ArmyJoe
New member
Read the supplied instructions. If there are any differences, the supplied instructions take priority.
Feed a small slotted screwdriver through the hole in the top of the body and behind the instrument panel. Push down and tilt the panel forward.
Grab it with the tips of your fingers so it doesn't fall back into place. Do the same thing on the other side of the instrument panel. It should now come free and you can tilt it all the way out. Disconnect it from the rear and place it to the side.
Locate the turn signal wires (see red arrows). Disconnect the connectors and unwind the wires from the hooks.
Use a 5mm hex wrench to remove the entire mirror assemble and wiring from the body. Repeat on the other side.
Find someplace confortable to work.
Remove the torx bolt and bushing and seperate the base bracket.
Disassembling the wire connector isn't difficult with the right tools.
First you'll need to note which color wire is which hole. This doesn't matter for standard lights, but it does matter if you have LEDs (current only flows one way through a diode). Either way, it's good to put it back the same way you found it.
Next, you'll need a small hook. I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend the tip of a paper clip.
Looking into the connector, you'll see two rectangular holes. Insert your hook into the holes and pull up on the red tab. You may need to alternate holes so it comes out straight. Place it to the side.
Look into the connector. On one side, you'll see a locking tab. In a cut-away side view, it looks something like this (black is part of the connector, gray is the pin).
Using a small rigid tool, seperate/spread the tab from the pin. I used a small slotted screwdriver for eye glasses. Pull down on the wire and remove the pin from the connector. Repeat for the other wire.
Insert the appropriate extension on the end of the mirror stalk, feeding the wires through the hole. The extensions are not labeled, but when you have the correct one, the wire channel will run on the side with the mirror (facing the rear of the bike).
Replace the cover and tighten with a 6mm hex wrench.
Reconnect the base bracket, feeding the wire through the hole. Reinsert the bushing and torx bolt.
Tighten it most of the way, but leave it a little loose.
To reassemble the connector, push the pins back through the bottom until they click. Then push the red part back down the top.
Repeat the extension installation process for the other side.
When complete, reattach the mirrors to the Spyder by feeding the connectors back through the body and reattaching the base bracket with a 5mm hex wrench.
Wind the wires through the retaining hooks. Reconnect the connectors.
Reconnect the instrument panel, align the bottom with the dash, and tilt it back into place. Reset your clock.
Align the mirror stalks where you want the and tighten them down.
The whole process took about an hour.
Enjoy the view!
Feed a small slotted screwdriver through the hole in the top of the body and behind the instrument panel. Push down and tilt the panel forward.
Grab it with the tips of your fingers so it doesn't fall back into place. Do the same thing on the other side of the instrument panel. It should now come free and you can tilt it all the way out. Disconnect it from the rear and place it to the side.
Locate the turn signal wires (see red arrows). Disconnect the connectors and unwind the wires from the hooks.
Use a 5mm hex wrench to remove the entire mirror assemble and wiring from the body. Repeat on the other side.
Find someplace confortable to work.
Remove the torx bolt and bushing and seperate the base bracket.
Disassembling the wire connector isn't difficult with the right tools.
First you'll need to note which color wire is which hole. This doesn't matter for standard lights, but it does matter if you have LEDs (current only flows one way through a diode). Either way, it's good to put it back the same way you found it.
Next, you'll need a small hook. I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend the tip of a paper clip.
Looking into the connector, you'll see two rectangular holes. Insert your hook into the holes and pull up on the red tab. You may need to alternate holes so it comes out straight. Place it to the side.
Look into the connector. On one side, you'll see a locking tab. In a cut-away side view, it looks something like this (black is part of the connector, gray is the pin).
Using a small rigid tool, seperate/spread the tab from the pin. I used a small slotted screwdriver for eye glasses. Pull down on the wire and remove the pin from the connector. Repeat for the other wire.
Insert the appropriate extension on the end of the mirror stalk, feeding the wires through the hole. The extensions are not labeled, but when you have the correct one, the wire channel will run on the side with the mirror (facing the rear of the bike).
Replace the cover and tighten with a 6mm hex wrench.
Reconnect the base bracket, feeding the wire through the hole. Reinsert the bushing and torx bolt.
Tighten it most of the way, but leave it a little loose.
To reassemble the connector, push the pins back through the bottom until they click. Then push the red part back down the top.
Repeat the extension installation process for the other side.
When complete, reattach the mirrors to the Spyder by feeding the connectors back through the body and reattaching the base bracket with a 5mm hex wrench.
Wind the wires through the retaining hooks. Reconnect the connectors.
Reconnect the instrument panel, align the bottom with the dash, and tilt it back into place. Reset your clock.
Align the mirror stalks where you want the and tighten them down.
The whole process took about an hour.
Enjoy the view!
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