Is a 2015 F3-S Rear wheel the same as 2015 RT?

[1989hawk]

Does anyone know if the rear wheel from a 2015 f3s is the same as a 2015 rt ?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Does anyone know if the rear wheel from a 2015 f3s is the same as a 2015 rt ?

The physical size will be the same ( ALL rear wheels for ALL Spyders have been 15 inch with the same width and back-space ) however the spoke design is not likely to match .... Happy New Yera .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[1989hawk]

Thank you. I have a bent one a 2015RT. Found a good buy on one from a 2015 f3s. Spoke pattern doesnt really matter to me.

 

[fatboy]

im sure you will have to use your pulley

 

[1989hawk]

Very true. Thanks.

 

[blacklightning]

The physical size will be the same ( ALL rear wheels for ALL Spyders have been 15 inch with the same width and back-space ) however the spoke design is not likely to match .... Happy New Yera .... Mike :thumbup:

:agree: The spoke change that you speak of took place in 2015. The 2015 and 2014 RT rims at the rear have a different pattern. But in 2015 the wheel spoke pattern should all be the same. But as mentioned, the pulley itself will be different.

 

[Piratezz]

Pulley cannot be changed, your spyder's nanny will not accept that, dunno if the wheel itself is interchangeable

 

[BajaRon]

Pulley cannot be changed, your spyder's nanny will not accept that, dunno if the wheel itself is interchangeable

Why would the Nanny care about pulley size? How would she even know?

 

[larryd]

Why would the Nanny care about pulley size? How would she even know?

Several RT owners, me included, have tried to change our 1330 RT rear pulleys from the stock 79 tooth set up to the F3 89 tooth rear sprockets...No one has been successful as far as I know...The "NANNY" doesn't allow it and it goes into the limp mode...

There have also been several F3 owners that wanted to change their rear pulleys from 89 T to 79 T, AND others that wanted to go the other way from 79 T to 89 T...NO ONE that I know of has succeeded...The "NANNY" doesn't allow it and they go into the limp mode...

I'm sure there is a doable fix but the tuners have NOT accomplished the fix as of yet???

I have a 89 T rear sprocket and belt, NEW in stock, hoping for this to become available...

I've talked to Steve at Monster several times about doing this fix and even offered the pulley and belt to him to get this figured out...Steve had done one for a USA customer and was also working with another from Japan trying to get this to work...Steve had NO success...They had it working but the Spyders all developed other issues after the sprocket changes...

I also talked to Jass a tuner from down under...He said he thought he had done some sprocket changes successfully but was in the process of moving and he'd look thru his notes and contact me back...Never heard anything back...And he never answered any future responses on this subject...

So if ANYONE has a fix for the sprocket change please let me know...I will be interested in purchasing this "fix"

larryd

 

[mecsw500]

I believe the Australian Spyders, certain types and generations, used the smaller rear sprocket to achieve higher gearing to help get through the stringent noise regulations. They also used the longer silencers from other models to replace the shorter mufflers found on some bikes.

My guess would be that bikes for those markets have different software loaded into their ECU's to account for the gearing changes otherwise the change in vehicle speed relative to the engine rpm's and the gear it was in would cause the ECU to think something was wrong with at least one of the sensors somewhere. Whether BUDS can be used to select the final drive gearing ratio (i.e. which final drive sprocket is used) independently of the market the bike is sold into, I don't know. Perhaps someone with a BUDS license could answer that question if it doesn't contravene their software licensing agreement.

 

[larryd]

I believe the Australian Spyders, certain types and generations, used the smaller rear sprocket to achieve higher gearing to help get through the stringent noise regulations. They also used the longer silencers from other models to replace the shorter mufflers found on some bikes.

My guess would be that bikes for those markets have different software loaded into their ECU's to account for the gearing changes otherwise the change in vehicle speed relative to the engine rpm's and the gear it was in would cause the ECU to think something was wrong with at least one of the sensors somewhere. Whether BUDS can be used to select the final drive gearing ratio (i.e. which final drive sprocket is used) independently of the market the bike is sold into, I don't know. Perhaps someone with a BUDS license could answer that question if it doesn't contravene their software licensing agreement.

