How to Activate Cruise Control on Base RS

[billrob71]

When i was installing my BRP passenger back rest, I saw what I believe is the radio unit up inside the rear fender on the right side. I looked and the part number is 710003552 but it says that it's "not available" and doesn't list a price for it either

Ive had mine all apart in the back and the wiring harnes I there but nothing else, I need the destructions for what the kit comes with I have not found a speaker harness up front but maybe it comes with the kit otherwise I gotta find the connections in the front and the front harness in the ST parts list

 

[Bob Denman]

View attachment 90351
I decided to try a stronger spring. Since I had made the hole a slightly larger diameter I figured a ball point spring may work. Cut it about 3/8" and installed. Cruise now comes on. Sometimes I have to wiggle the switch a little so I know I am on the low side for spring pressure.

The better news. I have been off the pain meds for 24 hours so I took it for a test drive on a street that is never busy. It works perfect! Slide it over to "on", push down to set. LCD changes from "Cruise on" to "Cruise set". Push up, the bike speeds up about one mph. Push down, it slows one mph. Tap the brakes and the LCD goes from "set" to "on" and the bike slows. Push down again and the bike sets at the new speed.

:congrats: :clap: :2thumbs:

 

[Craniac]

The complete right hand switch housing new is part number 710003921 and sells for $301.85 with free shipping

I think you could buy this switch then take it apart. Take your non-cruise switch apart and swap the new-working cruise switch for the dummy switch and the cruise would work. Just the little black part shown in the photos, held down by three torx screws.

If you could find a used right hand control switch it could even be a cheaper way to get cruise.

All you would need is the black plastic rocker switch held down by three screws.

Make sure the switch is in the off position when you take the three screws out. If it is in the on position you will loose something (probably a ball bearing and spring) out the back of the switch. Easy enough to reinstall if you can find the pieces. But why take the chance?

 

[Craniac]

Ive had mine all apart in the back and the wiring harnes I there but nothing else, I need the destructions for what the kit comes with I have not found a speaker harness up front but maybe it comes with the kit otherwise I gotta find the connections in the front and the front harness in the ST parts list

I started a new thread with a couple pics of the installation manual. The entire parts list is included.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nstall-Instruction-Manual&p=829795#post829795

 

[Bob Denman]

Is there a source for these switches among the cycle salvage yards?
(Any RT switch from 2010 and on would work... :thumbup

 

[ARCTIC]

Is there a source for these switches among the cycle salvage yards?
(Any RT switch from 2010 and on would work... :thumbup

Wonder if they could determine the switch manufacturer and buy a handful of them?

 

[Bob Denman]

Are there any telltale markings on the insides of the housings? :dontknow:

(This is just so COOL ... cruise control; at a very reduced price! :thumbup

 

[Craniac]

I wasn't looking for a manufacturer while I was in there. But I don't remember any logos or words. I do remember the date of manufacture "circles". But that is all.


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[ARCTIC]

Are there any telltale markings on the insides of the housings? :dontknow:

(This is just so COOL ... cruise control; at a very reduced price! :thumbup

I agree. This doesn't even benefit me and I'm interested in helping:roflblack:

 

[Bob Denman]

(Me either; my RT Limited already has it... Just like your ST Limited)

 

[Craniac]

Cut the dummy switch down. I think it will work.


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[Bob Denman]

...Waiting for the confirmation...
:bbq::bbq::bbq:

 

[MtlBen]

This reminds me of my last car: a new 2006 Dodge Charger R/T.

Chrysler did not have auto headlight option available in 2006. When it became available in 2007, I checked what parts I needed, and it was only the switch's plastic knob that had an "A" printed on it and on which the back was molded a bit differently to allow the switch to go one notch further.

I just "dremelled" the back of my 2006 knob and Voilà ! Auto headlight. It just pissed me off that Chrysler purposefully prevented me from using something that was already built into the car, with the hardware that I had already paid for.

...Ben...

 

[Craniac]

It just pissed me off that Chrysler purposefully prevented me from using something that was already built into the car, with the hardware that I had already paid for.

...Ben...

One of the dealers I asked about adding a cruise to my bike told me that it would be expensive. It would be cheaper to "trade up". If I had traded my bike in for a more expensive Spyder and later found out the cruise was already on the bike. I would not have been happy.

How many customers opted for the more expensive "Limited" models just to get Cruise?

 

[ARCTIC]

One of the dealers I asked about adding a cruise to my bike told me that it would be expensive. It would be cheaper to "trade up". If I had traded my bike in for a more expensive Spyder and later found out the cruise was already on the bike. I would not have been happy.

How many customers opted for the more expensive "Limited" models just to get Cruise?

I opted for the limited because of the cruise and the radio. After I got it home I discovered that the saddlebags are pretty handy too.

 

[BonesDT]

I opted for the limited because of the cruise and the radio. After I got it home I discovered that the saddlebags are pretty handy too.

There's a spot on the side of the seat that if you Dremel a little bit, saddle bags will appear on each side.


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[ARCTIC]

There's a spot on the side of the seat that if you Dremel a little bit, saddle bags will appear on each side.


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:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::cheers::cheers:

Damn..... guess I should have gotten a RS and turned it into a RT :roflblack: Let me know when you find how to enable the 3rd cylinder and turn it into a 1330

 

[Craniac]

View attachment 90369
Cut the dummy switch down. I think it will work.


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Took the bike for a test ride. The cut down switch did not work. The switch could not rock far enough to engage cruise. Went home and removed the face plate.
Then went for a forty mile ride. Cruise worked perfect. It holds the speed going up hill and downhill. Needless to say I am very happy with the mod.

 

[BonesDT]

Took the bike for a test ride. The cut down switch did not work. The switch could not rock far enough to engage cruise. Went home and removed the face plate.
Then went for a forty mile ride. Cruise worked perfect. It holds the speed going up hill and downhill. Needless to say I am very happy with the mod.

I cut my blank down to use as a switch just like yours. You also have to cut the inside overhang to allow it to fully engage. Only problem now is, since it's only one bolt in the middle, the "switch" rotates in a circle.

I did not use a spring for the left hole. Just a solid plastic shaft with a rounded end cut to an exact length (just short of being flush) and it reliably holds down the ON button:



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[Craniac]

If mine quits working, I might follow your lead.

I have been toying with ideas for a custom made switch. It works in my brain. The problem would be making it work in real life. You just need a way to push and hold one button, and momentary contact on the other two. The momentary contact is simple. Holding the "on" button down is the harder part. Push too hard and you could destroy the silicon pad.

I did grind away quite a bit of the back of the blank. Not quite enough. I didn't like how far out it stood. I was afraid something like a coat sleeve could accidentally catch it and tear it apart. I need to look at a factory switch to see how BRP did it.