Installing Baja Ron Sway Bar

[wmjkweber02]

I am slowly getting used to my new 2019 F3L, but I still find it squirrely. I don't know if I will ever get comfortable with those off camber turns. They really tighten me up and there sure seem to be a lot more of them than I remember on my motorcycle rides. Anyway, from the comments on this forum, the new sway bar should help.

I have the sway bar, but am not sure of my ability to get it installed. The dealer has quoted me 3 hours of labor (at $120/hour) to install it. That seems like 2-3 times what it should take for someone with experience and the proper tools. At that price, I would really like to install it myself. I have done quite a bit of wrenching in my day but age and arthritis have significantly reduced my strength and flexibility. I think I should be able to handle it, but am not completely certain. The instructions seem straightforward, but I know from experience that can be deceiving. I have found a video for replacing it on the RT, but have been unable to find any videos for the F3.

Lifting the front end makes me nervous. I have a floor jack and jack stands as well as a scissor jack from my car, but it is unclear where to place them on the axle. I don't want to bend or break anything. Is there anything especially tricky about this replacement that I should know about? How about anything that would be particularly difficult for someone with limited mobility?

Thanks for any help.

 

[krakum1967]

I jacked mine on e side at a time, I used the A arm, and went up 6 inches, set, the jack stand, then I did the other side. I had chocks on the front and back edge of the rear tire to stop the rolling. I then jacked each side up to 12 inches and set the jack stands. Make sure the E brake is set too. Once you are up in the air, it goes fast, I think 3 hours is a gross over estimate in time on the job, I did mine with manual jacks, not a lift like at the dealer, in 1.5 hours. My very first job on the Can Am.

I have the older RSS, but the concepts are the same, remove the old links and bar, hand the new bar, and install the links, its VERY straightforward....I was sure to have my Harbor Frieght 3/8 inch torque wrench handy, I wanted to be sure being it was a front end that I did not OVER torque and cause damage, and I would not have to lift the trike again.

The longest part of the job was getting it in the air, thats why I was a little surprised at the 3 hour bid, a trained mech can do this in an hour EASILY using a lift and the power tools.

It's easy peasy, jump on in, and it made a HUGE difference in that Lean Yaw I felt in cornering. Mine is flat in the turns and much more stable in the twisty road conditions I live in since adding my Baja Ron Bar and End Links. I personally feel the PLASTIC end links Can Am uses are the issue.... have fun with it, and its a big ride improvement.

 

[krakum1967]

I put my jacks under where the front shock meets the A arm, and left enough room to set my jack stand near there as close to the tire as possible. Lift 6 inches at a time is my recommendation. I am sure I caused the issue that caused my trike to slip by jacking it in the air 16 inches at a time. Do it in stages, its much safer, especially if you have light jack stands. And BE SURE TO CHOCK THE FRONT AND BACK SIDE OF THE REAR TIRE EVEN IF YOU SET THE BRAKE...Safety first.

 

[krakum1967]

And three hours...ouch, I did not allow that kind of bidding when I owned my shop.....I did my Dodge Darts Sway Bar in less time....thats punitive IMHO.

 

[krakum1967]

I have the smallest Craftsmen 2.5 ton Auto Floor Jack I bought for work on the dart. OHHH, this was dumb of me. Harbor Freight sells a pair of SOLID RUBBER Oil changing ramps that sell for 45 dollars. If you look in the back of any Rider Magazine, there will be a Harbor Freight ad with a 20 percent Coupon. If can save you 15 bucks off those ramps. They work PERFECTLY on the Can Am. I did not find out that they worked until I did my oil change, and they did an awesome job. I knew I was forgetting something. I good reliable and safe lifting method for 30 bucks if you have a Harbor Freight near by. They will ship as well.

 

[troop]

Guess I'm kinda lucky, as the local shop quoted me $125 for install. I'm generally a DIY kind of guy, but thinking I'm going the shop route on this as I'll have them follow with a laser alignment for another $125. I'm also fortunate enough that I trust the local dealer

 

[RICZ]

Sounds like you are new to spydering - so am I. I was all hot to get a swaybar for the same reasons you state, but the more time and miles I got under my belt, the more proficient I became. I'm at the 700 mile mark and only recently got in tune with riding my F3L. Now I am putting off the swaybar and car tires until I am really riding more aggressively, then I will know the difference. So give yourself time.
I too thought the bike was squirelly, but after taking the advice of those on this forum, all is good and under control. Yeah, those left handers can be spooky alright, but after a while, you'll overcome that. The MAIN thing is to be very loose on the bars - loose arms and open hands. The power steering is very sensitive to any inputs.
The F3 (according to many on this forum) is the sport car, while the RT is the Buick. Many F3 owners never install a sway bar and I may be one of them. My advice is to accumulate 1,000 miles at least, then decide to put it on. Maybe you'll cross paths with another F3 owner who will help to install it. If that time comes that I want one, I'm 83 and will do it myself. I do not trust others with tools and my stuff.

 

[BajaRon]

The F3 is the easiest sway bar install of any model since the 2013's came out. A shop that knows what they are doing can get one of these bar kits swapped out in about 30 minutes. What that dealership was telling you is one of 2 things. 1- They had no idea what they were doing. or 2- That they didn't want to do the work. But if they did. They were going to make a killing on it.

Lifting the front is the most difficult part of the process. It only needs to be that high for the actual old bar out, new bar in process. Probably 5 minutes. Everything else that needs to be done before and after this bar swap step can be done at a much lower height.

