I just did this modification this weekend. It works great! I do need to come up with a better pin for the cruise activation shaft, but it works for now. Thanks for the info. Why BRP doesn't do this on the standard F3 is a mystery to me. But it really is quite a simple modification.
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How to Activate Cruise Control on Base RS
- Thread starter BonesDT
- Start date
STSScreaminDemon
New member
Cruise for everyone!!
Just got a used 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SM5 and really love it; consequently joined the forum.
I thought it had cruise because the pictures shows the instrument panel as Cruise OFF; but evidently, it's optional on the SM5 vs the SE5.
Anyway, really glad I found this thread. I found it when searching for a used RH Housing Switch that had the cruise control button by using the part number 710003574. This part number does not even show under the SM5 parts diagrams; had to go to the SE5 BTW.
So I followed the instructions from 2014 by BonesDT...thank you for sharing! Instructions were easy to follow and the cruise works great. I too used the cut down pen springs and BB's method. See my pic for dummy switch with springs and my Spyder where I bought it. As mentioned previously, the spring that pushes the cruise ON button needs to be fairly strong or it won't stay on.
Can't wait to get back on the road with my Spyder. If anyone lives in South Florida, give me a shout and let's go riding! It's the best time of year right now.
Just got a used 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SM5 and really love it; consequently joined the forum.
I thought it had cruise because the pictures shows the instrument panel as Cruise OFF; but evidently, it's optional on the SM5 vs the SE5.
Anyway, really glad I found this thread. I found it when searching for a used RH Housing Switch that had the cruise control button by using the part number 710003574. This part number does not even show under the SM5 parts diagrams; had to go to the SE5 BTW.
So I followed the instructions from 2014 by BonesDT...thank you for sharing! Instructions were easy to follow and the cruise works great. I too used the cut down pen springs and BB's method. See my pic for dummy switch with springs and my Spyder where I bought it. As mentioned previously, the spring that pushes the cruise ON button needs to be fairly strong or it won't stay on.
Can't wait to get back on the road with my Spyder. If anyone lives in South Florida, give me a shout and let's go riding! It's the best time of year right now.
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Michaelscs
Member
I believe it's an ST vs ST-S difference, not a SM5 vs SE5 thing. The ST-S came standard with cruise. The ST does not have cruise. I had a 2014 ST SM5 and it didn't have cruise. My friend had a 2014 ST-S SM5 and it had cruise. Are you sure you have an ST-S? I did the same mod as you to ad cruise to my ST. Worked great!
STSScreaminDemon, if the picture in your post is of your bike, it's an ST. Based on the wheels, frame color, and muffler shield covers.
On the ST-S those things are black.
STSScreaminDemon, if the picture in your post is of your bike, it's an ST. Based on the wheels, frame color, and muffler shield covers.
On the ST-S those things are black.
STSScreaminDemon
New member
Thank you for the replies Possible and Michaelscs. When I was doing my research, I had some confusion as well based on the wheels, frame color, and muffler shield covers. I expected to see the carbon black treatment on those items per this article: https://www.motorcycle.com/manufacturer/2013-canam-spyder-sts-roadster-review-91433.html
But also per that article, the ST does not come in Circuit Yellow Metallic at all. And as mentioned in my previous post, this cruise RH Housing Switch part number does not even show under the ST-S SM5 parts diagrams; had to go to the ST-S SE5 layout. This seems to suggest that it is not standard on the SM5. The sticker on the bike definitely does say ST-S; of course stickers can be purchased and applied so no proof there.
I guess the bottom line for me is, it doesn't really matter since the main difference is just features/optics and the bike looks damn good to me (and now has cruise).
Happy riding gents.
But also per that article, the ST does not come in Circuit Yellow Metallic at all. And as mentioned in my previous post, this cruise RH Housing Switch part number does not even show under the ST-S SM5 parts diagrams; had to go to the ST-S SE5 layout. This seems to suggest that it is not standard on the SM5. The sticker on the bike definitely does say ST-S; of course stickers can be purchased and applied so no proof there.
I guess the bottom line for me is, it doesn't really matter since the main difference is just features/optics and the bike looks damn good to me (and now has cruise).
Happy riding gents.
STSScreaminDemon
New member
Michaelscs
Member
That is curious. Perhaps you have a hybrid!
