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Hyperflash question

Red RT-S

New member
When I first hooked my trailer to my 1027 RT S I experienced hyperflash when using the turn signal. I followed Lamont's video to stop this, and all went well. When I disconnected the trailer, however, the turn signals started to hyperflash again. I went through Lamont's procedure again and the hyperflash stopped when the trailer was not connected, but now when trailer is hooked up the hyperflash is back. Am I doing something wrong or is it necessary to go through this procedure each time the trailer is connected and disconnected?
 
When I first hooked my trailer to my 1027 RT S I experienced hyperflash when using the turn signal. I followed Lamont's video to stop this, and all went well. When I disconnected the trailer, however, the turn signals started to hyperflash again. I went through Lamont's procedure again and the hyperflash stopped when the trailer was not connected, but now when trailer is hooked up the hyperflash is back. Am I doing something wrong or is it necessary to go through this procedure each time the trailer is connected and disconnected?

What trailer?
 
The wiring in your Spyder for the trailer is incorrect. Specifically is not isolated. An isolator module needs to be installed. How was your Spyder wired for the trailer? Kit? Shade tree mechanic wiring job?
 
When I first hooked my trailer to my 1027 RT S I experienced hyperflash when using the turn signal. I followed Lamont's video to stop this, and all went well. When I disconnected the trailer, however, the turn signals started to hyperflash again. I went through Lamont's procedure again and the hyperflash stopped when the trailer was not connected, but now when trailer is hooked up the hyperflash is back. Am I doing something wrong or is it necessary to go through this procedure each time the trailer is connected and disconnected?

What is a 1027 RTS? Who installed the wiring module and what brand on your RT?
 
This is what pops up in his profile:

Current Transportation (Bikes Cars Rides):Toyota Tacoma, Toyota Prius V, Spyder RT-S-SE5, Suzuki V-Strom 650, Ski-Doo Renegade AdrenalineIt doesn't show a year, but it lists an SE-5 transmission. Pre-2014 perhaps? :dontknow:
 
I will assume by Pierre that is Spyderaccessoires http://www.canamspyderaccessories.com/rt-trailer-hitch-harness-fits-all-models-and-all-years/ If that is correct? Then by the picture the module he uses is a converter only and not an isolator. Send it back and get your money back.

DSC_3791__66370.1480871880.1280.1280.JPG
 
1027

That is just clumsy typing. It is a 2017 RT-S. The wiring module was installed by my dealer (Walt's Sales and Service in Derby, VT) It only plugs in one way. It came from Spyder Accessories (Pierre Poloquin) BillyBovine has said that this this only has a converter, not an isolator, so maybe that is the problem.
What is a 1027 RTS? Who installed the wiring module and what brand on your RT?
 
That is just clumsy typing. It is a 2017 RT-S. The wiring module was installed by my dealer (Walt's Sales and Service in Derby, VT) It only plugs in one way. It came from Spyder Accessories (Pierre Poloquin) BillyBovine has said that this this only has a converter, not an isolator, so maybe that is the problem.

Sent you a PM give me a call.
 
If this helps, TricLED told me you only need to hold the turn signal button in for 30 seconds and don't need to do the ignition key turning. Worked on my 2014 RT-L. Offered FWIW.
 
Thanks it would make sense as the dash blinks sometime between 20-30 seconds which must be the reset/set of the blinkers
 
Thanks for the offer, but at this point I think I will just live with it and go through the drill each time I use the trailer, which will only be a couple times each year.
No. You do not want to do that.

The turn signals are fed directly from the cluster and there is no fuse between the turn signal lights and the cluster. If for any reason you happen to have a short in the trailer light wiring you may, emphasis on may since no one here knows for sure, blow some circuitry in the cluster. Blow a cluster and you're looking at something on the order of an $800 repair bill.

Play it safe and replace the converter with an isolator. The isolater is just that. It isolates the trailer wiring from the bike wiring. A short in the trailer wiring won't affect the bike wiring.
 
Hyperflash

Sorry, I misspoke. With the engine running, press and hold the emergency flasher button for at least 30 seconds. That's what TricLED staff was doing at SpyderFest.

Thanks for this tip. I tried it with just the ignition on, engine not running, and it seems to work.
 
Thanks for this tip. I tried it with just the ignition on, engine not running, and it seems to work.

I was told to have the engine running because the battery voltage may not be high enough to reset the flash. My resets didn't work until I had the engine running. YMMV.
 
I will assume by Pierre that is Spyderaccessoires http://www.canamspyderaccessories.com/rt-trailer-hitch-harness-fits-all-models-and-all-years/ If that is correct? Then by the picture the module he uses is a converter only and not an isolator. Send it back and get your money back.

The converter only combines the 5 wires in normal tail-light wiring circuit into the 4 used on the trailer connector. It does nothing to isolate the trailer wiring from the bike's wiring.
 
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