I am not saying you should or should not do the work yourself. You know your abilities. I am saying that if you take your time and work safely. You will probably find the job easier than you imagine. Most people do this install in 1.5 hours or less. If you have any questions you can always get me at [email protected], or call me at 423-552-3720. We both want this to go as smoothly as possible!

 

[JayBros]

To the OP, I know you're in CA but where is the stealership hiding the gun?

 

[blacklightning]

I am thinking about doing mine this spring. In order to get it in the air, I am looking at pulling it up on some ramps that will be resting on the rear of my truck (the rear will be lowered in order to keep the angle down). Then I will tie it off, set the brakes, block the tires, and go to work. This seems to be the quickest and easiest way to get access without jacking the bike up.

 

[jcthorne]

We install these for 1/2 hour labor. Its just not a difficult job on a lift with the right tools.

 

[krakum1967]

My plastic end links were bent and distorted when I removed them, I truly feel they would have failed over time. To me just knowing the plastic is not on that set up is VERY comforting, I think thats a horrible design flaw.

And after reviewing my methods, it did not need to come up as high as I had it. I was doing the bar and links, the oil, all my performance mods, the exhaust, checking the drive belt, etc....so my RS-S was in the air on stands for most of the months of November and December waiting for parts. But to do the bar, 6 or so inches would have sufficed.

 

[krakum1967]

@ troop, 125 for the job, and 125 for the alignement, I would do that for sure, I need to get mine alignment done, I think I am good, but want to be sure....I thought my Dodge Dart was aligned until I had the tires done, boy was I wrong.....

 

[krakum1967]

At JCTHORNE, I think when my shop was up, I might have quoted the hour, and billed for a half hour, it really was straight forward after I lifted it, what 8 bolts?

I would come to your shop by the way, you seem to have fair estimates. Its getting hard to find these days. I love working on my stuff, but there are things I will have done for sure, I am getting older.

 

[JS3535]

I am slowly getting used to my new 2019 F3L, but I still find it squirrely. I don't know if I will ever get comfortable with those off camber turns. They really tighten me up and there sure seem to be a lot more of them than I remember on my motorcycle rides. Anyway, from the comments on this forum, the new sway bar should help.

I have the sway bar, but am not sure of my ability to get it installed. The dealer has quoted me 3 hours of labor (at $120/hour) to install it. That seems like 2-3 times what it should take for someone with experience and the proper tools. At that price, I would really like to install it myself. I have done quite a bit of wrenching in my day but age and arthritis have significantly reduced my strength and flexibility. I think I should be able to handle it, but am not completely certain. The instructions seem straightforward, but I know from experience that can be deceiving. I have found a video for replacing it on the RT, but have been unable to find any videos for the F3.

Lifting the front end makes me nervous. I have a floor jack and jack stands as well as a scissor jack from my car, but it is unclear where to place them on the axle. I don't want to bend or break anything. Is there anything especially tricky about this replacement that I should know about? How about anything that would be particularly difficult for someone with limited mobility?

Thanks for any help.

Where are you located in CA? If you are willing to ride to me, I will install it for you. If you want to do it yourself & safely, dig a little trench and roll the bike over it. It’s a lot easier and safer vs lifting it 2 feet in the air.

 

[blacklightning]

My plastic end links were bent and distorted when I removed them, I truly feel they would have failed over time. To me just knowing the plastic is not on that set up is VERY comforting, I think thats a horrible design flaw.

And after reviewing my methods, it did not need to come up as high as I had it. I was doing the bar and links, the oil, all my performance mods, the exhaust, checking the drive belt, etc....so my RS-S was in the air on stands for most of the months of November and December waiting for parts. But to do the bar, 6 or so inches would have sufficed.

Wow, that sounds great. So, from this, it sounds like you could pull the bike up on a set of car ramps and get the job done. Looks like I have another project for when it warms a little.

 

[Ex-Rocket]

When I had my 2015 RTS, I changed out the swaybar, I had to lift the Spyder pretty high in order to get the old swaybar out and get the new bar in. So just getting your Spyder rolled up on some car ramps is not high enough. Maybe I'm wrong about the F3 but I think you also have to get the F3 pretty high to get the swaybar out and the new one in. I have not done the swaybar mod to my F3 Limited so I'm not sure. But I'm thinking I had my RTS about 18 inches to 2 feet high when I replaced the swaybar. Maybe others who have done the swap on the F3 will chime in.

 

[RICZ]

TO THOSE WHO HAVE HAD AN RT AND A F3.......
I am a member of a large Spyder club and I'm getting confusing information from others. Some say they when they had their RT, the handling improved a lot when adding a sway bar. But they felt their F3 comes with a stronger sway bar and doesn't need that improvement, just changing to metal links from the OEM plastic ones helps.
What say you??

 

[krakum1967]

@blacklightning and Ex-Rocket, I just checked my set up, and I have the trike on my HF ramps for the LaMonster Hwy Bars and I am going to wrap it later. Hell its snowed again, so more project time I guess. Anyway, I checked and I have plenty of room to do the bar change if needed (I already did it), BUT...I have an RSS, not the F3....I have about 16 inches of clearance on the bottom though and can move around pretty freely on my ramps.

At RICZ, honestly, I have to wonder if the Bar End change would have fixed the issues. The stock bar looks just fine, no chips or stress spots in the powder coating and its straight and true, I suppose I could magna-flux it quick to check for stress cracks, but I intend to sell the stock sway bar, not the links though, I already tossed those. I think if you did the end links only, you are likely fixing the issue, you can always pick up the bar later if needed.

 

[krakum1967]

However, I am impressed with BajaRon's Stuff, I even did the wire kit, and I noticed the difference there too. Not knocking his bar at all.....