I think a previous owner did some upgrades. It definitely has ST-S fenders, but it also has yellow upper A-arms. Neither the ST or ST-S had body colored A-arms. It also has 2014 upper side panels. This was a service bulletin upgrade for 2013 models with heat issues. On the other hand, it has a ST handlebar.I do know the 2013 ST-S SM5 had cruise. When I bought my '14 ST SM5 I had also checked out two '13 ST-S SM5's and they both had factory cruise. In any case, I'm glad your enjoying your ST/ST-S and good job on the cruise upgrade!!!
STSScreaminDemon
New member
Thanks Michaelscs, you definitely know your stuff. I noticed the 2014 upper side panels as well, so "hybrid" it is. I really like how those air scoops look so bonus for me.
It's great that the engine loves the high RPM's. That's why I call her the Screamin' Demon. The 998cc's really move the bike even though it's 800+ lbs and I'm 200 lbs myself. I'll share one of my acceleration experiences on another thread that's more appropriate.
It's great that the engine loves the high RPM's. That's why I call her the Screamin' Demon. The 998cc's really move the bike even though it's 800+ lbs and I'm 200 lbs myself. I'll share one of my acceleration experiences on another thread that's more appropriate.
STSScreaminDemon
New member
Reread the thread and it doesn't look like anyone found a switch cover solution other than ordering RH Housing Switch part number 710003574. Unfortunately, the price is up to $440 now so seems a bit much to get a plastic knob. My search on the Internet for a black knob meant for sliding has turned up nothing. I've search for "slider switch", "sliding knob", "sliding switch cover", on and on. Nothing. I think I might be able to make the original cover work like Craniac attempted. Just have to leave enough room between the cover and the switch to allow for the up and down rocking. I'll let everyone know if it works without looking ridiculous. If anyone has made something else work, please share the info. I'm using a small black screw now to give me leverage on the switch and it doesn't look too bad; may have to live with it if nothing else works.
Also to clarify the BB's I used, they were zinc plated .177 caliber (probably standard but decided to mention anyway). That's 4.5mm so I did have to enlarge the holes in the switch but only slightly; just shaved a few tenths of a mm really.
Also to clarify the BB's I used, they were zinc plated .177 caliber (probably standard but decided to mention anyway). That's 4.5mm so I did have to enlarge the holes in the switch but only slightly; just shaved a few tenths of a mm really.
Michaelscs
Member
I was fortunate enough to have a friend that does some machining and he made an almost stock looking switch out of aluminum. That was over 5 years and 5 Spyders ago, so I'm afraid I can't give you any more details.
STSScreaminDemon
New member
So I took the original cover and cut it down along the ridges on the back with a box knife. This is a pic of one side done.
After all four sides were cut down, I added a plastic spacer on the screw to allow room for up and down rocking of the cover. Also, and very important, I beveled the top and bottom edges of the cover so they lay flat whenever I press on the top of the cover (for resume/accel) or the bottom (for set/decel). Pic is not the best focus but you get the idea.
Works great and looks much better than just the screw sticking up. Most people would not even notice it's not factory. Will add final pic once I find the plastic insert to go over the screw head. That thing likes to hide sometimes.
After all four sides were cut down, I added a plastic spacer on the screw to allow room for up and down rocking of the cover. Also, and very important, I beveled the top and bottom edges of the cover so they lay flat whenever I press on the top of the cover (for resume/accel) or the bottom (for set/decel). Pic is not the best focus but you get the idea.
Works great and looks much better than just the screw sticking up. Most people would not even notice it's not factory. Will add final pic once I find the plastic insert to go over the screw head. That thing likes to hide sometimes.
STSScreaminDemon
New member
Well since I started contributing to this thread, the RH Housing Switch part number 710003574 went from $440 to now $540. I think BRP caught on.
Consequently, I'm providing an option. Hopefully more people will discover they already have cruise control with a little effort.
So here's the old blank cover after being cut down
Same cover at night
View from top. The spacer could probably be reduced some but wanted to have reliable up and down action
View from top when pressing accelerate
Consequently, I'm providing an option. Hopefully more people will discover they already have cruise control with a little effort.
So here's the old blank cover after being cut down
Same cover at night
View from top. The spacer could probably be reduced some but wanted to have reliable up and down action
View from top when pressing accelerate
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