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Install time
- Thread starter hognut
- Start date
hognut
New member
Thank you all
Thanks for all the information. I bought the roll bar with the intention of installing it myself, but am having a problem with getting the 20-24 inches clearance and my getting up off the floor
. I am planning on getting the laser alignment at the Redwoods Run so may bring it with me and see if I can get it installed then. Again that you all for the information.
Thanks for all the information. I bought the roll bar with the intention of installing it myself, but am having a problem with getting the 20-24 inches clearance and my getting up off the floor
. I am planning on getting the laser alignment at the Redwoods Run so may bring it with me and see if I can get it installed then. Again that you all for the information.
rollingstone
New member
Pre 2014 models were/are much easier to install than the 2014s. About 1/2 an hour vs about one and a half hours.
PW2013STL
Active member
The hard part was getting the hight to remove the stock bar and install Ron's bar.
What I ending up doing was using my Sears red lift that has a hight of 18 1/2 inches at max lift and lifting the Spyder high enough to put my car ramps under the front tires. I then lowered the lift to it's lowest point. I then stacked two 2x10x18" wood pieces onto the lift so that they rested along the frame and raised the lift to it's Max hight. This gave me 21 1/2" and was just high enough to do it.
If I was to do another one I would pick up a 4x4 piece as that would provide 22" and make it easier to do
What I ending up doing was using my Sears red lift that has a hight of 18 1/2 inches at max lift and lifting the Spyder high enough to put my car ramps under the front tires. I then lowered the lift to it's lowest point. I then stacked two 2x10x18" wood pieces onto the lift so that they rested along the frame and raised the lift to it's Max hight. This gave me 21 1/2" and was just high enough to do it.
If I was to do another one I would pick up a 4x4 piece as that would provide 22" and make it easier to do
LEEB
New member
So, for the parts and labor what was the total costs installed?
robmorg
New member
Same here. My dealer charged me $120 flat, in conjunction with other work, which is just short of 1.5 mh of shop time. That was WELL worth it to me, not to have to figure out how to raise the spyder, crawl under it, and do it myself.
LEEB
New member
Rob, did your dealer supply the bar and ends or did you carry them in the door with you? What was the final total cost?
robmorg
New member
No, I got the bar and links from Ron and took them in to the dealer's shop. They charged me $120 to install them. My Spyder was already there having other work done. According to BahaRon's Vender Link, he sells the bar and the two heim joint links as a kit for $219. WELL worth it and highly recommended, if you haven't gotten one yet. It made quite a difference for me. Diminished the effect of centrifugal force in turns considerably.
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The Governor
New member
1.5 hours, just on automotive ramps
VERY EASY. No need to get 2+ feet off the ground, no need to remove frunk.
Here's the video I used as a reference. I also did the links (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)
VERY EASY. No need to get 2+ feet off the ground, no need to remove frunk.
Here's the video I used as a reference. I also did the links (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)
jimnsusie
New member
Yay, finally got busy and got my ron's bar on today. I am pretty slow so won't mention how long it took me but what the heck being retired means I need something to keep me busy. So glad to have the good instructions that were available and the governors video helped as well. Now for some better weather for a ride. So glad for this forum with all the great advice and ideas. Yesterday I picked up a lift from Harbor Freight and some jack stands. So glad for them as well. As others have mentioned getting the spyder to that height was the nervous part.
Deke
New member
Billet Links Needed?
I had the dealer look up the BRP estimated time for replacing a sway bar, and it was 1/2 hour. I saw it in the book myself.
I'm planning on getting the Bajaron sway bar for my 2015 RT-S Special Series, but would like to understand more about the billet links. I had the Bajaron sway bar put on my 2012 RT last year at Pitbull, and they didn't say anything to me about these links. But when I look on Lamonster's site, he includes these links with the Bajaron sway bar. So, yes to the links, or no?
Deke
I had the dealer look up the BRP estimated time for replacing a sway bar, and it was 1/2 hour. I saw it in the book myself.
I'm planning on getting the Bajaron sway bar for my 2015 RT-S Special Series, but would like to understand more about the billet links. I had the Bajaron sway bar put on my 2012 RT last year at Pitbull, and they didn't say anything to me about these links. But when I look on Lamonster's site, he includes these links with the Bajaron sway bar. So, yes to the links, or no?
Deke
$180.00
stormtrooper
New member
From everything I saw about Ron's bar is if you do his bar its a must to do the links :thumbup: So yes on the links :thumbup:
Dragonrider
New member
I did the bar with the billet links - really, a non issue, if done at the same time as the bar install - might add two minutes.
I used a 1500# Harbor Freight ATV lift to raise my RT, and put a HD jack stand (with pads on the top) under the bottom of each shock, then lowered the RT onto the stands. This angled the RT, making it more steady (on the rear tire w/brake on), and giving me 32" of working room.
Before I lowered it on to the stands, I removed all the required tupperware (including that bolt with the $%$#$$ star washer). Since my jack will raise the RT 34" off the floor, this was much easier on my titanium knee..
The two time consuming issues I had were: (1) the star washer, and (2) setting the two teflon bushings into the channel - the latter took the addition of much of my old Navy language to get them properly placed - in retrospect, filing a very slight bevel to one of the top edges would help a lot.
This was a job that any of us could accomplish, and the cost of the jack and stands at HF are a lot less that the quoted install prices from the dealers.
BTW, I tossed the bar, but kept the links, in case some one needs them (don't take up much space).
I used a 1500# Harbor Freight ATV lift to raise my RT, and put a HD jack stand (with pads on the top) under the bottom of each shock, then lowered the RT onto the stands. This angled the RT, making it more steady (on the rear tire w/brake on), and giving me 32" of working room.
Before I lowered it on to the stands, I removed all the required tupperware (including that bolt with the $%$#$$ star washer). Since my jack will raise the RT 34" off the floor, this was much easier on my titanium knee..
The two time consuming issues I had were: (1) the star washer, and (2) setting the two teflon bushings into the channel - the latter took the addition of much of my old Navy language to get them properly placed - in retrospect, filing a very slight bevel to one of the top edges would help a lot.
This was a job that any of us could accomplish, and the cost of the jack and stands at HF are a lot less that the quoted install prices from the dealers.
BTW, I tossed the bar, but kept the links, in case some one needs them (don't take up much space).
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