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How hard is Rear shock replacement on 2017 RTS SE6?
- Thread starter bobfeeney
- Start date
opcorn:
Snoking1127
Well-known member
For those that do their own maintenance and mod installations, removing tupperware and replacing it is a way of life with a Spyder. I use a little 1/4" 4V electric screwdriver and have two types of push pin pullers. Magic mirrors are a nice addition when working on the front tupperware. There are lots of Youtubes on doing just about anything one wants to DIY.
I don't find this task fun like many other things I enjoy wrenching on the Spyders - but I don't find it "difficult" either. But then I work on them as a hobby gig. You won't reach the the top bolt/nut without removing the panels though.
Best I can remember without having the Spyder sitting in front of me...
1) Take Mirrors off.
2) Take front upper panels off.
3) Take long upper side panels off.
4) Disconnect the Swingarm limit switch on the left side.
5) Remove top Shock Nut - I use long extensions - fished through all the stuff in the way to reach the top bolt. I use a ratchet and long extensions on both sides - this would be easier with an extra set of hands - but I usually don't have any available.
6) Remove bottom Shock Nut.
7) Jack up the back of the Spyder - I use my jack on the center rail as far back as possible - usually have the front tires on ramps/blocked. Trick here is to find the sweet spot where there is no load on the shock in either direction and the shock bolt pulls out easily.
8) Re-installing the top nut is a bit of a contortionist act - but I lay on the ground below the Spyder and reach way up to get the nut started. I find this easier when the bottom of the shock oil not bolted up yet so you can wiggle/move the shock to get your hand up in there better.
9) Reverse the steps.
Best I can remember without having the Spyder sitting in front of me...
1) Take Mirrors off.
2) Take front upper panels off.
3) Take long upper side panels off.
4) Disconnect the Swingarm limit switch on the left side.
5) Remove top Shock Nut - I use long extensions - fished through all the stuff in the way to reach the top bolt. I use a ratchet and long extensions on both sides - this would be easier with an extra set of hands - but I usually don't have any available.
6) Remove bottom Shock Nut.
7) Jack up the back of the Spyder - I use my jack on the center rail as far back as possible - usually have the front tires on ramps/blocked. Trick here is to find the sweet spot where there is no load on the shock in either direction and the shock bolt pulls out easily.
8) Re-installing the top nut is a bit of a contortionist act - but I lay on the ground below the Spyder and reach way up to get the nut started. I find this easier when the bottom of the shock oil not bolted up yet so you can wiggle/move the shock to get your hand up in there better.
9) Reverse the steps.
Last edited:
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