I have a 2013 RT with 24,000 miles. It has always had problems with the battery holding a charge, unless it gets ridden at least once a week. Not the current problem (at least I dont think so). We are on vacation, with our bykes, so it's getting plenty of ryding time. This morning, I went to start it, and as I was pushing the start button, the charger cord to my Sena, hit the passenger footrest. After a loud electrical squeal in my ear, the byke will not start. The start screen will not come up, but pushing the mode button, it will scroll through all the rest of the screens. No codes are showing. We also tried jumping, but without the start screen, cant start it. Any ideas?
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I think I "broke" it
- Thread starter EBNewsome
- Start date
Wmoater
Active member
If your charger positive end hit metal it most definitely would have blown the fuse. I am guessing it is off the 40 amp accessory fuse. But I would think there would only be a 3 amp inline fuse before that. It has to be a fuse in my opinion. I know with all my heated helmets on the sleds they have a 3 amp inline and if the radio end touches metal it will blow that fuse. (Not the entire circuit though)
stevencovert
Member
I'm trying to understand how the Sena cable shorted - where were the ends? One in a USB outlet (somewhere) and the other end hit ground? I was trying to figure out how you got a squealing on the Sena 
I'd try pulling off the battery cables & clean. This also will assert everything gets reset.
Regardless, I personally don't think there are any charging issues with the 998 or the 1330 systems (I have 4 Spyders). Even sitting for 2-3 months in Winter (in a garage to clarify) they always started right up. Never used a battery tender. Maybe you have a parasitic drain - something attached directly to the battery or through an always hot circuit? I have a cigarette lighter socket on my RT and use a plug in dual 2.4A USB adapter. As far as the battery, if it over 4-5 years old I'd recommend replacing it. I had one go down hill quickly in 2-3 weeks.
Clean off the battery cable with a brass brush or fine sand paper to shine it up, and reconnect very tight, then spray a bit of WD40 on terminals to help seal. Verify 14+ volts charging when running, about 12.3+ when off. If you have a cheap DVM that measures current, disconnect the battery ground terminal and put the meter in series. See if there is any current draw when bike is off and key out. This is a bit advanced but if there a lot of accessories maybe something is connected to power all the time when it should be on a switched circuit?? By the way I get batteries at Batteries Plus - they have 2 in stock that fit.
I know this question is out there, but on the 2013 ST's there is a known issue where the brake light gets stuck on, because the switch is right next to the cat and gets hot. Ever see that? Not sure if the frame is the same as the RT. Happened on my ST. Just tossing it out there
Steve
I'd try pulling off the battery cables & clean. This also will assert everything gets reset.
Regardless, I personally don't think there are any charging issues with the 998 or the 1330 systems (I have 4 Spyders). Even sitting for 2-3 months in Winter (in a garage to clarify) they always started right up. Never used a battery tender. Maybe you have a parasitic drain - something attached directly to the battery or through an always hot circuit? I have a cigarette lighter socket on my RT and use a plug in dual 2.4A USB adapter. As far as the battery, if it over 4-5 years old I'd recommend replacing it. I had one go down hill quickly in 2-3 weeks.
Clean off the battery cable with a brass brush or fine sand paper to shine it up, and reconnect very tight, then spray a bit of WD40 on terminals to help seal. Verify 14+ volts charging when running, about 12.3+ when off. If you have a cheap DVM that measures current, disconnect the battery ground terminal and put the meter in series. See if there is any current draw when bike is off and key out. This is a bit advanced but if there a lot of accessories maybe something is connected to power all the time when it should be on a switched circuit?? By the way I get batteries at Batteries Plus - they have 2 in stock that fit.
I know this question is out there, but on the 2013 ST's there is a known issue where the brake light gets stuck on, because the switch is right next to the cat and gets hot. Ever see that? Not sure if the frame is the same as the RT. Happened on my ST. Just tossing it out there
Steve
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