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I had a run in with BRP’s infamous Loctite x2

I have seen a couple of posts about fasteners with BRP’s Loctite being really tough to deal with but had not had any experiences of my own till today when I was attempting to install floorboards on my F3 S.

Removing the rubber foot peg inserts requires removal of 2 12mm bolts on each side. Easy…..right?

Not so fast - these bolts extremely hard to get moving. I was very conscious of not stripping the heads, using the correct size socket and a short ratchet. I got them moving a couple of turns and then the heads snapped off. This happened on both bolts on the left peg.

What’s up with using gobs of strong Loctite and cheap fasteners. It’s a sure fire recipe for a disaster. What should have been a simple half hour job turned into a two hour drama.

Perhaps the Gorilla glue and Loctite got into the wrong packaging…. ��
 

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Any markings on the top (head) of that bolt to tell what grade it is???? Seems a grade 5 or the metric equivalent of 8.8 should have been used.
Another question----- could you see the color of the locking agent??? BRP loves the yellow stuff.

Lew L
 
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Peter, a 12mm, 8.8 bolt can be torqued to 90 ft/lbs. I think it may have been over torqued at the factory, weakening it.
 
You can heat the head of the bolts that have the yellow locktite with a little soldering mapp gas torch, it will soften the locktite and turn right out.
 
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I did the same yesterday - mounted the F3 Ultimate floorboards on my 2021 F3 Limited. One side was tight. The other side was VERY VERY tight with plenty of the yellow stuff. I was quite concerned about possibly breaking the bolt. It would make a creaking sound when I did pull on the wrench very hard. Fortunately, they didn't break ... BIG sigh of relief! I put on some blue stuff when replacing. It doesn't seem to grip excessively tight.
 
Sounds like BRP does screws like they do everything else: overly cautious to the point of it being bad for the product!
 
I have seen a couple of posts about fasteners with BRP’s Loctite being really tough to deal with but had not had any experiences of my own till today when I was attempting to install floorboards on my F3 S.

Removing the rubber foot peg inserts requires removal of 2 12mm bolts on each side. Easy…..right?

Not so fast - these bolts extremely hard to get moving. I was very conscious of not stripping the heads, using the correct size socket and a short ratchet. I got them moving a couple of turns and then the heads snapped off. This happened on both bolts on the left peg.

What’s up with using gobs of strong Loctite and cheap fasteners. It’s a sure fire recipe for a disaster. What should have been a simple half hour job turned into a two hour drama.

Perhaps the Gorilla glue and Loctite got into the wrong packaging…. ��

Sorry to hear that, Peter. It certainly sounds like a “Random” amount of thread locker is applied at assembly.
Just out of interest, how did you remove the bolt stubs from the frame?

Pete
 
I got a bit lucky the stubs were in the peg which came loose when the second bolt snapped

I will use Easy Out if I ever need the pegs again but I think the Ultimate floorboards are a winner for me.
 
Sorry to hear that, Peter. It certainly sounds like a “Random” amount of thread locker is applied at assembly.
......

I don't think it's "Random" at all, Pete - I reckon it's quite deliberately & with forethought applied in BLOODY EXCESSIVE quantities on just about everything with threads, and in those few places where it doesn't qualify as being quite that much, it still qualifies as being EXCESSIVE!! :mad: :cus: :banghead:

If they only applied 'the necessary' amount of their favourite Locktite instead of the bloody excessive amount they use atm, BRP could probably sell us these Spyders at a 20% cheaper price AND STILL make 10% more profit! :gaah:


:rolleyes:
 
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I don't think it's "Random" at all, Pete - I reckon it's quite deliberately & with forethought applied in BLOODY EXCESSIVE quantities on just about everything with threads, and in those few places where it doesn't qualify as being quite that much, it still qualifies as being EXCESSIVE!! :mad: :cus: :banghead:

If they only applied 'the necessary' amount of their favourite Locktite instead of the bloody excessive amount they use atm, BRP could probably sell us these Spyders at a 20% cheaper price AND STILL make 10% more profit! :gaah:
:rolleyes:

Hahaha…..fair point, Peter……..I only used the word “random” as it is often the case that the boards on one side unbolt “fairly” easily, while the other side shears the bolt head off. :shocked:

Pete
 
Are you sure those bolts had a 12mm diameter threaded portion or you had to use a 12mm wrench on the bolt heads.

A 12mm bolt is a rather large bolt
 
BRP uses good locktite, and it is a PITA; however, I have found that when you remove a bolt it heats up because of the locktite used. If you stop part way through the bolt removal after the bolt has heated up, then try to continue, you are more apt to break the bolt. I found that once you get the bolt moving, do not stop. If you stop during the removal, leave the bolt alone for a while, let it cool down, then start again.

New bolts are the same, installing the BRP bolts that come with the locktite applied do the same but in reverse.

Just my experience.
 
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