearly 9.5 million motorcycles where registered in the U.S. alone. That figure has grown by more than 47% since 2002, when the total was slightly more than 5 million. Motorcycle culture and the thrill of the pen road bring thousands of new riders and enthusiasts into the hobby every year. Although many “gear heads” love working on their bikes, few want to be doing repairs or experiencing down time from riding that could be prevented by basic maintenance. As with any vehicle powered by an internal combustion engine, proper lubrication is essential to ensure performance and longevity.
In the past, it was common for motorcycles to run on engine oils designed for four-stroke automobile engines. And if you spend anytime on online motorcycle forums, you’ll see plenty of folks still advocating the use of automotive oil for motorcycles. What is their rationale? there looking to save a couple of bucks on a quart of oil, as the majority oils blended specifically for motorcycle applications are more expensive per quart than their automotive counterparts. But is using auto oil in your motorcycle a good practice?
There are several reasons why motorcycle oils are better for your bike than automotive oils.
Motorcycles have fundamentally different lubrication requirements than automobiles. This is due primarily to differences in both engine design and vehicle applications. Motorcycles often operate under more severe conditions than passenger cars. They usually run faster, are air-cooled and share an oil sump between the engine, clutches and gears. The oil, therefore, must lubricate not only the engine, but the transmission and, in the case of wet clutch motorcycles, the clutches too. Many automotive oils, because of fuel economy requirements, are now formulated with friction modifiers. In a motorcycle with a wet clutch, these additives cause clutch slip and power loss.
Operating habits are different too. While many of us rely on a car or truck for year-round day-to-day transportation and for longer road trips, motorcycles are often ridden seasonally, on weekends or on shorter trips. These trips often occur during warm summer weather, when the cooling system has to work even harder. Thus,a motorcycle lubricant must protect against hi temperature and high engine rpm while providing smooth wet-clutch operation and protecting gears and chains from operational pressure extremes. Because of these factors, many motorcycle oils are engineered with high viscosity to help prevent gear pitting, oil burn-off and oil consumption.
Retaining that viscosity is critical to ensure components remain protected. The hi rpm and shared oil sumps common to motorcycles create an environment, in fact, transmission sets are the leading cause of shear-induced viscosity loss in motorcycle applications. The oil’s shear-stability and viscosity retention are vital for protecting motorcycles.
Additionally, motorcycles are often stored for several months during winter, a time when condensation can cause rust, which accelerates wear and can damage engine components. Rust is also a problem inherent to the shorter drive times motorcycles often endure. If not combated, rust can cause bearing corrosion which results in vibration, noise, increased temperatures and catastrophic failure. Effective motorcycle oils must include rust inhibitors to keep engines and components free from corrosion.
Motorcycle oils must also prevent foam from forming, which happens when air enters the lubricating oil during normal engine and transmission operation. Foam bubbles entering a lubricated area take the place of the lubricant film and compress easily, leading to metal-to-metal contact. Foam also promotes increased oxidation because more or the oil’s surface area is exposed to oxygen. An oil’s tendency to foam should be considered when selecting an oil for your motorcycle.
For many riders, motorcycles represent significant investments of thousands of dollars. It only makes sense to protect those investments with products tailored to address their specific lubrication requirements.
Article by Dan Peterson Vice President of Technical Development at AMSOIL
One of the sure signs of summer is the abundance of motorcycles operating on the roads of North America. And it seems like that there are more motorcycles than ever on the highways and byways, thats because, there are in 2012, nearly 9.5 million motorcycles where registered in the U.S. alone. That figure has grown by more than 47% since 2002, when the total was slightly more than 5 million. Motorcycle culture and the thrill of the pen road bring thousands of new riders and enthusiasts into the hobby every year. Although many “gear heads” love working on their bikes, few want to be doing repairs or experiencing down time from riding that could be prevented by basic maintenance. As with any vehicle powered by an internal combustion engine, proper lubrication is essential to ensure performance and longevity.
In the past, it was common for motorcycles to run on engine oils designed for four-stroke automobile engines. And if you spend anytime on online motorcycle forums, you’ll see plenty of folks still advocating the use of automotive oil for motorcycles. What is their rationale? there looking to save a couple of bucks on a quart of oil, as the majority oils blended specifically for motorcycle applications are more expensive per quart than their automotive counterparts. But is using auto oil in your motorcycle a good practice?
There are several reasons why motorcycle oils are better for your bike than automotive oils.
Motorcycles have fundamentally different lubrication requirements than automobiles. This is due primarily to differences in both engine design and vehicle applications. Motorcycles often operate under more severe conditions than passenger cars. They usually run faster, are air-cooled and share an oil sump between the engine, clutches and gears. The oil, therefore, must lubricate not only the engine, but the transmission and, in the case of wet clutch motorcycles, the clutches too. Many automotive oils, because of fuel economy requirements, are now formulated with friction modifiers. In a motorcycle with a wet clutch, these additives cause clutch slip and power loss.
Operating habits are different too. While many of us rely on a car or truck for year-round day-to-day transportation and for longer road trips, motorcycles are often ridden seasonally, on weekends or on shorter trips. These trips often occur during warm summer weather, when the cooling system has to work even harder. Thus,a motorcycle lubricant must protect against hi temperature and high engine rpm while providing smooth wet-clutch operation and protecting gears and chains from operational pressure extremes. Because of these factors, many motorcycle oils are engineered with high viscosity to help prevent gear pitting, oil burn-off and oil consumption.
Retaining that viscosity is critical to ensure components remain protected. The hi rpm and shared oil sumps common to motorcycles create an environment, in fact, transmission sets are the leading cause of shear-induced viscosity loss in motorcycle applications. The oil’s shear-stability and viscosity retention are vital for protecting motorcycles.
Additionally, motorcycles are often stored for several months during winter, a time when condensation can cause rust, which accelerates wear and can damage engine components. Rust is also a problem inherent to the shorter drive times motorcycles often endure. If not combated, rust can cause bearing corrosion which results in vibration, noise, increased temperatures and catastrophic failure. Effective motorcycle oils must include rust inhibitors to keep engines and components free from corrosion.
Motorcycle oils must also prevent foam from forming, which happens when air enters the lubricating oil during normal engine and transmission operation. Foam bubbles entering a lubricated area take the place of the lubricant film and compress easily, leading to metal-to-metal contact. Foam also promotes increased oxidation because more or the oil’s surface area is exposed to oxygen. An oil’s tendency to foam should be considered when selecting an oil for your motorcycle.
For many riders, motorcycles represent significant investments of thousands of dollars. It only makes sense to protect those investments with products tailored to address their specific lubrication requirements.
Schnauzer
New member
Mobil one "V-Twin" fully synthetic 20-50.. 22,000 miles on this brand. I'm guessing you guys are experiencing the slippage on the SE5 "Auto/Bike". That is why I hounded Spydette that Automatic transmissions belong in a car. Thank God she listened and went with the SM5. FYI, they did do away with the Mobile one Black bottle,, semi-synthetic.. Created the grey fully synthetic for V-twins.. I don't know about everyone else, but I don't see scrubby-bubbles in my oiltank when checking the oil as was the case for the 1st 3500 miles using the BRP XPS or whatever they called it..bottomline ...no airbubbles
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