• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Installed RT shocks today..

Status
Not open for further replies.
Firefly

Firefly

Active member
Well, instead of going to the expense of the Elka or Penske shocks--- I decided to order some RT shocks after reading the positive feedback from Lamont trying them on his GS/RS.

You have to order all the parts separate (at least I didn't see the option of a completed shock). You need to be able to compress the spring in order to put them together.... I had a buddy that owns a service shop do it--- only took them a few minutes.

Brought them back to my shop and installed them--- took less than 20 minutes to swap them out...did it without removing the trunk.... tight to get in and do it--- but what isn't on the Spyder???

I adjusted them to the 4th firmest position... no chance to ride yet.

Adjusting the cams seemed tighter than on the other shocks--- I needed some extra leverage and found a 3/4" socket and wrench work just great... see photo.

Hope to ride this weekend!
 
I went with the Billet shock adjusters ($89.99 for two). I thought maybe they would be stronger and look a bit better-- but they are pretty well hidden. Probably would just go with the regular adjusters (like we already have). The stock adjuster rings are # 706000294 and only cost $10 each -- so you can save some $$$ there.

You should be able to do the whole thing for $250 or less. Install was easy, but you'll really need to have someone with the right setup to mount the springs-- should be easy to find someone. My buddy has a really small auto shop and they did it in minutes--- and it only cost me a couple beers---:thumbup:

I did this for better handling and because I've got a fair amount of weight (right now - but not for long) and figured these might help. I have the sway bar upgrade installed too--- very interested to see what difference these make. The service manual says you may notice uneven play in the shocks until each side has had a chance to compress a few times.


Here is what I ordered:


Mfg Product Number: 219400121
Description: SHOCK ADJUST. for Can-Am Order
Quantity: 1 Unit Price: $89.99 Total Cost: $89.99

Mfg Product Number: 706000675
Description: SHOCK for Can-Am
Order Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $72.49
Total Cost: $144.98

Mfg Product Number: 706000676
Description: SPRING for Can-Am
Order Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $37.49
Total Cost: $74.98

Mfg Product Number: 706200881
Description: SPRING STOPPER for Can-Am Order
Quantity: 2 Unit Price: $5.99 Total Cost: $11.98

Mfg Product Number: 706200785
Description: CAP for Can-Am
Order Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $2.49
Total Cost: $4.98

ORDER TOTALS:

Item Total: $326.91
 
Thanks for testing this out. Please keep us updated. I just put an airshock and auto tire in the rear, and I am looking for alternatives for the front. I also am a man of "extra girth".

I did install the sway bar, and noticed a difference with that. I am up to the top position on the stock shocks. Very little lean on corners, but she takes bumps hard, moreso now with the air shock and BF Goodrich in the rear.

I figure with a stronger spring, I can back off a little. Still experimenting with the airshock, trying to get the right combo of primary and back pressure for a softer ride, solo and two up. The BF Goodrigh prolly has a stiiffer sidewall than the stock. I already brought the presuure down to 27 from 35, I dont want to go any lower.
 
Last edited:
Couple of ways to see if pressure is correct.

Check the temp across the tire (both edges and center) after a ride.
Higher in center = too much air pressure High on edges = low pressure


Down and dirty way. (no special tool required and fun too! good excuse when you get caught as well)
Do a little burn out. Look at the mark. Should be even all the way across.
Dark edges = low pressure. Dark center = to much air
 
Thanks for posting all of the critical information on how to do this, and the part numbers FireFly. :thumbup:

I will be very interested in reading your first ryde report as well.
 
Fire,

That's a cool mod...I wonder how much difference it will make? By you listing all the parts, prices, etc...you help others if they want to go that way as well...very nice....:firstplace:
 
bone crusher said:
Fire,

That's a cool mod...I wonder how much difference it will make? By you listing all the parts, prices, etc...you help others if they want to go that way as well...very nice....:firstplace:
Click to expand...

It was Lamont's post that started it all--- he tried them on his and said they were really good--- perhaps close to the Elka's...... so I'm going by his opinion.... which we know is pretty darn good!:thumbup:
 
Firefly said:
It was Lamont's post that started it all--- he tried them on his and said they were really good--- perhaps close to the Elka's...... so I'm going by his opinion.... which we know is pretty darn good!:thumbup:
Click to expand...
I see by your avatar that your complexion has finally cleared up. :roflblack:
 
bone crusher said:
I know, thank goodness...we were worrying about the poor guy being blue all the time!
Click to expand...
Once upon a time, at the start of a long, cold Winter, Firefly said, "If I can't ryde my Spyder, I'm gonna hold my breath until my face turns blue." Thank goodness Spring has come at last! :joke:
 
Well--- had my first ride with the new shocks today.

My original shocks were set at position 4, so I put these new ones also at position 4 to make a good comparison.

At first the ride felt a bit strange, perhaps 'tight' would be the word. For sure not as much bounce. I now fully understand the feeling of what others say when they have said 'it's like it's on rails'.

After about 20 minutes I decided to change the setting down to position #3 and see how that felt. That seemed to feel a bit better (or more familiar) to me, so I left them there.

VSS doesn't engage as much. Far less 'roll' in corners. Took many that I ride on a regular basis and it just felt better going through them. Looked down at my speed and noticed I was going 85 in twisties that I typically take around 70-75...:yikes:. It just felt that comfortable in the curves.

So for $250 I'm VERY happy with this mod. I'm not sure how much better the Penske or Elka units operate, but I just can't see it being worth the extra grand or so.

For me the difference is well worth the $250. Not sure I would feel the same had I spent $2,000!

Still running the stock rear... might have to look into something there too eventually.
 
Firefly said:
Well--- had my first ride with the new shocks today.

My original shocks were set at position 4, so I put these new ones also at position 4 to make a good comparison.

At first the ride felt a bit strange, perhaps 'tight' would be the word. For sure not as much bounce. I now fully understand the feeling of what others say when they have said 'it's like it's on rails'.

After about 20 minutes I decided to change the setting down to position #3 and see how that felt. That seemed to feel a bit better (or more familiar) to me, so I left them there.

VSS doesn't engage as much. Far less 'roll' in corners. Took many that I ride on a regular basis and it just felt better going through them. Looked down at my speed and noticed I was going 85 in twisties that I typically take around 70-75...:yikes:. It just felt that comfortable in the curves.

So for $250 I'm VERY happy with this mod. I'm not sure how much better the Penske or Elka units operate, but I just can't see it being worth the extra grand or so.

For me the difference is well worth the $250. Not sure I would feel the same had I spent $2,000!

Still running the stock rear... might have to look into something there too eventually.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the ryde report on these. It sounds like it is a great combination with the sway bar, and well worth the investment as well. :thumbup:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

S
Review: M2 Spring Kit Upgrade for Spyders
Replies
5
Views
6K
BertRemington
B
J
My BajaRon Adjustable Shocks Impressions
Replies
2
Views
214
greer
G
agolder
What Front Shocks Recommendations for a 2020+ RT?
Replies
10
Views
529
troop
troop
Snoking1127
Installed a new General Altimax R45 today - My tips!
Replies
4
Views
547
PW2013STL
PW2013STL
C
Review: Got 7 Jurock Touring Windscreen 2022 RT-L - I'm impressed!
Replies
4
Views
754
Peteoz
Peteoz
Back
Top