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Instrument panel won't light up after jump start - what fuse?

louk

New member
I managed to kill my battery on my F3, and tried to jump start the bike. The instrument panel won't light up. Can somebody help me find the right fuse (s) to check?

Lou
 
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& or just systematically check fuses one by one. High to low (one by one so don’t accidentally swap something)
 
I managed to kill my battery on my F3, and tried to jump start the bike. The instrument panel won't light up. Can somebody help me find the right fuse (s) to check?

Lou

Exactly ....HOW ... did you try to jumpstart ???? ...Mike :thumbup:
 
Exactly ....HOW ... did you try to jumpstart ???? ...Mike :thumbup:

Good question. Not sure how a jump start would blow a fuse. Hopefully, that's all it is. Always hook up the positive first. And don't use some remote location on the bike for the negative cable.
 
1. How did you "kill" your battery?

2. What did you use to jump-start your F3 -- another battery or a high-current charger?

3. Did you leave the F3 battery connected during the jump-start?

4. By "tried" do you mean the jump-start wasn't successful?

5. What parts of the instrument panel aren't lighting up -- all of it (eg warning indicators) or just the LCD?

6. When you press the brake pedal do the brake lights illuminate? When you push the horn button does the horn sound?
 
Instrument panel won't light up

1. How did you "kill" your battery?

2. What did you use to jump-start your F3 -- another battery or a high-current charger?

3. Did you leave the F3 battery connected during the jump-start?

4. By "tried" do you mean the jump-start wasn't successful?

5. What parts of the instrument panel aren't lighting up -- all of it (eg warning indicators) or just the LCD?

6. When you press the brake pedal do the brake lights illuminate? When you push the horn button does the horn sound?

1. I had a boating socket attached directly to my battery - didn't realize it had a light. Didn't have an opportunity to ride for most of the summer=dead battery.

2. I used a battery pack - it started my lawn mower quite handily.

3. Yup.

4. Did not start.

5. Nothing electric on the bike is working.

6. The battery is out of the bike now - it has no voltage.
 
1. I had a boating socket attached directly to my battery - didn't realize it had a light. Didn't have an opportunity to ride for most of the summer=dead battery.

2. I used a battery pack - it started my lawn mower quite handily.

3. Yup.

4. Did not start.

5. Nothing electric on the bike is working.

6. The battery is out of the bike now - it has no voltage.

I'd say you answered your own question. If the original battery is absolutely dead, it could even be shorted. Not enough oomph in the jump to exceed the 11.1v threshold (Under Load) needed to get your Spyder to where it could function properly. Until you install a fully charged, serviceable battery with clean, tight connections, there isn't any way to troubleshoot this any further. It is very possible that doing this will resolve all your issues.
 
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I'd say you answered your own question. If the original battery is absolutely dead, it could even be shorted. Not enough oomph in the jump to exceed the 11.1v threshold (Under Load) needed to get your Spyder to where it could function properly. Until you install a fully charged, serviceable battery with clean, tight connections, there isn't any way to troubleshoot this any further. It is very possible that doing this will resolve all your issues.

Let me add, if do get a new battery ..... put it on a charger anyway ... (don't assume it's fully charged) It can be done with a battery maintainer but if so, expect it to take at least 3 Days ......good luck ... Mike :thumbup: Also ( very important ) use STAR washers on all the Battery terminals..... they will NEVER loosen by themselves
 
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