• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Instead of canisterectomy I tried

M2Wild

Senile Member
I did my DPS update last fall and missed the update to the update (2nd one) by about a week. It ran fine for a few times after that in fall temperature and soon after I put it away for the winter.

This spring Spyder ran fine when it was cold but once it gets into its normal "hot" running temp in this nice 80+ spring temp, it started to really spit and pop at lower gears and de-cel. Read up on this board and realized I needed the 2nd update to address the evap vent timing but too time consuming to take it down to the dealer and too lazy to perform the canisterectomy.

Instead, I tried a shortcut which seems to have worked so far. All I did was to plug up the "U" shaped vent hose with a bolt and secure it with a tiny hose clamp to prevent air from getting in or out. My fuel tank now will hiss a bit when I open it to refill. I think I do have a one way fuel tank valve from my SeaDoo jet laying around somewhere that I am going to put it on. This way the tank will vent its pressure but it won't allow air to flow in. Yup, that might just be the shortcut I am looking for. Hate to have the mixture richened up to kill overall gas milage.
 
I did my DPS update last fall and missed the update to the update (2nd one) by about a week. It ran fine for a few times after that in fall temperature and soon after I put it away for the winter.

This spring Spyder ran fine when it was cold but once it gets into its normal "hot" running temp in this nice 80+ spring temp, it started to really spit and pop at lower gears and de-cel. Read up on this board and realized I needed the 2nd update to address the evap vent timing but too time consuming to take it down to the dealer and too lazy to perform the canisterectomy.

Instead, I tried a shortcut which seems to have worked so far. All I did was to plug up the "U" shaped vent hose with a bolt and secure it with a tiny hose clamp to prevent air from getting in or out. My fuel tank now will hiss a bit when I open it to refill. I think I do have a one way fuel tank valve from my SeaDoo jet laying around somewhere that I am going to put it on. This way the tank will vent its pressure but it won't allow air to flow in. Yup, that might just be the shortcut I am looking for. Hate to have the mixture richened up to kill overall gas milage.

when it gets hot, be careful when opening gas cap. last year when i was refueling in 100 degree weather and someone took my attention with questions and i opened gas cap quick and gas spewed out like geyser. there was a kink in hose i ran toward back of spyder and caused the pressure to build.
 
That would be a good idea, and you may just need to bite the bullet so to speak and take it in for the other update. Best of luck with it.
 
The problem with check valves is that after a hot day the vacuum that develops when it cools down may just collapse your tank.:yikes:
 
The problem with check valves is that after a hot day the vacuum that develops when it cools down may just collapse your tank.:yikes:
I certainly hope not. Spyder's tank seems to be pretty beefy and valve is plastic and rubber. I also would think the low atomspheric pressure in the tank will promote the gas to evap into vapor and fill the void. But I am getting together a healthy list of things that needs to be taken care of by the dealer. So a visit in the near future is not without a question.
 
I certainly hope not. Spyder's tank seems to be pretty beefy and valve is plastic and rubber. I also would think the low atomspheric pressure in the tank will promote the gas to evap into vapor and fill the void. But I am getting together a healthy list of things that needs to be taken care of by the dealer. So a visit in the near future is not without a question.

I thought about all that when I wrote the comment.....still I remember something about collapsed tanks on BMWs in relation to the gas cannister and it occasionally producing vacuums sufficient to collapse the tank.
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24731

Simple to remove the canister from the vent system....suggest that instead.:D
 
Back
Top