Intermittent Power Steering problem

[CaptRalph]

Took my Spyder in for upgrade on Power Steering, Done Power Steering Upgrade two weeks waiting on it, started home and noticed it was shimming between 59 and 60 mph. Did not have any shimming when I took it in for upgrade, after 10 weeks of being in shop and repairing everything on frontend they called again to pick it up and 10 miles from shop I called the shop back told them I still had same problem between 59 and 63mph and I still have the shimming problem. Trying to get in touch with BRP Rep is a joke. They put three sets of tires on my bike and rims, all new steering, all new axle bearings in front, all new rotars, all new tie rod ends even a new drive belt and checked rear wheel bearings and still have the shimming. My bike has been in shop a total of 3 months total. Missed a lot of good riding this summer. I like the bike but would like to have some satisfaction of knowing that it is fixed and safe to ride. This all started from power steering recall, had know front end shimming before this. Has any body else had this sort of problem. At this point I am not sure I would purchase another till their technology improves. Unhappy Spyder rider.

I looked in here to see if anyone had experienced shimming problems at 60 MPH, and lo & Behold, there it is. We cheked for anything loose and everything appears tight, but I have a really bad vibration (shimming!!!) right around 60 mph, ONLY!!! Above 65 or so is fine and below 55 or so is fine. I had to have the upgrade done since my steering locked up a couple of times. It cured the locking up, but I've had nothing but problems since. First, it was riding like crap, sometimes coughing and sputtering like crazy so bad I thought the engine would blow up or something!

I did the canisterectomy and it cured the sputtering, hesitation & coughing for the most part. I still don't think is running perfect but much, much better than after the software upgrade.

Now this damn shimming has been getting worse and it looks like its also related to the darned software. It's actually pretty scary, you can tell that it's NOT a balancing problem because its not only one tire, but the entire front end shaking violently!!!

I'm also experiencing "Check Engine" messages when I start up cold. Also sometimes the "oil" red indicator stays on when the engine is running. There is a plenty of oil in the reservoir. If one of these indicators stay on after I start the bike, I have to turn it off, remove the key, then restart it. It has cleared it every time so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed...

2 hours away from the dealer and very little faith in their abilities keeps me from running back to them with all these problems. I have two other dealers closer (1 hr and the other 1-1/2 hrs, but they are actually worse than the one in Tampa).

All these issues make it hard to STAY a HAPPY OWNER. I would be much happier if my :spyder: was not giving me all these problems...:gaah:

 

[NancysToy]

I looked in here to see if anyone had experienced shimming problems at 60 MPH, and lo & Behold, there it is. We cheked for anything loose and everything appears tight, but I have a really bad vibration (shimming!!!) right around 60 mph, ONLY!!! Above 65 or so is fine and below 55 or so is fine. I had to have the upgrade done since my steering locked up a couple of times. It cured the locking up, but I've had nothing but problems since. First, it was riding like crap, sometimes coughing and sputtering like crazy so bad I thought the engine would blow up or something!

I did the canisterectomy and it cured the sputtering, hesitation & coughing for the most part. I still don't think is running perfect but much, much better than after the software upgrade.

Now this damn shimming has been getting worse and it looks like its also related to the darned software. It's actually pretty scary, you can tell that it's NOT a balancing problem because its not only one tire, but the entire front end shaking violently!!!

I'm also experiencing "Check Engine" messages when I start up cold. Also sometimes the "oil" red indicator stays on when the engine is running. There is a plenty of oil in the reservoir. If one of these indicators stay on after I start the bike, I have to turn it off, remove the key, then restart it. It has cleared it every time so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed...

2 hours away from the dealer and very little faith in their abilities keeps me from running back to them with all these problems. I have two other dealers closer (1 hr and the other 1-1/2 hrs, but they are actually worse than the one in Tampa).

All these issues make it hard to STAY a HAPPY OWNER. I would be much happier if my :spyder: was not giving me all these problems...:gaah:

So sorry that you are still having problems, and that you can't seem to find a competent dealer. These are certainly problems that will need a dealer to repair. First the shimmy. It is not absolutely impossible, but it is highly unlikely that the shimmying is caused by a software problem, or even a bad DPS unit or steering sensor. I'd still make a bet that you have seriously worn suspension parts, and maybe an alignment problem to boot. Most commonly reported problems are worn tie-rod ends, worn shock bushings (totally gone), bad ball joints, or worn A-frame ends. These are not easy to find, and can be readily missed on casual inspection.

