Coolvirgo54
New member
Is getting cruise control on a 2015 f3 as simple as changing the rh switch block? If so does anyone know if a 2012 RTS SE5 switch block will work.
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Is adding cruise control to a 2015 F3 as simple as changing the switch block?
- Thread starter Coolvirgo54
- Start date
With respect i believe it is as simple to just change right hand control. These throttle by wire systems have everything in place, you just need the switch.
I remember someone on this forum that removed the blank cover on a non-cruise right hand control and modifying it to actuate the cruise control
The previous owner of a 2020 base model that i had told me he had the dealer add cruise by simply installing a new right hand control that came with the cruise switch.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Yep. That’s pretty much all you have to do. A number of threads on the forum confirm and support that. Use part number 710004583. Don’t know if that’s the part number of a 2012 switch. Can’t look right now. Look things up for yourself to be sure. Post #7 below confirms it works on a 2015. Good luck.
Adding Cruise to 2019 F3 base model
Picking up a new F3 base model. I was told that cruise can be added by ordering the handlebar control for the F3S. Has anyone done this?
spyderlovers.com
When I looked at my first F3 in 2015, I weighed the base model vs the S. They were the only models at the release in 2015. By the time I would add the cruise module contained in the RH Throttle Housing, the cost was approaching parity. At that time, the S came with 10 HP more, so I went with the S. In any case, at that time the RH Throttle could be changed to get cruise but it was expensive as no used parts were available. Seems to me it would have been about $500 for new parts.
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scollier33
New member
Yes, it is that simple, I did it to mine. I have the part number and the Can Am instructions as well. If you send me a DM, I'll send 'em over.
jcthorne
Well-known member
Yes its that simple and the parts were under $300 in 2015.
Also in 2015 the base and S models both had the same HP and the large rear sprocket. There were other differences between a base and S model, but HP was not it. The base model lost 10 hp in 2017 when it also lost the large rear sprocket as did the newly released F3L with top case.
Also in 2015 the base and S models both had the same HP and the large rear sprocket. There were other differences between a base and S model, but HP was not it. The base model lost 10 hp in 2017 when it also lost the large rear sprocket as did the newly released F3L with top case.
CloverHillCrawler
Active member
Here is something weird I noticed, as I was looking up the part number for a 2020 on a local dealers website, RH Switch Housing for 2020 Can-Am 003 - F3 S SE6 710004583 is $279.99 but 710004582 a RH Switch Housing for 2020 Can-Am 001 - F3 STD SE6 is $519.99, so if you have a Base F3 with a bad RH switch housing it is $240 cheaper to replace it with the F3S switch housing and you get cruise control.
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CloverHillCrawler
Active member
I ordered the part last weekend before prices went up and it arrived today, I will install it on Saturday. Looked at the service manual and it appears to be a simple install once the panels are removed.
spyderladyf3
Member
good luck, hope its a quick and easy process
CloverHillCrawler
Active member
It looks like it is. From a diagram in the service manual the port is just right below the handlebars and the cable coming off of the housing is barely longer than the handlebar so it should just be a few screws to loosen the collar from the handlebar and a few more on the inside of the collar that releases it from the throttle, after that freeing the cable and disconnect the connector. Hopefully it should not be more than an hour.good luck, hope its a quick and easy process
CloverHillCrawler
Active member
Remember to never say that it will be quick and easy! I am about an hour into it, and I am having to take off the windshield, the RH mirror and lateral console, and the upper fairing so I can route the cable. I just finished learning how to manipulate the the RH lateral console in order to get it off without breaking it. I am hoping I can just lift up the upper fairing afterwards, without having to disconnect the gauge cluster. Note that once again, the service manual isn't worth anything when it comes to a clearly stated procedure for anything.
Update: Not happening! I am going to have to pull off the panels on both sides, plus the one on the top of the tank to release the upper fairing...
Geeze!
Update: Not happening! I am going to have to pull off the panels on both sides, plus the one on the top of the tank to release the upper fairing...
