• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

How do I tie down the Spyder RT-S when hauling it in my cargo trailer?

Gary1951

New member
How do I properly tie down the Spyder RT-S when hauling it in my cargo trailer? I would use ratcheting straps.

Gary
 
:agree::agree: You can add wheel chocks on each wheels. Towing speed? 55 mph? 65 mph? 70 mph? ?????
:yes: The right answer is SAFEST SPEED:yes::yes:
 
Strap each wheel individually, but there are three things that are very important..........


1. Do not go through the rear sprocket
2. Stay away from the valve stems
3. Slip a soft cloth between the strap and rim.

Happy trails !!!!!!!! :thumbup:
 
Tie down Spyder

The owners manual states as others have pointed out use the wheels. I have logged 16000+ miles using this method. For my trailer I do it somewhat differently. I attach the front wheel straps to the rear of the trailer and the rear wheel strap to the trailer front. This way I have two straps preventing the Spyder from moving forward instead of a single strap. It has been my experience that things tend to move forward on the trailer rather than backwards. Whichever tie down method you use be careful that the rear strap gets through the wheel only and not the wheel and drive belt pully. Ratchet straps can apply a lot of force and could damage the pully.
 
Two Straps

The last two years I have only used two straps to tie down my sp:spyder2:yder when hauling, it in the RV. When working as a delivery man for a rental store, you would always want to have a long pull on the tie down. If your trailer isn't twice the length of the load, you should take the forward strap to the back of the load:spyder2: and the back straps to the front of the load:ani29::spyder2:. This way the tie down looks like the tie down is much longer than it is.

With the load being pulled back with the front straps at a good sharp angle, the Angle will keep the load from shifting sideways. If you just take the straps straight across the load:spyder2: can move side to side as you go down the road.

My tie down has my straps crossed on both sides of the :spyder2: in the RV garage. I will also be doing the same way with the :spyder2: in the trailer.
 
Strap each wheel individually, but there are three things that are very important..........


1. Do not go through the rear sprocket
2. Stay away from the valve stems
3. Slip a soft cloth between the strap and rim.

Happy trails !!!!!!!! :thumbup:

:agree: Excellent points made by Randy.

tie down.jpg

Above is the 2013 RT owners guide instruction on how to do it.

For the front wheels I use method 1. One strap for each wheel. Attach these two first. The rear is one strap and I tighten it until the rear suspension squats a couple inches.
 
:agree: Excellent points made by Randy.

View attachment 58618

Above is the 2013 RT owners guide instruction on how to do it.

For the front wheels I use method 1. One strap for each wheel. Attach these two first. The rear is one strap and I tighten it until the rear suspension squats a couple inches.
I use one (padded) soft-tie in the back, and two straps, crossing the straps and tying to opposite sides. The rear end does not move around that way, and the ties don't need to be as tight.
 
Back
Top