HOW TO MAKE THE TRUNK STAY OPEN

[boulderspyder]

I keep thinking that my spyder is missing something when i turn the key to pop the trunk. It doesn't POP! It's really annoying. I hate having to put a bag of groceries on the ground to open it.

Does any know if this is standard and if there is anything out there to fix this?

 

[SpyderByter]

Search this forum, lots of good fixes. The standard is a #155 spring from your local hardware store.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8947&highlight=trunk+spring

 

[dltang]

I keep thinking that my spyder is missing something when i turn the key to pop the trunk. It doesn't POP! It's really annoying. I hate having to put a bag of groceries on the ground to open it.

Does any know if this is standard and if there is anything out there to fix this?

welcome, and up, use the spring, can set you up for under a buck.

 

[RLS]

Finally found the #155 spring at the local ACE hardware, for a total cost of 0.78. Now Spyder Ryder810 is happy.

 

[dltang]

Finally found the #155 spring at the local ACE hardware, for a total cost of 0.78. Now Spyder Ryder810 is happy.

You're a good husband Bob :2thumbs:

 

[fastfraser]

One of the more cheap and easy mods you can do yourself.

 

[boulderspyder]

Thanks guys

I just found a trunk popper specifically for a spyder on ebay that has a mount built into the spring. which sounds easier than jerry-rigging a spring on there myself

 

[bone crusher]

I just found a trunk popper specifically for a spyder on ebay that has a mount built into the spring. which sounds easier than jerry-rigging a spring on there myself

Why spend any money when it'll cost you $1.00 and it's easy and foolproof! Simple thing to do...no need to buy anything special...

 

[Trickie Dick]

I just found a trunk popper specifically for a spyder on ebay that has a mount built into the spring. which sounds easier than jerry-rigging a spring on there myself

Suit yourself but it took me all of 1 minute to put a dab of silicone on the base of the spring from ACE, slide it over the catch and close the trunk. Let is sit overnight and it's worked like a charm since. Less than a buck.hyea:
Plus I'll bet the company on Ebay got their idea from this forum.:dontknow:

 

[trikester]

Yeah, I used the silicone also (actually it was a marine sealant but similar). No bending or tweaking of the spring.

Now I always expect the lid to pop every time I operate the key that way and it hasn't disappointed me yet, over many months. :thumbup:

 

[bone crusher]

Didn't need silicone...just bent the end of the spring and put between two nuts...holds tight...no problems...it's really a perfect fit...

I'm sure the person on ebay got the idea from here...we're the only ones out there doing this kinda thing...

 

[Some Guy]

e-bay and W.C. Fields go hand-in-hand..."There's a sucker born every minute".

 

[Blinc]

With mine, I found simply loosening the nuts and moving the catch a little bit in a different location solved my release problem. I think it just moves over time, however, I did get the spring and installed it as it does pop the trunk out further than the general catch and that makes it easier to open with gloves on.

 

[John in PA]

My hardware store doesn't use the same numbering system. What's the I.D., O.D., and length of the spring? Muchas Gracias!!

 

[trikester]

5/8" ID, 3/4" OD (wire is 1/16" dia.) x 2-1/4" L

The length of my spring is now 2-1/8" after being compressed.

I beg to differ with BoneCrusher, the silicon is easier than bending the spring and messing with the nuts. Just squirt some around the nuts, place the spring on the silicone and close the lid. Leave it overnight. Done, finito! You don't even need a wrench.

If you ever need to loosen the nuts for any reason later, the spring can be pulled off by hand and the silicone is easy to strip away.

 

[bone crusher]

5/8" ID, 3/4" OD (wire is 1/16" dia.) x 2-1/4" L

The length of my spring is now 2-1/8" after being compressed.

I beg to differ with BoneCrusher, the silicon is easier than bending the spring and messing with the nuts. Just squirt some around the nuts, place the spring on the silicone and close the lid. Leave it overnight. Done, finito! You don't even need a wrench.

If you ever need to loosen the nuts for any reason later, the spring can be pulled off by hand and the silicone is easy to strip away.

As long as it stays put, it's all good...

 

[SpyderByter]

5/8" ID, 3/4" OD (wire is 1/16" dia.) x 2-1/4" L

The length of my spring is now 2-1/8" after being compressed.

I beg to differ with BoneCrusher, the silicon is easier than bending the spring and messing with the nuts. Just squirt some around the nuts, place the spring on the silicone and close the lid. Leave it overnight. Done, finito! You don't even need a wrench.

If you ever need to loosen the nuts for any reason later, the spring can be pulled off by hand and the silicone is easy to strip away.

As an alternative, instead of silicone I slid a piece of rubber over the nuts, and twisted the spring on that. But silicone is just as easy. If the rubber stops holding, I will go with the silicone.

 

[Rando]

just drop it in!

This mod works great and only cost me 50 cents! It should have been OEM! It fits perfectly down INSIDE so it's not visible like the other spring mods.
Attached Thumbnails

 

[John in PA]

Ahh, a detail person!! Much appreciated, thanks a million!!!! :clap: :clap: :2thumbs:

5/8" ID, 3/4" OD (wire is 1/16" dia.) x 2-1/4" L

The length of my spring is now 2-1/8" after being compressed.

I beg to differ with BoneCrusher, the silicon is easier than bending the spring and messing with the nuts. Just squirt some around the nuts, place the spring on the silicone and close the lid. Leave it overnight. Done, finito! You don't even need a wrench.

If you ever need to loosen the nuts for any reason later, the spring can be pulled off by hand and the silicone is easy to strip away.

 

[Zerocool]

I was about to go hunt down Spring #155, but thought I'd try to adjust the trunk first.

Here's what worked for me:

1. Open trunk.
2. Loosened the nut, closest to the plastic hood, on the male end. (located on the inside of the hood)
3. Tightened the nut, furthest from the plastic hood, a 1/4 turn. Note, this nut is physically attached to the male end (post).
4. Closed trunk and tested opening w/key.
5. Repeated steps 3 & 4 until the latch popped the trunk.
6. Tighten the nut closest to the plastic hood to hold the set position in place.

For me, I needed to only tighten the post about 1/2 a turn. The trunk lid now pops open at the turn of the key.

Might work for others.