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How to remove right side panel on ST

Raprider

New member
With a whopping 192 miles on, I seem to have a small coolant leak and want to remove the right side panel to see where it might be coming from...
There are 2 torx screws towards the front of the panel hear the a-arm and 1 torx screw on the back edge of the panel by the floorboard.
I removed the screws but couldn't get the panel off. What else is needed to remove this panel?

BTW...I did call the dealer this a.m. and he mentioned possibly needing to replace the oetiker clamp(s) with worm screw clamps, as others have posted elsewhere.
But getting over there when it's 35 or below might be tough :sour:
 
One of the things I do is find a microphisch that shows the parts in an exploded view. Then I can see more detail about what I’ll need to do. There are the two screws in front plus one under the rear. (Above your toe) I remember one or two at the bottom that are also holding the bottom panels.

You might find find a lot of helpful videos on youtube.

Here is is a link to cheap cycle parts.com that you can see all the parts.
https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/cam/515ddaa4f870021c2470a4b7/body-and-accessories

also canammanuals.com might help
 
Thanks for the tips! AND...Congrats on the new ryde!

I was just looking on CheapCycleParts, but will also look at Canammanuals...and will bookmark both!
 
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there is two screws on the front and 1 on the back, then you have to pull it out and lift up because there is a tab the sets into the bottom black plastic piece.

I have a thread about a coolant leak, where are you seeing yours? I found that there is one worm style clamp and coming on top and was loose which was causing the leak.

With a whopping 192 miles on, I seem to have a small coolant leak and want to remove the right side panel to see where it might be coming from...
There are 2 torx screws towards the front of the panel hear the a-arm and 1 torx screw on the back edge of the panel by the floorboard.
I removed the screws but couldn't get the panel off. What else is needed to remove this panel?

BTW...I did call the dealer this a.m. and he mentioned possibly needing to replace the oetiker clamp(s) with worm screw clamps, as others have posted elsewhere.
But getting over there when it's 35 or below might be tough :sour:
 
Be prepared for other coolant leaks. Mine started with the clamp down low one year, then a following year it was clamps up by the throttle bodies that required airbox removal.
 
Coolant leak found

Pulled the right side panel (thanks mavrik!) and found leakage from this clamp...it didn't "feel" loose, but it did tighten about 3/4 turn. Hopefully solves this problem.
There must be some additional fluid sitting on the bottom rocker panel and deflector panel since there still seems to be a drip.
Guess I'll be pulling those later :banghead:


CoolantLeak1.jpgCoolantLeak2.jpg
 
Very same place I found my secondary leak. When you pull the bottom panel, be sure to check the oetiker clamp on the hose going to the bottom of the radiator - that is where my primary leak was from. Replaced it with a screw clamp.
 
That is where my leak was....spray it down with brake cleaner and let air dry..i bet you will be all set

Pulled the right side panel (thanks mavrik!) and found leakage from this clamp...it didn't "feel" loose, but it did tighten about 3/4 turn. Hopefully solves this problem.
There must be some additional fluid sitting on the bottom rocker panel and deflector panel since there still seems to be a drip.
Guess I'll be pulling those later :banghead:


View attachment 157705View attachment 157706
 
brake cleaner with dissolve then evaporate so there is no residual left over...then you can see if you have any leak reappear. spray brake cleaner on the area you want, don't get on painted panels.
 
Coolant leaks galore

I just went through a total coolant clamp replacement for my 2015 STL due to multiple hose clamp leaks, right side. Dealer replaced 5 or so clamps, (including near the air box) with screw type, and said this is a common problem. Bad news was that BRP would NOT cover this under warranty. On my dime, (actually $400). Buyer beware.
 
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