There are F3 models sold in the USA market that some come equipped with 79 T and others with 89 T rear sprockets. The 89 T models perform and accelerate much quicker than the 79 T models. I agree it's all in the programing (somewhere). But several USA owners of F3's have tried to change their rear sprockets either way but to the best of my knowledge none have succeeded. larryd

 

[blacklightning]

There are F3 models sold in the USA market that some come equipped with 79 T and others with 89 T rear sprockets. The 89 T models perform and accelerate much quicker than the 79 T models. I agree it's all in the programing (somewhere). But several USA owners of F3's have tried to change their rear sprockets either way but to the best of my knowledge none have succeeded. larryd

:agree: I know this would really be reaching out there. But if I had the funds, I would really like to take a F3S and redo the entire drivetrain to a 2nd generation Vmax. That engine has enough torque for the extra weight and makes tons of hp without having to rev to the moon like a lot of the inline 4-cylinder Japanese bikes. That would be my perfect combination. If I ever have the extra funds to just throw at something, that would be my project. I have seen V8 engines put in almost anything, I don't see why no one has done this.

 

[mecsw500]

:agree: I know this would really be reaching out there. But if I had the funds, I would really like to take a F3S and redo the entire drivetrain to a 2nd generation Vmax. That engine has enough torque for the extra weight and makes tons of hp without having to rev to the moon like a lot of the inline 4-cylinder Japanese bikes. That would be my perfect combination. If I ever have the extra funds to just throw at something, that would be my project. I have seen V8 engines put in almost anything, I don't see why no one has done this.

Getting off topic here, but the electronics are what keeps the Spyder being somewhat rideable. Just removing all the safety and control systems from a stock bike would probably make it uncontrollable enough on public roads. Putting a V-Max V4 in there would be even more impossible to ride. So you would have to put all the safety and control systems back, so you would end up back where you started but with a bike that was far more unbalanced weight wise. More power with less stability system intervention is not going to make the bike either faster or more fun to ride, just make it uncontrollable unless you were a very accomplished stunt rider. This would be especially true of the V-Max motor, when it reaches that V-boost region and power comes in so quick and strong, the Spyder would probably light up the back tire and be all over the place before you could retain control on a public road.

 

[BajaRon]

Several RT owners, me included, have tried to change our 1330 RT rear pulleys from the stock 79 tooth set up to the F3 89 tooth rear sprockets...No one has been successful as far as I know...The "NANNY" doesn't allow it and it goes into the limp mode...

There have also been several F3 owners that wanted to change their rear pulleys from 89 T to 79 T, AND others that wanted to go the other way from 79 T to 89 T...NO ONE that I know of has succeeded...The "NANNY" doesn't allow it and they go into the limp mode...

I'm sure there is a doable fix but the tuners have NOT accomplished the fix as of yet???

I have a 89 T rear sprocket and belt, NEW in stock, hoping for this to become available...

I've talked to Steve at Monster several times about doing this fix and even offered the pulley and belt to him to get this figured out...Steve had done one for a USA customer and was also working with another from Japan trying to get this to work...Steve had NO success...They had it working but the Spyders all developed other issues after the sprocket changes...

I also talked to Jass a tuner from down under...He said he thought he had done some sprocket changes successfully but was in the process of moving and he'd look thru his notes and contact me back...Never heard anything back...And he never answered any future responses on this subject...

So if ANYONE has a fix for the sprocket change please let me know...I will be interested in purchasing this "fix"

larryd

They must be matching engine RPM to wheel RPM. Makes sense. If it were only the wheel sensors, there would be no way for the computer to know that a sprocket change had been made.

 

[blacklightning]

Getting off topic here, but the electronics are what keeps the Spyder being some what ride-able. Just removing all the safety and control systems from a stock bike would probably make it uncontrollable enough on public roads. Putting a V-Max V4 in there would be even more impossible to ride. So you would have to put all the safety and control systems back, so you would end up back where you started but with a bike that was far more unbalanced weight wise. More power with less stability system intervention is not going to make the bike either faster or more fun to ride, just make it uncontrollable unless you were a very accomplished stunt rider. This would be especially true of the V-Max motor, when it reaches that V-boost region and power comes in so quick and strong, the Spyder would probably light up the back tire and be all over the place before you could retain control on a public road.

