Installed new brakes - HOT!

[retread]

Just curiousity on my part.. have you ever adjusted the park brake lever? If you did, did you readjust it to compensate for the new pads?

john

 

[krb1945]

Seems the dust cakes in front of the rubber seals and won't allow the pistons to retract fully when you install new pads. You might take an old tooth brush and clean the caliper good. The clicking you are hearing may be the extra friction of the pad on the rotor. Lift the caliper remove the pads. Spray it good with brake cleaner then use the brush to clean any junk that might be caked on the piston stems in front of the rubber keeping the pistons from retracting. A honda mechanic friend of mine taught me to do this every time pads are changed.

For the wobble I can only guess... check to see if when you spin the tire by hand the thread is running true. If not... see if the bead seated good on the rim.

Hope this helps you... hate to see them go to the shop... seems many disappear for weeks at the shop. Pixie dust, I think. Ken krb1945

 

[SpyderWolf]

Yup----- calling dealer tomorrow----- I'm screaming UNCLE!:gaah:

I am very sorry to hear this as well. I wish you the best in getting it sorted out quickly, and hopefully getting your trip back on.

 

[hondaman]

Is all 3 wheels not turning even after the old ones reinstalled?
It is easy to warp the roters if something is wrong and not cheap to replace roters.Usually roters dont warp just pad buildup.But enough heat and metal will warp.

 

[NancysToy]

For the wobble I can only guess... check to see if when you spin the tire by hand the thread is running true. If not... see if the bead seated good on the rim.

Good advise. Also check to see that the rotors are fully seated on the hubs. With the tires off and the calipers/pads removed, they can slip out of place and fail to seat fully, especially if the studs have a shoulder. This will not only make the pads rub, but will make the tires runout. Debris under the rotor can do the same thing.

 

[woodchuck]

Spyder brakes

While I'm concerned about the constant rubbing----and possible uneven depositing and 'baking' of the brake pad material----- rotors don't actually warp--- that has been well determined to be a myth.

Less techie article:

http://www.examiner.com/x-1060-Orla...9-Theres-no-such-thing-as-warped-brake-rotors

More techie article:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

-------------------------

I'm just concerned about the constant rubbing--- doesn't seem right to me. I used to be able to spin the tires with the old pads--- no problem... even back when they were new.

Rotors will warp when they get HOT. We have a business of installing brakes. Many times new rotores are no true. They have to be cut. As far as getting the rotors to retract farther, DID you take some of the brake fluid out of the brake resirvor? This will allow you to retract the calipers farther into their sleve. When done, top off your brake resirvor with fresh brake fluid. DO NOT use the brake fluid you took out. Make sure you put the cap b ack on when you remove some of the brake fluid. DO not let it open because the air will get to your brake fluid. Good luck.

 

[Firefly]

Seems the dust cakes in front of the rubber seals and won't allow the pistons to retract fully when you install new pads. You might take an old tooth brush and clean the caliper good. The clicking you are hearing may be the extra friction of the pad on the rotor. Lift the caliper remove the pads. Spray it good with brake cleaner then use the brush to clean any junk that might be caked on the piston stems in front of the rubber keeping the pistons from retracting. A honda mechanic friend of mine taught me to do this every time pads are changed.

For the wobble I can only guess... check to see if when you spin the tire by hand the thread is running true. If not... see if the bead seated good on the rim.

Hope this helps you... hate to see them go to the shop... seems many disappear for weeks at the shop. Pixie dust, I think. Ken krb1945

Bingo! Thanks for the ideas--- gee-- cleaning things huh? I shoulda known better!

Tore everything down again--- removed the old pads--- let the pistons come out really far and cleaned everything---- then they retracted much easier.

Re-installed the new EBC pads and the fronts no longer rub like they were. I can spin the tires now and only feel a slight resistance from the pads-- day and night difference from before. From what I've read on some other forums having brakes lightly touch and slow the free-wheel spin a bit is normal.

The rear seems to be rubbing a bit more than the fronts-- but not as bad as before--- plenty of brake dust back there. Cleaned the rotors and going to re-bed again and see how things go.

I did 120 mile trip up to lansing to see Someguy and Qstick7 and NO MORE WOBBLE ! :thumbup: Cruised around 90 for a good while and all is fine again with the front end. Must have been the constant pressure of the pads against the front rotors causing the wobble.

The rotors are still getting hot--- but that's what they do eh? The rear is getting hotter than the fronts for sure.

I'll keep an eye on it --- but pretty sure all is good now.

The pedal does feel a bit soft on the first compression-- but then is normal on the second--- probably need to bleed em......

Thanks everyone for your good input---- learned a lot!

 

[SpyderWolf]

Glad to hear you seem to have it sorted out now.

 

[SethO]

Bingo! Thanks for the ideas--- gee-- cleaning things huh? I shoulda known better!

