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Hydraulic housing failure clutch
- Thread starter oneway
- Start date
opcorn:
It's called a hydraulic housing assembly. A non repairable part. SE6 the inner workings that has to do with paddle shifting. I have never heard of one going bad as I have had 4 spyders with paddle shift no problems. I am told it is not holding pressure
.
CloverHillCrawler
Active member
Part # 22 in this diagram..
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I'm skeptical ....opcorn: .....goodluck .....I'd get a second opinion & maybe a third .....Mike :thumbup:
opcorn: .....goodluck .....I'd get a second opinion & maybe a third .....Mike :thumbup:
CloverHillCrawler
Active member
Yea it seems like you would have to have very acidic oil for this to go bad but you would think it would take out other parts before the housing leaked .. maybe a bad cast?
I would be hoping for a bad gasket, o ring or seal within the assembly? But you wouldn't know until you take it apart.
People have had issues with bad casts on other engine parts.
I would be hoping for a bad gasket, o ring or seal within the assembly? But you wouldn't know until you take it apart.
People have had issues with bad casts on other engine parts.
Last edited:
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Well, I’m kinda skeptical, too, because “not holding pressure” is too general of a term. Besides, all of those internal parts are replaceable individually….including seals…without having to give you the whole unit. It could simply be a 200 dollar solenoid valve, or 3 dollar seal. I see that you had 28000 miles on it 4 years ago, 60,000 now. I trust that the HCM filter has been changed as required by the schedule? That would sure affect pressure. This is one of those things that calls for a second opinion if you’re so inclined. Your decision. Good luck.
BertRemington
New member
I'm having difficulty understanding this:
The SE6 clutch is ENGAGED with HCM oil pressure. Per the Service Manual
Are you saying after shifting into 1st, the Spyder does not move forward as you increase throttle? Or are you saying the Spyder does not shift easily from N to 1st?
Next question: with the engine off after releasing the parking brake, can you push your Spyder forward and backward?
Next question: what was the measured HCM line pressure while the engine was running and in 1st gear (I assume the dealer used BUDS)?
If the dealer didn't provide you this pressure information, you need to measure it. Below screw #4 (tightening sequence) of the HCM filter is a standard 3-wire pressure transducer that measures clutch engagement pressure (0 - 174 psi). One wire (VT/BU) is Ground, one wire (VT/GN) is Vo bias voltage and one wire (YE/WH) is Vs sensor voltage. Turn the ignition on and carefully using needle-type connector back probes, verify the function of each wire. Vo is probably 5V although it might be 12V and Vs will be 0.5V although if Vo is 12V it will be 5V.
Once you have verified the wire functions, connect one probe to Ground and the other to Vs. Start the engine. Vs should increase albeit not by much. It may be a 200psi transducer although more likely 300psi. For a 5V Vo 200psi transducer, the clutch pressure is ((Vs - 0.5V) / 0.02) psi. 5V Vo 300psi transducer is ((Vs - 0.5V) / 0.03) psi.
Shift into 1st and increase the throttle to 1500rpm. You should be seeing Vs at least 2V probably higher.
If Vs reaches 2V or more, then your HCM probably isn't the problem. Your problem is more likely the holding nut for the clutch assembly has loosened and backed out a turn or two. Expensive labor for disassembly is still required but expensive parts shouldn't be needed. Do a search for this problem -- it has occurred before.
If Vs doesn't reach 2V then yeah I think you're going to need some expensive parts.
The SE6 clutch is ENGAGED with HCM oil pressure. Per the Service Manual
Are you saying after shifting into 1st, the Spyder does not move forward as you increase throttle? Or are you saying the Spyder does not shift easily from N to 1st?
Next question: with the engine off after releasing the parking brake, can you push your Spyder forward and backward?
Next question: what was the measured HCM line pressure while the engine was running and in 1st gear (I assume the dealer used BUDS)?
If the dealer didn't provide you this pressure information, you need to measure it. Below screw #4 (tightening sequence) of the HCM filter is a standard 3-wire pressure transducer that measures clutch engagement pressure (0 - 174 psi). One wire (VT/BU) is Ground, one wire (VT/GN) is Vo bias voltage and one wire (YE/WH) is Vs sensor voltage. Turn the ignition on and carefully using needle-type connector back probes, verify the function of each wire. Vo is probably 5V although it might be 12V and Vs will be 0.5V although if Vo is 12V it will be 5V.
Once you have verified the wire functions, connect one probe to Ground and the other to Vs. Start the engine. Vs should increase albeit not by much. It may be a 200psi transducer although more likely 300psi. For a 5V Vo 200psi transducer, the clutch pressure is ((Vs - 0.5V) / 0.02) psi. 5V Vo 300psi transducer is ((Vs - 0.5V) / 0.03) psi.
Shift into 1st and increase the throttle to 1500rpm. You should be seeing Vs at least 2V probably higher.
If Vs reaches 2V or more, then your HCM probably isn't the problem. Your problem is more likely the holding nut for the clutch assembly has loosened and backed out a turn or two. Expensive labor for disassembly is still required but expensive parts shouldn't be needed. Do a search for this problem -- it has occurred before.
If Vs doesn't reach 2V then yeah I think you're going to need some expensive parts.
Bfromla
Well-known member
Had similar issue on SE5, hopefully is just seals & gaskets. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?117964-SE-tranny-heads-up
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