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How much electricity is needed to stay charged?

Jackhartjr

Active member
Hi folks, the building I will keep my 2013 RTL in doesn't have electricity yet

I'm thinking about adding a solar panel to maintain the battery.

And rough idea how much it uses just sitting there?
Or maybe asked differently, any idea how much solar energy it would take to maintain the battery?
 
Unless you have a parasitic device, it shouldn't need much solar power to maintain charge. Alternatively, you could remove the battery and put it on trickle charger in garage or somewhere with power if solar option falls thru.
 
I have seen portable solar battery maintainers at Cabelas and Bass Pro Shop. They're available in different capacities and not very expensive. A little research on their web sites should provide you with the information you want. Good luck..... Jim
 
Hi folks, the building I will keep my 2013 RTL in doesn't have electricity yet

I'm thinking about adding a solar panel to maintain the battery.

And rough idea how much it uses just sitting there?
Or maybe asked differently, any idea how much solar energy it would take to maintain the battery?

IMHO taking your battery out is easier and lots less expense than what you thinking about doing. Then you put it on a small battery for an hour or two once a month. .... All the RT spyders have parasitic loss even in 100 % stock configuration ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 

I have two of these that I use during the winter months. I ride year round as I don't own a four wheeled vehicle and my wife isn't always too keen on me taking her car. It would be a major pain in the butt to remove and install the battery in my Spyder or Guzzi repeatedly over the winter so I gave these a shot. They work well, but they WILL NOT charge a low battery, they are strictly a maintainer.
 
Most devices which remain energized with the key off draw about 1 milliamp (0.001), each.

A no load AGM self-discharge is about 2% per month…at cold temperatures.
This is based upon a clean battery case. Crud on the case will allow current flow, post to post and greatly accelerate / augment discharge.

If connected to a Sportster, (through 2006, with carb) this is load with the key off:

Voltage regulator 1 milliamp (0.001 amp)
Speedometer 1 milliamp (0.001 amp)
Tachometer (if equipped) 1 milliamp (0.001 amp)
TSM (non-security models) 1 milliamp (0.001 amp)
TSSM (disarmed) 3 milliamp (0.003 amp)
TSSM (armed) 3 milliamp (0.003 amp)
TSSM (storage mode) 1 milliamp (0.001 amp)
HFSM 1 milliamp (0.001 amp)
Security siren 20 milliamp (0.020 amp): Siren will draw for 2-24 hours from time motorcycle battery is connected and 0.05 milliamperes (0.00005 amp) once siren battery is charged.

I posted a Yuasa link on a Sportster forum, but the link is no longer valid.

The sample battery in that link for discharge rate is an AGM and is 50% discharged in 60 days with a drain equal to the load of a voltage regulator, speedo, tach, and TSSM. With only a regulator, speedo (no tach) and TSM, the load is only ~ 3 milliamps and 50% discharge would be about 120-150 days. For 2014 up Sportsters, with CANBus, there would be additions for BCM, etc.

Without a spec from the Can-AM factory service manual, we could use a moderately equipped auto, such as a Kia Soul spec of 50 milliamps, as the max to be expected (1/2 that more likely).

0.050 amp x 12 volts = 0.6 watt maximum parasitic consumption (0.3 watt more likely)

State of Charge (AGM battery)
12.8+ 100%
12.6 75%
12.3 50%
12.0 25%
11.8 Zero

Bottom line:
A. Best to not go over 30 days without a charge, 60 days maximum
B. The Amazon link by Cobwebs would do the job. A larger one could be detrimental, due to the possibility of an overcharge
C. An unregulated solar panel should be checked for over voltage...perhaps connect a couple days a week and check voltage.

I have AGMs, well past their warranty period, serving well in travel trailers at my ranch.
They are used for LED lighting, water pump, circulation fans (summer) and cell phone recharge, typically 3 days out of 30.
When I arrive and check the voltage, it can be in the low to mid 15 volt range...which is over typical voltage regulator limits of 13.8 to 14.8, even though the 5 watt panels are regulated.
Before I switched to AGM from lead acid, distilled water had to be added at least twice a year. In 2004 I gave a 2001 Jeep to a daughter with a new battery. I put the old lead-acid battery in one of the trailers and used it for 10 years. In almost 20 years, I have only replaced one solar panel...but not the solar panel's fault that cattle like to chew on things; including wiring, screen tents, Nylon window screens, etc.

May be more than you wanted to read, but some of the info may be helpful.
 
Unless you have a parasitic device, it shouldn't need much solar power to maintain charge. Alternatively, you could remove the battery and put it on trickle charger in garage or somewhere with power if solar option falls thru.
:agree: Except avoid trickle charger:lecturef_smilie: find a maintainer :bbq: There is fair amount difference & less likely to kill/overcharge battery. Solar charging is good too however less sun available northern hemisphere this time of year, may not get best results :dontknow:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ttery-charge-maintainer&p=1554426#post1554426
 
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Thanks for the excellent advice!
I THOUGHT I had read that there was a lot of parasitic draw, apparently not as much as I thought.
Much thanks!
 
We use a 5W Battery Tender Solar Charger to maintain the deep cycle battery used to run a 12000# winch on a car hauler trailer. Does an excellent job and the panel isn't enormous.
 
A 5 watt is what I use on automotive batteries.
Think they were $79, each.

I started out with a 2 watt (appropriate for M/C battery)

01 Wrangler at ranch 15 Dec 2001.jpg

When cattle killed it, switched to 5 watt and mounted it higher

5-front.jpg

10-front.jpg
 
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