As to the rough running, you need the second (ECM) update. This problem after the steering update is well known and all too common. The second update seems to have cured it successfully. As to the check engine code. the dealer can hook to BUDS and see the historic codes, as well as any current codes. There are a number of possible causes. The oil pressure light is a problem that needs immediate attention, also by a dealer. It is probably a bad oil pressure sensor, but only the dealer can determine that. If it is a marginal oil pump, ignoring it can destroy the engine.

It is a pain, but this is what I would do. First, I would report the problem, and what the dealers have done so far to Carlo via the BRP support line. Email is usually better than by phone. Carlo will usually get back to you. Then, after Carlo contacts you, and you both agree on a dealer, take your Spyder there and leave it. Phone them every day or two to get an update on the status. Speak to the technician instead of the service writer if you can. I know that's a pain, but it will be necessary. When you get it back, insist on a test ride before you sign off on the service. If the problems remain, leave the Spyder and call Carlo again. Any pain and agony you go through will be worth the effort. Even if you decide to sell the Spyder and move on, it will need to be mechanically sound. Also, speak to the owner of the dealership about the problem and your lack of confidence in their service department. This is especially helpful if you purchased the Spyder there. Doesn't always help, but sure can't hurt. Finally, look into the lemon laws in your state and let your dealer know that you are doing so. Our state does not cover motorcycles, but many do. The thought of possible legal action can be a good motivator, though.

Best of luck!

 

[CaptRalph]

So sorry that you are still having problems, and that you can't seem to find a competent dealer. These are certainly problems that will need a dealer to repair. First the shimmy. It is not absolutely impossible, but it is highly unlikely that the shimmying is caused by a software problem, or even a bad DPS unit or steering sensor. I'd still make a bet that you have seriously worn suspension parts, and maybe an alignment problem to boot. Most commonly reported problems are worn tie-rod ends, worn shock bushings (totally gone), bad ball joints, or worn A-frame ends. These are not easy to find, and can be readily missed on casual inspection.

As to the rough running, you need the second (ECM) update. This problem after the steering update is well known and all too common. The second update seems to have cured it successfully. As to the check engine code. the dealer can hook to BUDS and see the historic codes, as well as any current codes. There are a number of possible causes. The oil pressure light is a problem that needs immediate attention, also by a dealer. It is probably a bad oil pressure sensor, but only the dealer can determine that. If it is a marginal oil pump, ignoring it can destroy the engine.

It is a pain, but this is what I would do. First, I would report the problem, and what the dealers have done so far to Carlo via the BRP support line. Email is usually better than by phone. Carlo will usually get back to you. Then, after Carlo contacts you, and you both agree on a dealer, take your Spyder there and leave it. Phone them every day or two to get an update on the status. Speak to the technician instead of the service writer if you can. I know that's a pain, but it will be necessary. When you get it back, insist on a test ride before you sign off on the service. If the problems remain, leave the Spyder and call Carlo again. Any pain and agony you go through will be worth the effort. Even if you decide to sell the Spyder and move on, it will need to be mechanically sound. Also, speak to the owner of the dealership about the problem and your lack of confidence in their service department. This is especially helpful if you purchased the Spyder there. Doesn't always help, but sure can't hurt. Finally, look into the lemon laws in your state and let your dealer know that you are doing so. Our state does not cover motorcycles, but many do. The thought of possible legal action can be a good motivator, though.

Best of luck!

Thanks for the tips Scotty, I'll call the Dealer tomorrow and hold my breath. They "aligned" my Spyder about 1,000 miles ago (I had to pay or it, which I thought it was BS since it takes a few thousand miles to show the wear on the tire) because it was eating a front tire on the inside. They also did the dreaded 1st upgrade, I mean downgrade, which started all the problems. By the way, I'm not selling my bike I'm a happy owner, I'm just a lot less happier than I feel I could be. I wish you luck on the RT. Personally, I'll wait a couple years to let you guys (instead of BRP, cause we all know how slooow they react) work out the slew of problems that are sure to follow...