Illusive Brake Failure Code

[ulflyer]

I've had the brake failure light a half doz times in the last year and half. Code 1282. Once it involved bleeding the brakes, at my expense, and seemed to work longest. In the last 6 weeks its happened 3 times. Just had new rotors and pads on front, rear done several months or so ago. Each time its been checked out, reset, with no problem found. This morn, the mechanic at Honda Winston-Salem spent about 3 hours attempting to find the issue. An hour of that was on the phone with two or more BRP techs while I sat there and listening to what was to my ears, very detailed and technical discussions. Some of this was while they pored over a giant schematic of the elect components and discussed various possibilities. They couldn't come up with any specific thing that might be wrong that the mechanic hadn't already checked. Afterwards, he and his trainee went through an elaborate (to me anyway) procedure reinitializing (not sure this is right term) the total computer system. Involved, among other things, the rear wheel jacked up and motor run up thru all the gears and then down and into reverse.

I've always just set park and shut it off in gear, holding brake to restart. Was told to put it in neutral from now on, just in case this created some weird electronic gremlin. Not exactly his words but something to that effect. Whatever it is, it was far to subtle for ole BUD.

BRP picked up the bill for this, much to my satisfaction.

And I must say Kudo's to Brad at Honda Winston-Salem for his persistance.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I hope they chased away the gremlins for good

 

[ulflyer]

Dang Gremlin got me again today; Brake Failure Light back on!

Forgot to put it in neutral while out riding today and when I restarted it, the light popped up again (c1282). I'd forgotton the neutral a time or two since last tuesday so today was not the first.

Could it be the gremlin lives somewhere in the brake switch? And why does the parking brake light remain on, even tho it releases as it should? Might this be connected?

I'm challenged just to screw in a light blub so this is out of my league, but if any of you have any ideas I'd apprec it and can take them with me when I go back to the dealer.

 

[NancysToy]

Forgot to put it in neutral while out riding today and when I restarted it, the light popped up again (c1282). I'd forgotton the neutral a time or two since last tuesday so today was not the first.

Could it be the gremlin lives somewhere in the brake switch? And why does the parking brake light remain on, even tho it releases as it should? Might this be connected?

I'm challenged just to screw in a light blub so this is out of my league, but if any of you have any ideas I'd apprec it and can take them with me when I go back to the dealer.

The problem could easily reside in the brake switch, the connection, or possibly the parking brake switch (I'mn not sure about how that is programmed to interact). If the Spyder reads that the brakes are pressed, via the parking brake switch, but does not read any brake pressure, it assumes brake failure has occurred. That's why riding the brake pedal can trigger limp mode. If your pedal doesn't return all the way, or the switch is faulty or sticks, the Spyder sees the brake light but no brake pressure, and defaults to a brake failure warning. The first step for the dealer would be to check the brake pressure via BUDS. If that is OK, you probably have a problem with the switch or pedal...or with your foot touching the pedal while riding.

 

[ulflyer]

Scotty, thanks for feedback. Will hit the dealer again one day this week to see what they can come up with. Somehow, I think its either the brake switch or something similar that causes an errant signal now and then. I've never been a brake "rider" so thats not a problem. If they can't come up with something positive, maybe I can convince them to change out the brake switch anyway.

When it was in the shop last week and hooked to BUDS they had me sit on it to simulate braking and they also checked it with maximum pressure; I guess all this was to determine proper function of the switch. Unfortunately, they could never duplicate the brake failure error light.

 

[Ga Blue Knight]

Try to explain to them that replacing the brake switch may be less expensive then have to deal with this issue for the next few months.

 

[ulflyer]

Try to explain to them that replacing the brake switch may be less expensive then have to deal with this issue for the next few months.

Teriffic idea....will do.

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty, thanks for feedback. Will hit the dealer again one day this week to see what they can come up with. Somehow, I think its either the brake switch or something similar that causes an errant signal now and then. I've never been a brake "rider" so thats not a problem. If they can't come up with something positive, maybe I can convince them to change out the brake switch anyway.

When it was in the shop last week and hooked to BUDS they had me sit on it to simulate braking and they also checked it with maximum pressure; I guess all this was to determine proper function of the switch. Unfortunately, they could never duplicate the brake failure error light.

A number of owners have had success with shaving a tiny bit of rubber off the pedal return bumper, so the pedal comes back a tiny bit farther.

 

[ulflyer]

Scotty; will look at bumper later today. Sounds like something I should do. Can't hurt to try. I've had it up on jacks and stared at the undersides of the pedal mechanism while I worked it back and forth. It looked clean, no grime, so I spray lubed the arm joints.

