Woodsrider
New member
Video cam wouldn't play in those tight spaces, but even without instructions it was dead easy. Caveats-I talk about jacking on the bypass pipe, I didn't break a manifold or mounts, but beware of the possibilities. Use at your own risk. Mileage may vary. For landlubbers, Port is left, Stbd is Right. Here goes:
Raise rear of spidey and support.
Remove muffler, two hex head with 13mm nuts on flange (don't lose springs!), 1 15mm bolt holding muffler to frame. You'll need socket-extension on the outside, wrench on the inside.
Set the muffler aside, and carefully remove the sealing doughnut from the cat. Place with muffler along with all the nuts, bolts, springs, spacers, washers.
Slide up front a bit, and fromunda you'll see a spring connecting manifold to cat (mine only had on starboard side). I used a vice grip and grabbed the spring, pulled down to remove from cat, and left it hanging.
Reach in with 10mm wrench or 1/4 in drive and 10mm socket and loosen the cat's manifold clamp. It's a typical exhaust band clamp.
Pop over to port side and do same. Mine didn't have a spring here.
Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the lower cat support in place.
Reach up and move the rubber upper cat support joint off of the cat (I was able to do by hand).
A little bit of wiggle up and down and cat will fall out (watch out, I mean FALL).
Transfer clamps, sensor plugs and center support over to bypass. Open up those clamps pretty far.
Use a muffler pipe expander and expand the ends on your new bypass. Make sure you have transferred the clamps first.
Insert new gaskets onto the manifold (both sides), or if you didn't buy new (you should), fish the old ones out if the cat and put on.
(optional) - Coat the OUTSIDES of the new gaskets with Walker 35959 compound. It's really nice if you find yourself pushing these on a few times
Push the PORT side up onto the manifold. You'll notice that you probably can't get both sides to go up at once. This steel has a bit of flex and between temp differences and production tolerances it just doesn't make it that easy. Get your port side on...make sure it goes all the way up. Get the clamp in the correct position (not too high or low) and orient the nut so you can reach it with your tool of choice. Tighten it down.
Now go to the STBD side, you'll see it just doesn't want to straight on, unless you were luckier than me and both went straight in. I used a floor jack and a block of wood, as far forward on the STBD pipe as I could, and slowly jacked up, I saw the pipe go on up, but a visual inspection showed it didn't go all the way. I took a bit of steel and made a wedge that had a wide end that sat on the jack, and a hook to go where the spring loop is on the new pipe, and jacked again. This put the force directly where it was needed and it slid home.
Tighten that clamp after making sure it's in the right place. Haul down on your vice grips, if you have a helper, they can use a screwdriver to help guide the spring hook into the loop. DO watch where your hands will go if the vise grips slip. Don't let him poke you in the eye or hand.
Put your upper support rubber on the new pipe.
Using the jack again, jack up the bypass pipe enough to line up the holes on the center support. Put some loctite on the threads and tighten those up.
Back to the exhaust pipe, put your donut on the bypass (the right way!), I put a bit of 35959 around the outside.
Place the muffler on the bypass and hang it by the body bolt but don't tighten that up yet.
Insert your flange bolts. The springs and spacer go on the bypass pipe side. Loctite and tighten those up.
Loctite the muffler body bolt and tighten.
While it's up, make sure brake is on, neutral, start and check for leaks.
Take it off the supports.
Ryde on.
Raise rear of spidey and support.
Remove muffler, two hex head with 13mm nuts on flange (don't lose springs!), 1 15mm bolt holding muffler to frame. You'll need socket-extension on the outside, wrench on the inside.
Set the muffler aside, and carefully remove the sealing doughnut from the cat. Place with muffler along with all the nuts, bolts, springs, spacers, washers.
Slide up front a bit, and fromunda you'll see a spring connecting manifold to cat (mine only had on starboard side). I used a vice grip and grabbed the spring, pulled down to remove from cat, and left it hanging.
Reach in with 10mm wrench or 1/4 in drive and 10mm socket and loosen the cat's manifold clamp. It's a typical exhaust band clamp.
Pop over to port side and do same. Mine didn't have a spring here.
Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the lower cat support in place.
Reach up and move the rubber upper cat support joint off of the cat (I was able to do by hand).
A little bit of wiggle up and down and cat will fall out (watch out, I mean FALL).
Transfer clamps, sensor plugs and center support over to bypass. Open up those clamps pretty far.
Use a muffler pipe expander and expand the ends on your new bypass. Make sure you have transferred the clamps first.
Insert new gaskets onto the manifold (both sides), or if you didn't buy new (you should), fish the old ones out if the cat and put on.
(optional) - Coat the OUTSIDES of the new gaskets with Walker 35959 compound. It's really nice if you find yourself pushing these on a few times
Push the PORT side up onto the manifold. You'll notice that you probably can't get both sides to go up at once. This steel has a bit of flex and between temp differences and production tolerances it just doesn't make it that easy. Get your port side on...make sure it goes all the way up. Get the clamp in the correct position (not too high or low) and orient the nut so you can reach it with your tool of choice. Tighten it down.
Now go to the STBD side, you'll see it just doesn't want to straight on, unless you were luckier than me and both went straight in. I used a floor jack and a block of wood, as far forward on the STBD pipe as I could, and slowly jacked up, I saw the pipe go on up, but a visual inspection showed it didn't go all the way. I took a bit of steel and made a wedge that had a wide end that sat on the jack, and a hook to go where the spring loop is on the new pipe, and jacked again. This put the force directly where it was needed and it slid home.
Tighten that clamp after making sure it's in the right place. Haul down on your vice grips, if you have a helper, they can use a screwdriver to help guide the spring hook into the loop. DO watch where your hands will go if the vise grips slip. Don't let him poke you in the eye or hand.
Put your upper support rubber on the new pipe.
Using the jack again, jack up the bypass pipe enough to line up the holes on the center support. Put some loctite on the threads and tighten those up.
Back to the exhaust pipe, put your donut on the bypass (the right way!), I put a bit of 35959 around the outside.
Place the muffler on the bypass and hang it by the body bolt but don't tighten that up yet.
Insert your flange bolts. The springs and spacer go on the bypass pipe side. Loctite and tighten those up.
Loctite the muffler body bolt and tighten.
While it's up, make sure brake is on, neutral, start and check for leaks.
Take it off the supports.
Ryde on.
