daveinva
New member
Ask a friend to standby to help.
1. Open seat.
2. Find ball socket on hydraulic lifting arm at the forward seat. With a flathead screwdriver or needlenose pliers, pull the metal binder clip off the hydraulic arm. This will allow you to easily pop the arm off the ball socket.
3. Holding the seat up (but NOT lifting all the way up), disconnect the passenger weight sensor. It is connected by one tab at the Spyder-- depress tab, disconnect sensor.
4. Unscrew the one torx screw at the bottom rear of the Spyder underneath the back rear panel. (Note: this only works for those of us WITHOUT the BRP backrest)
5. Gently pull the back rear panel off by depressing the four tabs (two each side) to pop out the panel. If you use an ESI/NMN center taillight, the panel will be connected by the wire; gently place the panel atop the rear fender. With the panel removed this will give you clearance to open the seat all the way up.
6. Ask your friend over to help. Open the seat all the way up and have your friend hold the seat open.
7. There are three hex bolts (one silver, two gold) at the rear of the seat holding the hinge assembly to the bike. Unscrew those three hex bolts and remove seat.
... and, that's it.
Now, ask me why I'm writing this in 2011... :joke:
Fine, I'll tell you: in installing my new Ultimate Seat, I *didn't know* about the clip in step #2. So instead I tried to remove the screw and nut holding the ball socket into place while under the seat. That didn't work, I just ended up bending (and eventually, breaking) the little tab clips that hold the bracket onto the seat this way. (I mailed the bracket back to Ultimate Seats with my old seat, I sure hope they still send me back the core charge refund :sour
.
Then, failing that, I tried to remove the three hex bolts at the hinge assembly *without* taking the seat off. The rear bolt comes out easily once you have the rear top panel off, but the other too are nearly impossible to unscrew seeing as you have to reach under the seat with the wrench. They eventually DO come off-- after 20 minutes of swearing, scraping, and bloody gouging of fingers.
Lastly, when installing the new seat, if you don't have an extra pair of hands, it's very simple to bend the hinge screw and space bushing. Or at least, it was easy for ME to do it. I then spent an hour trying to hammer the screw and bushing back into a straight line in order to reassemble the seat-- I eventually gave up last night, and reattacked the problem this morning, successfully thank goodness.
All told, without instructions, I managed to take what should be an EXTRAORDINARILY easy ten minute job and turn it into a 3 hour nightmare of blood, skin and swear words. :gaah:
Moral of the story: don't be me. :joke:
1. Open seat.
2. Find ball socket on hydraulic lifting arm at the forward seat. With a flathead screwdriver or needlenose pliers, pull the metal binder clip off the hydraulic arm. This will allow you to easily pop the arm off the ball socket.
3. Holding the seat up (but NOT lifting all the way up), disconnect the passenger weight sensor. It is connected by one tab at the Spyder-- depress tab, disconnect sensor.
4. Unscrew the one torx screw at the bottom rear of the Spyder underneath the back rear panel. (Note: this only works for those of us WITHOUT the BRP backrest)
5. Gently pull the back rear panel off by depressing the four tabs (two each side) to pop out the panel. If you use an ESI/NMN center taillight, the panel will be connected by the wire; gently place the panel atop the rear fender. With the panel removed this will give you clearance to open the seat all the way up.
6. Ask your friend over to help. Open the seat all the way up and have your friend hold the seat open.
7. There are three hex bolts (one silver, two gold) at the rear of the seat holding the hinge assembly to the bike. Unscrew those three hex bolts and remove seat.
... and, that's it.
Now, ask me why I'm writing this in 2011... :joke:
Fine, I'll tell you: in installing my new Ultimate Seat, I *didn't know* about the clip in step #2. So instead I tried to remove the screw and nut holding the ball socket into place while under the seat. That didn't work, I just ended up bending (and eventually, breaking) the little tab clips that hold the bracket onto the seat this way. (I mailed the bracket back to Ultimate Seats with my old seat, I sure hope they still send me back the core charge refund :sour
.Then, failing that, I tried to remove the three hex bolts at the hinge assembly *without* taking the seat off. The rear bolt comes out easily once you have the rear top panel off, but the other too are nearly impossible to unscrew seeing as you have to reach under the seat with the wrench. They eventually DO come off-- after 20 minutes of swearing, scraping, and bloody gouging of fingers.
Lastly, when installing the new seat, if you don't have an extra pair of hands, it's very simple to bend the hinge screw and space bushing. Or at least, it was easy for ME to do it. I then spent an hour trying to hammer the screw and bushing back into a straight line in order to reassemble the seat-- I eventually gave up last night, and reattacked the problem this morning, successfully thank goodness.
All told, without instructions, I managed to take what should be an EXTRAORDINARILY easy ten minute job and turn it into a 3 hour nightmare of blood, skin and swear words. :gaah:
Moral of the story: don't be me. :joke:
. Thanks for the info though. Sorry it was such a mess for you!