Geeze!
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Cobranut
Active member
@CloverHillCrawler, the first time I had to pull all that stuff off was to add a USB power outlet. I wired it directly to the battery, so that I could charge it without the engine running.
It's certainly not intuitive how the cluster and all the topside bodywork comes off, but once you've done it, it's a lot easier next time.
I found it's best to just go ahead and remove the cluster. The face comes off with the 4 screws in the bezel and one connector on the back.
The housing is attached with the small screws on each side, from the inside.
It's certainly not intuitive how the cluster and all the topside bodywork comes off, but once you've done it, it's a lot easier next time.
I found it's best to just go ahead and remove the cluster. The face comes off with the 4 screws in the bezel and one connector on the back.
The housing is attached with the small screws on each side, from the inside.
CloverHillCrawler
Active member
@Cobranut, I did the same thing when I bought my F3 to add a USB-C fast charger, but I didn't have to remove anything as I fished the USB cord down next to the handlebars. I was so proud of myself when I pulled the panels today, and I found that cord tucked behind the throttle and housing cables in the wire retaining loop.
I was able to get the switch housing completed after several hours, but it should go quicker next time as I should of bought a fuel filter to replace when I had everything off, so I will have to go through this again, but for today the deed is done. I have it switched and all of the functions are working, but I wasn't able test the cruise control. By the time I finished, I had been up over 30 hours as I worked last night, and no way was I going out on the road with how tired I was. I just woke up a few minutes ago and will get some more sleep before I go out and test in the morning.
I do have one problem I have to resolve, and that is the throttle seems to be sticking and will not roll back all the way on it's own. At first, it would roll back only a quarter turn and stick and I would have to nudge it to keep it rolling back. I pulled the switch housing back off and cleaned the throttle with a very small amount of some 3 in 1 Dry Lock lubricant, and now it will roll back almost all of the way, but it doesn't quite make it. Still, it gets almost all of the way, but the last bit takes a nudge to release all the way to get that last 1/16 of a turn to go back. I'll go to the store tomorrow and get some contact cleaner to clean the throttle handle assembly properly and lubricate it.
I was able to get the switch housing completed after several hours, but it should go quicker next time as I should of bought a fuel filter to replace when I had everything off, so I will have to go through this again, but for today the deed is done. I have it switched and all of the functions are working, but I wasn't able test the cruise control. By the time I finished, I had been up over 30 hours as I worked last night, and no way was I going out on the road with how tired I was. I just woke up a few minutes ago and will get some more sleep before I go out and test in the morning.
I do have one problem I have to resolve, and that is the throttle seems to be sticking and will not roll back all the way on it's own. At first, it would roll back only a quarter turn and stick and I would have to nudge it to keep it rolling back. I pulled the switch housing back off and cleaned the throttle with a very small amount of some 3 in 1 Dry Lock lubricant, and now it will roll back almost all of the way, but it doesn't quite make it. Still, it gets almost all of the way, but the last bit takes a nudge to release all the way to get that last 1/16 of a turn to go back. I'll go to the store tomorrow and get some contact cleaner to clean the throttle handle assembly properly and lubricate it.
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CloverHillCrawler
Active member
Tried cleaning and lubricating the throttle to resolve the issue with it not returning to idle but it just does not want to go that last lil bit but it is not a show stopper, I will work on it further to resolve the issue.
I did a test ride out to Little Orleans, Md. today and the cruise control works great. This will definitely help me with longer trips on the highway and save me from cramping up after holding the throttle open for while.
Update: I was able to resolve my return to idle issue. Spring had popped out of the hole in the endcap. returned spring to a "normal" position and everything is good.
I did a test ride out to Little Orleans, Md. today and the cruise control works great. This will definitely help me with longer trips on the highway and save me from cramping up after holding the throttle open for while.
Update: I was able to resolve my return to idle issue. Spring had popped out of the hole in the endcap. returned spring to a "normal" position and everything is good.
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