I know that what you are saying is 100% true. But I just like to dream sometimes. BTW, the 2nd gen Vmax engine doesn't have the V-Boost anymore. The engine is pretty much always in the Vboost mode. I used to love to have people walk up to me and talk about knowing someone who had a Vmax and how fast it was with the 145 hp. Then when I would tell them this one has 197 hp, stops on a dime, and can take curves very nicely, their mouth would always drop open. My vision for putting a 2nd gen engine in a spyder would be based more on the way it is done with the ZX14 and hayabusa engines in the little 3 wheeled cars. Mostly a novelty, but only using the spyder as a frame. No spyder electronics or anything. Yes, it would be dangerous, but it could be a lot of fun.

 

[Cobranut]

Some of us like stuff that's a little bit dangerous. LOL

I have 2 cars that are in the 4 pound/HP range. No traction control or stability control on either.
They're lots of fun, but I certainly wouldn't let just anyone drive them.

I drove a friends 1,200 HP GTR. That thing was a beast, but anyone could drive it with all the nanny's on.
Turn them off though, and it was an absolute blast to drive. 4-wheel burnouts at highway speed. LMAO

 

[mecsw500]

Many years ago, when I lived in England, I had a Lotus 7 with about a dyno-ed 145 bhp on tap. It was exciting enough and had no nanny aids nor even just ABS. However, it had a very, very low center of gravity. However, give a Spyder RT like mine the same power to weight ratio as the Lotus and take all the electronic aids away and due to its high C-of-G, different weight distribution, wheelbase, etc, it probably wouldn’t be much fun to ride for the majority of people who buy them. It’s not aimed at the same audience as a Lotus 7.

If I think back and if my Lotus 7 had the same electronic capabilities as the Spyder I’m sure I could have got the 7 to lap a fair bit quicker. Just ABS alone would knock seconds off per lap. Tuning a Vanderhall or Polaris, or any other cycle car style vehicles with enhanced performance is one thing, but I think a resulting Spyder would be more of a handful to control and actually less fun as a result.

Having a car that is a bit of a handful is one thing, where the performance if handled correctly goes really fast, against a Spyder where additional performance without stability control might just be such that it takes 100% of your concentration keeping it pointing in the right direction and keeping it on the road. The weight transfer of the rider so high up on the bike would be a real challenge to control in and out of corners. A bit more power would be acceptable to some, but losing the electronic aids would make the vehicle a whole less fun and probably much slower to ride anywhere near the limit.

There are, or have been, turbo kits I believe for the Spyder, but I don’t think any of them turn off the stability control. I’m sure the low compression, low revving, 1330 cc triple would be a good candidate for a low boost turbo and about 150 bhp, but a turbo coming on boost would probably depend upon the rider’s aids even more.

 

[jcthorne]

Many years ago, when I lived in England, I had a Lotus 7 with about a dyno-ed 145 bhp on tap. It was exciting enough and had no nanny aids nor even just ABS. However, it had a very, very low center of gravity. However, give a Spyder RT like mine the same power to weight ratio as the Lotus and take all the electronic aids away and due to its high C-of-G, different weight distribution, wheelbase, etc, it probably wouldn’t be much fun to ride for the majority of people who buy them. It’s not aimed at the same audience as a Lotus 7.

If I think back and if my Lotus 7 had the same electronic capabilities as the Spyder I’m sure I could have got the 7 to lap a fair bit quicker. Just ABS alone would knock seconds off per lap. Tuning a Vanderhall or Polaris, or any other cycle car style vehicles with enhanced performance is one thing, but I think a resulting Spyder would be more of a handful to control and actually less fun as a result.

Having a car that is a bit of a handful is one thing, where the performance if handled correctly goes really fast, against a Spyder where additional performance without stability control might just be such that it takes 100% of your concentration keeping it pointing in the right direction and keeping it on the road. The weight transfer of the rider so high up on the bike would be a real challenge to control in and out of corners. A bit more power would be acceptable to some, but losing the electronic aids would make the vehicle a whole less fun and probably much slower to ride anywhere near the limit.

There are, or have been, turbo kits I believe for the Spyder, but I don’t think any of them turn off the stability control. I’m sure the low compression, low revving, 1330 cc triple would be a good candidate for a low boost turbo and about 150 bhp, but a turbo coming on boost would probably depend upon the rider’s aids even more.

The 1330 engine is 12.5:1 compression so not well suited to forced induction as is.

And on the OPs question on rear wheels, All 2015 and later Spyders, RT and F3 use the same rear wheel. Some F3S still get the larger performance rear sprocket. The later wheel is also the current replacement part for the earlier 2 piece rear wheel.