Tore everything down again--- removed the old pads--- let the pistons come out really far and cleaned everything---- then they retracted much easier.

Re-installed the new EBC pads and the fronts no longer rub like they were. I can spin the tires now and only feel a slight resistance from the pads-- day and night difference from before. From what I've read on some other forums having brakes lightly touch and slow the free-wheel spin a bit is normal.

The rear seems to be rubbing a bit more than the fronts-- but not as bad as before--- plenty of brake dust back there. Cleaned the rotors and going to re-bed again and see how things go.

I did 120 mile trip up to lansing to see Someguy and Qstick7 and NO MORE WOBBLE ! :thumbup: Cruised around 90 for a good while and all is fine again with the front end. Must have been the constant pressure of the pads against the front rotors causing the wobble.

The rotors are still getting hot--- but that's what they do eh? The rear is getting hotter than the fronts for sure.

I'll keep an eye on it --- but pretty sure all is good now.

The pedal does feel a bit soft on the first compression-- but then is normal on the second--- probably need to bleed em......

Thanks everyone for your good input---- learned a lot!

I thought the same thing with the ebc pads, its because the organic compound, I have the gen 3's stilll waiting for ebc's new pads. really watch them and have your back ups if you go on a trip over 500 miles so you do not have a problem like I did. I am sure you keeping track of your miles, it would be cool to have a reference for how long they last for ya.

 

[Firefly]

I thought the same thing with the ebc pads, its because the organic compound, I have the gen 3's stilll waiting for ebc's new pads. really watch them and have your back ups if you go on a trip over 500 miles so you do not have a problem like I did. I am sure you keeping track of your miles, it would be cool to have a reference for how long they last for ya.

Leaving Thursday for Sturgis---- 10 days---- 3,000 miles------ hope they last longer than yers---- will take my old ones along just in case.

 

[SethO]

Leaving Thursday for Sturgis---- 10 days---- 3,000 miles------ hope they last longer than yers---- will take my old ones along just in case.

well I hope they work better, I shot a email to ebc about the stuff I am testing for them, just really not something I thought I would have to change on a trip, run ER 90 buddy.

 

[krb1945]

If you have a soft pedal that might indicate there is air in the system... air compresses, hydraulic fluid doesn't... but it could also mean the pads haven't seated. You can try sitting still and pressing them a few times... not real hard but firmly... four or five times should be sufficient to have them settle in. If that doesn't work you may have to bleed the system.

I'm just glad you don't have to head to the shop for a stay. Have a great week and ride 'em safely. Ken krb1945

 

[spyder30517]

My $0.02 worth

You may want to also check the parking brake cable at the caliper if the rear brake is hot and or dragging.
There are 2 holes that the cable can be mounted to and if its the wrong one it keeps parking brake activated.
I wont say how I know this :gaah: but I had a really pretty gun metal blue rotor soon there after :2thumbs:

It may also need slight adjustment with new pads as well

 

[fastfraser]

Pretty sure you have to hook up to BUDS to bleed the brakes !

 

[krb1945]

Yep... I forgot about that parking brake cable needing to be reset and hooking to the B.U.D.S. to bleed the brakes.

I'd be willing to bet if you reset the PB cable that rear will stop heating up so much and the pedal will feel normal again. Ken krb1945

 

[Firefly]

I'll double check the parking brake cable--- I backed it ALL the way off so it's hitting the metal stop.... but will see if it can go further-- maybe move the plate.

I never use the stupid parking brake--- so I'd just as soon remove all that crap anyway.


You can bleed the brakes without hooking up to buds.... a few have posted success in doing it...... there's some links out here somewhere...

 

[Firefly]

You may want to also check the parking brake cable at the caliper if the rear brake is hot and or dragging.
There are 2 holes that the cable can be mounted to and if its the wrong one it keeps parking brake activated.
I wont say how I know this :gaah: but I had a really pretty gun metal blue rotor soon there after :2thumbs:

It may also need slight adjustment with new pads as well

I don't see 2 holes that it could mount to....:hun:

 

[spyder30517]

I don't see 2 holes that it could mount to....:hun:

My bad - what I meant was the return spring - NOT the cable
Also the parking brake shaft is splined and and this may also need to be adjusted/rotated 1 or 2 splines
Im sure it is in service manual or with instructions that came with new pads(BRP pads that is)
If you need them I can scan and PM them to you

See picture - Hope it makes it through

 

[Firefly]

I pulled the parking brake assembly apart--- made sure it's not engaging AT ALL... and it's not.

I'll eventually just remove the stupid pedal and cable as I never use it.

 

[Raptor]

You NEVER use it? Frankly I would not remove it; it's a piece of safety equipment that is required by law in most states if I'm not mistaken. So even if you don't use it, I wouldn't remove it. I'm just sayin...