 

[billybovine]

Here's a question pertinent to the issue at hand, and one I really don't know the answer to
(pretending for the moment there are really many I do know the answer to).

Does the system monitor the Brake Light Switch (the micro switch that turns on the light) or the the other low brake fluid pressure switch or both.

The reason I ask is that I don't see how the brake lights would be monitored by the Nanny using the microswitch.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NEVER MIND I ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION WITH A SECOND LOOK AT THE SCHEMATIC.
THE MICROSWITCH IS TIED TO THE CAN-BUS with the designation BLS

On the 2013 wiring diagram there is also a hard connection to the ECM. I would expect similar in other years.

 

[ulflyer]

Scotty; will look at bumper later today. Sounds like something I should do. Can't hurt to try. I've had it up on jacks and stared at the undersides of the pedal mechanism while I worked it back and forth. It looked clean, no grime, so I spray lubed the arm joints.

I trimmed the bumper down a bit and also noticed that the center pushpin that holds the Spiderpop catalytic shield had slipped out about a 1/4 inch and the rear arm of the brake mechanism had worn the shielding off and scored the plastic itself. Even tho I couldn't duplicate any rubbing its obvious that it had and may possibly be the cause of the brake failure light. I cut a small section of the shield off to prevent it touching and put some RTV on the push pin to hold it more secure. Had the code cleared today and time will tell if that was my trouble all along. For those of you with the shield it might be worth your time checking it out.

 

[ulflyer]

Brake Failure light not due to rubbing on Spyder Pop Shield!!

Thought I had brake failure thing figured out; shop cleared the code last friday and saturday it popped up again. Will let the shop tackle the thing again when I get around to it.

A lady from BRP called last week and left a voice msg re the brakes and a number to call back but when I called it was one of those "if you know ur parties nr, etc, " so I hung up. At least they're trying and I apprec that.

 

[Cleg]

i've had the elusive Brake Failure light issue too and have been concerned. However, reading all these posts, I am almost glad I am not alone. Many good suggestions here and I will try some...:bowdown: and maybe by simply leaving it in N will work. We shall see.

 

[ulflyer]

i've had the elusive Brake Failure light issue too and have been concerned. However, reading all these posts, I am almost glad I am not alone. Many good suggestions here and I will try some...:bowdown: and maybe by simply leaving it in N will work. We shall see.

Cleg: Just got home from another shop visit and this time the Mech talked to someone at BRP that he has a lot of respect for and was told to syncronize the clearing of the "code" ( I've forgot exactly what it was called) with the VCC? (the computer thing that brake hoses run thru) and if that don't work they're authorized to replace the VCC (which the Mech says is a major job and he's never done one in the six years he's been working on Can Am's).

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this solved the problem, and again give kudos to Brad (mech) and Eric (shop mngr) for sticking with me and handling everything promptly while I wait. I understand now how important it is to have established good rapport with the shop personnel.

 

[willie]

how to reset parking brake light

i would like to know how to reset parking brake light that remains on. have been going to dealer to get it checked out and they cannot find any thing wrong.

 

[willie]

how to reset parking brake light

does any one know how to reset the parking brake light

 

[NancysToy]

i would like to know how to reset parking brake light that remains on. have been going to dealer to get it checked out and they cannot find any thing wrong.

That is one sad dealer! There are several possible causes, including a bad switch, maladjustment, or the parking brake cable slipped off the drum. The dealer needs to fix it, not just scratch his head. Have him contact BRP dealer tech support for advice.

 

[skeetshooter]

Brake light

My 2008 did the same thing had it reset 2 times but it came back.I had put new brakes on about 2 months before so i thought this can't be it.Well i had a new set of pads and thought what the hell.Fronts look new but when i took the backs off a small rock fell out.The pad the rock was behind was just about to the metal.I put new pads on started up spyder pushed brake hard as i could light stayed on.Then i cut spyder off and started it back up light was gone never had any more trouble.Some times the simple things are the hardest to find.:yes:

 

[NancysToy]

My 2008 did the same thing had it reset 2 times but it came back.I had put new brakes on about 2 months before so i thought this can't be it.Well i had a new set of pads and thought what the hell.Fronts look new but when i took the backs off a small rock fell out.The pad the rock was behind was just about to the metal.I put new pads on started up spyder pushed brake hard as i could light stayed on.Then i cut spyder off and started it back up light was gone never had any more trouble.Some times the simple things are the hardest to find.:yes:

Good point. Odd or excessive brake wear or brake problems, or even slightly low brake fluid can cause brake failure warnings, although some of them do not trigger the brake icon.